232 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER .  September  4,  1902. 
ties  from  other  sources  roots  may  be  numerous,  but  there  will  be 
little  soil  adhering  to  them  ;  therefore  give  a  little  extra  atten¬ 
tion  in  planting  these.  Spread  out  the  roots  on  small  mounds  of 
soil,  covering  with  fine  material,  and  pressing  firmly.  A  good 
watering  in  the  first  instance  is  generally  necessary  in  order  to 
settle  the  soil  about  the  roots,  giving  further  supplies  as  re¬ 
quired  until  the  plants  are  well  established.  Cut  off'  all  runners 
immediately  they  appear,  which  they  probably  will  do  on  strong 
plants  lifted  and  inserted  forthwith  from  the  garden. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES.— EARLY  FORCED  VINES  IN  POT'S.— For  afford¬ 
ing  a  supply  of  new  ripe  Grapes  in  late  March,  or  early  in  and 
through  April,  these  are  in  some  respects  better  than  planted 
out  Vines,  which,  unless  in  inside  borders  and  light,  airy,  well 
heated  structures,  are  not  always  satisfactory.  Besides,  the 
strain  upon  very  early  forced  Vines  is  so  considerable  that 
planted  out  ones  soon  give  indications  of  enfeeblement  when 
.started  several  years  consecutively,  so-  that  it  is  found  better 
in  practice  to  secure  stout  well  matured  canes  in  pots,  and  after 
cropping  them  throw  the  Vines  away,  new  ones  being  provided 
annually  to  take  their  place.  Those-  for  starting  in  November 
will  now  have  the  wood  brown  and  hard,  the  buds  perfected, 
and  the  foliage  sufficiently  matured  if  not  off,  for  the  removal  of 
the  laterals  and  shortening  the  canes  to  from  6ft  to  8ft,  accord¬ 
ing  to  the  vigour,  trellis  to  be  occupied  and  the  position  of  the 
plump  buds.  Whilst  the  cuts  are  dry  it  is  advisable  to  dress 
them  with  styptic,  patent  knotting,  or  best  French  polish  to 
prevent  bleeding.  Keep  the  Vines  rather  dry  at  the  roots,  and 
in  a  cool  airy  house.  Where  the  Vines  have  to  be  bought  they 
are  best  seen  about-  now,  orders  being  placed  so  as  to  secure 
stout,  well-ripened  canes  of  the  most  suitable  varieties,  which 
we  find  are  Black  Hamburghs  and  Foster’s  Seedling. 
EARLIEST  FORGED  HOUSE. — Where  care  has  been  taken 
to  preserve  the  principal  foliage  by  cleanly  culture,  and  a 
judicious  encouragement  of  the  laterals  after  the  fruit  was  cut 
to  prevent  premature  ripening  of  the  principal  leaves,  the  early 
forced  Vines  will  now  be  in  a  condition  to  have  the  laterals 
reduced,  also  the  bearing  shoots,  which  will  tend  to  induce  rest 
and  admit  of  early  final  pruning.  This  may  be  performed  on 
early  forced  Vines  before  the  leaves  are  all  down,  as  the  wood 
being  brown  and  hard,  the  leaves,  or  some  of  them,  turning 
yellow,  they  will  not  bleed  nor  start  the  buds  provided  the  house 
is  kept  dry,  fully  ventilated,  and  cold.  The  pruning  will  cause 
the  Vines  to  go  more  quickly  and  thoroughly  to  rest,  but  it  will 
have  the  opposite  effect  on  unripe  ones  and  where  the  atmo¬ 
spheric  conditions  favour  growth.  If  the  Vines  are  in  good 
condition  they  will  afford  bunches  quite  large  enough  if  pruned 
to  a  couple  of  buds  from  the  base,  but  when  they  are  weak  from 
overcropping  or  a  long  course  of  forcing,  the  spur  shoots  may  be 
left  a  little  longer  to  secure  larger  bunches.  When  this  method 
is  adopted  shoots  should  be  taken  from  as  near  thfi  base  as  pos¬ 
sible  as  well  as  the  bearing,  and  not  be  allowed  to  carry  fruit, 
but  be  stopped  at  the  sixth  good  leaf,  the  laterals  to  one  and 
subsequently  as  produced.  Such  shoots  are  sure  to  form  good 
buds,  as  the  extra,  foliage  tends  to  invigorate  the  Vines  and 
support  the  fruit  on  the  other  shoot,  which  can  be  cut  away 
when  the  fruit  is  removed  in  favour  of  that  retained  for  fruiting 
the  following  season.  This  alternate  system  of  fruiting  necessi¬ 
tates  the  shoots  being  kept  wide  apart  for  development,  and 
exposed  to  light  and  air.  If  the  Vines  are  grown  on  the  usual 
extension  system,  it  will  be  necessary  to-  cut  to  plump  buds  on 
firm  ripe  wood,  being  guided  by  the  space  at  command,  for  there 
must  not  be  overcrowding.  It  is  important  that  the  house  be 
thoroughly  cleansed.  Any  weakly  Vines,  or  those  in  an  unsatis¬ 
factory  state,  may  be' improved  by  removing  the  soil  down  to 
the  roots  and  from  amongst  them,  substituting  fresh  loam,  with 
an  admixture  of  one-sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  a  tenth  of 
“nuts”  charcoal,  a  twentieth  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  fortieth 
of  crushed  half-inch  bones,  with  a  sprinkling  of  some  approved 
fertiliser.  Lift  any  roots  available  for  the-  purpose,  laying 
them  out  upon  the  fresh  compost,  and  cover  3  or  4  inches 
deep.  This  is  best  done  before  the  fall  of  the  leaf 
It  is  a  mistake  to  allow  Vines  when  at  rest  to  become  dust- 
dry  at  the  root.  Comparative  dryness  is  desirable,  yet 
great  injury  is  done  by  allowing  the  border  to  become  dried  to 
the  extent  of  cracking  and  severing  the  fibres.  The  outside 
border  should  have  a  covering  of  some  kind  to  protect  the  roots 
from  the  heavy  autumn  rains,  which  reduce  the  temperature 
considerably.  Glass  lights  are  preferable,  as  they  throw  off 
heavy  rains,  whilst  allowing  the  sun  to  penetrate  the  soil.  Some 
persons,  however,  are  obliged  to  do  without  such  aids,  being 
content  to  apply  a  covering  of  leaves  and  litter  after  cold 
weather  sets  in  to  prevent  the  soil  freezing,  which  is  an  absolute 
necessity  in  early  forcing. 
SI  CCESSION  HOUSES. — Midseason  Vines  have  the-  fruit 
ripe  or  ripening,  and  will  need  a  free  circulation  of  air,  especi¬ 
ally  in  the  early  part  of  fine  days,  as  the  night  dews  are  heavy, 
and  the  condensation  of  moisture  on  the  berries  takes  place 
rapidly  indoors  if  the  atmosphere  rises  considerably  before  air 
is  admitted.  A  little  air  constantly  is  a  good  thing,  but  it  must 
be  increased  early  on  fine  mornings  and  a  free  circulation  allowed 
whenever  the  weather  is  favourable.  Moderate  air  moisture  is 
essential  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage  and  the  sound  keeping  of 
the  berries,  but  a  close  stagnant,  atmosphere  soon  causes  the 
Grapes  to  spot  and  decay.  The  laterals  should  be  kept  from 
interfering  with  the  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  principal 
leaves,  otherwise  a  good  spread  of  healthy  foliage  over  black 
Grapes  is  one  of  the  best  safeguards  against  their  losing  colour. 
White  Grapes  also  do-  not  become  brown  so-  soon  when  not 
exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  as  they  do  when  the  foliage 
is  thin.  Where  the  Grapes  have  been  cut  the  laterals  may  be 
reduced,  also  the  long  bearing  shoots  cut  back  to  two  or  three 
leaves  above  tjie  pruning  buds'  This  will  facilitate  cleansing 
the  foliage  of  red  spider  and  other  pests,  and  assist  in  plumping 
the  basal  buds  as  well  as  the  ripening  of  the  wood  by  the 
increased  amount  of  light. 
LATE  GRAPES. — Where  the  Vines  were  started  in  good 
time  the  Grapes  are  well  advanced  in  ripening.  Keep  the 
laterals  well  thinned,  and  thereby  admit  as  much,  air  as  possible 
to  ensure  the  finishing  of  the  crop,  not  by  large  reductions  at 
a  time,  but  by  frequent  pinchings.  Maintain  an  artificial  tempe¬ 
rature  of  70deg  to  75deg,  falling  5deg  to  lOdeg  during  the  night, 
increasing  to  80deg,  85deg,  or  SOdeg  during  the  day,  accompanied 
with  a  circulation  of  air  constantly,  and  free  under  favourable 
atmospheric  conditions.  Where  the  Grapes  are  only  beginning  to 
colour,  somewhat  sharp  firing  will  be  necessary  to  finish  them 
properly  before  the  days  are  too  short  and  cold  to  admit  of  free 
ventilation,  it  being  possible  to  do  more  in  the  next  four  or  six 
weeks’  time  than  in  twice  the  time  later  on.  With  the  Grapes 
well  advanced  in  colouring  and  ripening,  the  atmospheric 
moisture  should  be  reduced  ;  those  only  colouring  should  have  a 
moderate  amount  of  atmospheric  moisture  to  assist  their  swelling, 
not  neglecting  to  supply  water  to  the  roots,  and  if  need  be  top- 
dressings  of  fertiliser  of  a  substantial  and  not  forcing  nature 
as  required. 
YOUNG  VINES. — Those  that  have  made  a  strong  growth 
and  are  late  in  ripening  should  be  assisted  with  fire  heat,  con¬ 
tinuing  it  until  the  wood  is  ripe,  accompanied  with  free  top  and 
bottom  ventilation.  Discourage  any  further  growth  by  the  re¬ 
moval  of  the  laterals  as  they  appear,  and  withhold  water  from  the 
roots,  only  the  soil  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  too  dry,  and  if 
the  roots  have  the  run  of  outside  borders,  some  spare  lights  placed 
over  the  border,  so  as  to  throw  off  the  wet,  will  be  very  beneficial. 
If  the  autumn  be  dry  the  border  is  better  exposed,  but  heavy 
rains  are  better  thrown  off  when  the  wood  does  not  ripen 
kindly. 
Meteorological  Observations  at  Chiswick. 
Taken  in  the  Royal  Horticultural  Society’s  Gardens  at  Chis¬ 
wick,  height  above  sea  level  24  feet. 
Date. 
Temperature  of  the 
Air. 
Temperature  of 
the  Soil. 
At  9  A.M. 
© 
1902. 
August. 
Il 
o  > 
At  9  A.M. 
Day. 
Night 
c 
‘3 
tf 
At 
1-ft. 
deep. 
At 
2-ft. 
deep. 
At 
4-ft. 
deep. 
U  m 
„  3  03 
£  ©£j 
5 
Dry 
Bulb. 
Wet 
Bulb. 
A3 
CO 
© 
S 
-A3 
03 
© 
£ 
o 
0)  ° 
Es 
Sunday  ...24 
s.w. 
deg. 
62-4 
deg. 
590 
deg. 
70-0 
deg. 
59-0 
Ins. 
0  03 
deg. 
63  0 
deg. 
610 
deg. 
58-1 
deg. 
56-9 
Monday  ...25 
w.s.w. 
62-1 
57-0 
64-2 
50  0 
— 
62-8 
6T2 
58-4 
42-3 
Tuesday  ...26 
N.E. 
627 
55-7 
70-2 
477 
— 
62-2 
61'2 
58-4 
40-3 
Wed’sday  27 
E.S.E. 
56-6 
55-8 
710 
49-3 
002 
61-2 
6T0 
58-3 
410 
Thursday  28 
E.S.E. 
62-9 
58-9 
76-2 
48-2 
— 
610 
60-8 
58-4 
39-5 
Friday  ...29 
E.S.E. 
69-7 
61-7 
78-3 
53-3 
— 
61  2 
60-6 
58-4 
45-6 
Saturday  30 
N.E. 
60-1 
56-5 
63-7 
56-8 
0-03 
62-0 
60  8 
58-3 
472 
Means  ... 
62'4 
57-8 
70-5 
52.0 
Total. 
008 
619 
60-9 
58-3 
44  7 
Very  little  rain  has  fallen  during  the  week,  while  the  weather  has 
become  brighter  and  warmer. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
Barr  and  Sons,  King  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  W.C. — 
1,  Daffodils  ;  2 ,  Bulbs  for  Autumn  Planting. 
R.  H.  Bath,  Ltd.,  The  Floral  Farms.  Wisbech. — Bulbs,  Boses,  etc.,  for 
Autumn  Planting. 
Geo.  Bunyard  and  Co.,  Royal  Nurseries.  Maidstone. — Fruit  Trees. 
William  Logan  and  Co.,  Seedsmen.  Bulb  Merchants,  and  Florists,  High 
Road,  Chiswick. — Bulbs. 
Louis  Paillet,  Vallee  de  Chatenav.  Chatenay  (Seine),  near  Paris. — 
?  Special  Trade  List  of  Pceonies,  Roses,  dc. 
1  Pinehurst  Nurseries.  Pineliurst,  N.C.,  U.S.A. — American  Seeds. 
|  William  Sydenham,  Tamworth. — 1,  Boses;  2,  Violas  and  Rock  Plants. 
