September  li,  1902.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
255 
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Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. — The  temperature  should  be  maintained  at 
65deg  by  night,  and  70deg  to  75deg  by  day,  with  a  rise  to  85deg 
or  90deg  from  sun  heat.  Remove  unhealthy  leaves  and  old 
growths,  and  training  the  others  as  may  be  necessary.  Employ 
the  syringe  sparingly,  only  damping  the  foliage  on  bright  days, 
so  that  it  may  become  dry  before  night.  Damping  will  require 
to  be  done  in  the  morning  and  again  in  the  afternoon.  Pot  seed¬ 
lings  as  they  become  fit,  and  keep  them  near  the  glass  to  insure 
sturdy  growth,  pinching  out  the  growing  point  of  those  required 
for  covering  low  trellises  at  the  second  rough  leaf,  others  train 
with  a  single  stem,  securing  to  a  small  stick,  rubbing  off  the 
laterals  to  the  extent  of  the  stem  required  to  reach  the  trellis. 
Be  sparing  with  moisture  to  plants  in  pits  and  frames,  maintain¬ 
ing  the  temperature  by  linings  renovated  as  required,  closing 
early,  and  employing  a  covering  over  the  lights  on  cold  nights. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES.  —  EARLY  FORCED 
HOUSES.— The  leaves  being  off,  or  nearly  so,  complete  rest 
should  be  aimed  at  by  keeping  the  ventilators  open  constantly, 
and  if  the  roof-lights  be  moveable  they  may  be  withdrawn  for  a 
time.  This  prevents  undue  excitement  of  the  buds,  and  has  an 
invigorating  tendency,  as  the  trees  get  thoroughly  cleansed  of 
dirt,  red  spider  and  thrips,  and  frosts  prove  destructive  of  brown 
scale,  while  the  borders  become  thoroughly  moistened  by  the 
autumn  rains.  If  the  roof  lights  cannot  be  removed  see  that 
there  is  no  deficiency  of  water  at  the  roots  of  the  trees,  for  though 
the  impression  prevails  that  dryness  at  the  roots  accelerates 
ripening  of  the  wood,  it  is  fatal  to  the  proper  formation  of  the 
buds,  and  often  gives  them  a  check,  causing  them  to  fall  later 
on.  The  soil  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry  at  any 
time,  but  a  much  lessened  supply  of  water  will  suffice  when  at 
rest  than  during  growth.  When  the  leaves  have  fallen  the  trees 
may  be  pruned.  Only  the  strong  growths  that  have  not  the 
points  well  matured  need  be  cut  back.  In  all  cases  be  careful 
to  shorten  to  a  wood  bud,  not  being  deceived  by  a 
double  or  triple  bud,  as  these  are  all  sometimes  blossom  buds, 
especially  on  trees  of  a  floriferous  habit,  induced  through  a  some¬ 
what  stunted  grow’th.  Where  ordinary  attention  has  been  given 
to  disbudding,  laying  in  no  more  wood  than  is  necessary  for  the 
succeeding  year’s  fruiting  and  for  the  extension  of  the  trees, 
also  removing  fruited  and  other  necessary  parts  after  the  fruit 
has  been  gathered,  very  little  pruning  will  be  required. 
Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  and  if  the  trees  have  been  infested 
with  red  or  other  insect  pests  dress  them  with  an  insecticide, 
as  many,  especially  red  spider,  will  secrete  in  the  rough 
portions  of  the  bark  and  on  the  woodwork,  applying  the  dressings 
with  a  brush.  If  the  trees  have  been  badly  infested  repeat  the 
application  before  they  are  secured  to  the  trellis.  Remove  the 
mulching  or  loose  surface  soil,  and  supply  fresh  loam,  having  a 
handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser  sprinkled  over  the  surface. 
This  will  be  washed  in  either  by  rains  or  watering,  and  sustain 
the  trees  at  blossoming  time  and  the  early  stages  of  the  fruit 
swelling.  Partial  lifting  of  weakly  trees  will  be  necessary,  and 
should  be  done  before  the  leaves  have  fallen.  In  the  case  of  trees 
that  do  not  ripen  wood  well,  the  roots  should  be  carefully  lifted 
and  relaid  in  fresh  soil  near  the  surface.  If  the  drainage  be 
defective  it  should  be  rectified,  and  where  the  trees  are  altogether 
unsatisfactory  lift  bodily  and  replant  in  properly  prepared 
borders. 
SUCCESSIONAL  HOUSES.— In  these,  where  the  crops  were 
ripened  in  June,  the  leaves  will  soon  be  cast,  and  the  trees  and 
houses  should  be  treated  similarly  to  those  earliest  forced.  Trees 
that  ripened  their  crops  in  July  and  August  will  now’  have  the 
buds  plumped,  and  the  wood  being  ripe,  the  roof  lights  may,  if 
moveable,  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  leaves  give  indication  of 
falling,  or  towards  the  close  of  the  month.  If  the  wood  does 
not  ripen  well  keep  the  house  rather  close  by  day  when  there 
is  sun,  and  open  the  ventilators  fully  at  night.  Any  w’eakly 
trees  that  do  not  plump  the  buds  may  be  assisted  with  liquid 
manure.  Trees  from  which  the  fruit  has  recently  been  gathered 
should  not  be  neglected  for  removing  the  bearing  wood  of  the 
current  season,  ventilating  freely,  watering  inside  borders,  also 
outside  ones  as  may  be  necessary,  and  occasionally  syringing  the 
trees  and  applying  an  insecticide,  as  insects  must  not  be  allowed 
to  obtain  and  retain  a  hold  on  the  trees. 
LATE  HOUSES. — Trees  swelling  their  fruit  will  need  the 
borders  moist  and  mulched,  and  those  with  the  roots  in  outside 
borders  must  not  be  neglected  if  dry  weather  prevail,  and  if 
carrying  heavy  crops  liquid  manure  may  be  given  until  the  fruit 
commences  to  soften.  When  all  the  fruit  has  been  gathered 
remove  the  shoots,  not  being  extensions,  that  have  carried  the 
cropland  if  the  wood  is  not  in  a  satisfactory  condition  as  to 
ripening,  gentle  fire  heat,  with  a  circulation  of  air,  will  be  advis¬ 
able,  especially  in  the  case  of  late  varieties.  The  midseason 
kinds  will  ripen  the  wood  if  the  season  be  favourable,  but  if 
cold  and  wet  the  trees  are  benefited  by  gentle  warmth  and  a  free 
circulation  of  air.  This  is  necessary  in  cold  localities,  especially 
with  the  very  late  varieties. 
STRAWBERRIES  IN  POTS.- — The  plants  from  runners 
potted  in  July  are  making  good  progress,  the  earliest  having  the 
crowns  sufficiently  plumped  for  the  detection  of  those  that  w’ill 
not  be  available  for  early  forcing.  Those  for  this  purpose  should 
be  separated  from  the  rest  and  given  sufficient  space  for  the 
foliage  in  the  most  favourable  position,  such  as  a  sunny  sheltered 
one,  for  maturing  the  growths.  The  others  also  must  have  the 
pots  wide  enough  apart  tO'  allow  of  the  sun  and  air  having  free 
access  to  the  foliage.  The  crowns  in  some  cases  are  numerous, 
and  should  be  reduced  to  the  central  one  where  large  fruits  are 
desired,  not  deferring  it  until  they  have  attained  to  a  consider¬ 
able  size,  but  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  they  can  be  detected,  and 
removed  sideways  with  a.  bluntly  pointed  piece  of  hardwood 
stick.  This  will  concentrate  the  vigour  in  the  main  crown,  and 
will  afford  strong  flower  spikes,  and  then  by  selecting  the  largest 
and  best  formed  flow’ers,  and  carefully  fertilising  them  at  the 
proper  time,  a  crop  of  large  shapely  fruits  will  be  insured.  Any 
late  runners  may  yet  be  potted,  and  with  good  attention  they 
wrill  be  serviceable  for  late  w’Ork  in  5-inch  pots,  and  may  afford 
fine  fruits  and  collectively  as  full  a  crop  as  those  in  larger  pots. 
Worms  and  weeds  are  troublesome,  also  runners.  Lime  w’ater 
wall  expel  worms,  and  weeds  and  runners  can  be  promptly 
removed. — St.  Albans. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
TOMATOES! — Where  it  is  necessary  to  move  Tomato  plants 
growing  under  glass  by  the  end  of  the  month,  in  order  to  make 
room  for  other  plants,  every  endeavour  must  be  made  to  colour 
the  fruits  as  much  as  possible.  If  growing  in  pots  they  may  be 
moved  bodily  to  a  warmer  structure,  and  allowed  to  finish  on  the 
plants,  gradually  reducing  the  growth  and  shortening  back  the 
leaves.  Less  water  will  be  required  than  when  the  plants  were 
in  full  growth.  Afford  adequate  moisture,  however,  to  plants  in 
structures  where'  they  are  still  in  full  growth  and  setting  fruit. 
Fire  heat  and  plenty  of  ventilation  are  both  essential  to  Tomatoes 
under  glass  now.  Young  plants  growing  on  for  winter  and  early 
spring  fruiting  must  have  a  position  near  the  glass,  as  if  the 
grow’th  is  otherwise  than  sturdy  the  plants  will  not  be  satisfac¬ 
tory.  With  regard  to  outdoor  plants,  further  profitable  exten¬ 
sion  of  the  growth  is  now  out  of  the  question,  consequently  it 
may  be  stopped,  and  any  practical  aid  to  furthering  the  ripening 
adopted.  Fully  expose  the  fruit  to  plenty  of  sun  and  light,  and 
keep  the  plants  dry.  This  may  be  effected  by  placing  frame 
lights  in  front  of  the  plants,  so  as  to  utilise  and  retain  the  heat 
longer  than  is  possible  without  them.  From  time  to  time  gather 
the  forwardest  and  best  coloured  fruits. 
POTATOES. — The  digging  of  Potatoes  may  be  general  now, 
especially  in  view  of  the  great  probability  of  disease  spreading 
owing  to  the  protracted  periods  of  wet  weather  experienced 
recently.  It  is  not  necessary  that  Potatoes  remain  in  the  ground 
until  fully  ripe  and  the  shaws  have  died  down.  When  the  latter 
show  indications  of  changing  colour  in  the  least  the  tubers  may 
be  removed  as  soon  as  convenient.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  off 
the  tops  of  each  row  before  lifting,  leaving  enough  stem  to 
indicate  the  precise  whereabouts  of  each  root.  Should  the  tops  be 
tainted  at  all  with  disease  burn  them  at  once.  Never  allow  them 
to  lie  about.  In  lifting  spread  the  tubers  on  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  and  remove  immediately  tubers  touched  with  disease.  It 
is  not  desirable  to  dig  up  more  tubers  than  can  be  removed  in 
one  day  unless  the  weather  is  exceptionally  fine.  Collect  the 
various  sizes  into  separate  baskets,  hampers,  or  bags,  and  convey 
them  under  cover.  Spread  in  heaps  on  a  dry  floor,  and  exclude 
light  with  dry,  clean  straw  or  mats.  The  size  of  the  heaps  is 
immaterial  so  long  as  the  Potatoes  are  stored  dry.  Should 
there  not  be  sufficient  room  in  shed,  outhouse,  or  cellar  under 
favourable  conditions  for  keeping  the  tubers,  the  next  best  thing 
is  to  clamp  them  outside,  forming  fair  sized  ridges  on  well- 
drained  ground,  covering  the  tubers  well  with  straw,  over  which 
lay  a  thick  covering  of  soil.  To  allow  of  moisture  escaping  from 
the  heap  insert  a  narrow  drain  pipe,  which  may  protrude  above 
the  covering  of  the  pie. 
CABBAGES. — The  plants  from  sowings  made  several  weeks 
ago  ought  now  to  be  in  admirable  condition  for  final  planting. 
The  largest  and  strongest  will,  no  doubt,  be  found  amongst  those 
which  have  been  pricked  out  to  strengthen  those  possessing  good 
clusters  of  fibrous  roots,  but  good  plants  may  also  be  obtained 
from  the  seed  beds,  especially  if  thin  sowing  was  the  rule,  or 
thinning  of  the  seedlings  early  carried  out.  Plant  moderately 
thickly  in  rows,  which  may  be  2ft  apart.  The  plants  if  placed  a 
foot  apart  will  allow  of  every  other  one  being  removed. 
