October  9,  1902. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
345 
who  introduced  Mr.  R.  Pinnington  to  give  his  lecture,  entitled 
“  Seasonable  Hints.”  Mr.  Pinnington,  who  spoke  entirely  with¬ 
out  notes,  gave  a  capital  object  lesson  on  the  right  and  wrong 
system  of  fruit  tree  pruning,  also  the  evils  resulting  from  deep 
planting  and  the  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots  in  early  autumn 
and  spring,  stating  cases  of  failure  which  were  alone  attributable 
to  the  want  of  root-pruning.  Useful  advice  was  tendered  in  the 
matter  of  storing  and  preparing  Pears  for  exhibition,  and  espe¬ 
cially  recommended  the  cordon  principle  of  growing.  Dealing 
with  Roses,  he  advised  amateurs  to  go  over  the  trees  and  to 
remove  all  their  useless  shoots  at  the  present  time,  as  it  tended 
to  assist  the  growths  left.  Liliums  he  advised  being  purchased 
as  early  as  possible,  potted  in  a  good  sound  loam,  leaf  mould, 
and  coarse  silver  sand,  the  pots  to  be  well  drained,  filled  three 
parts  full,  plunged  up  to  the  rims  in  ashes  in  frames,  and  sheltered 
from  severe  frosts.  By  this  means  scarcely  any  water  would  be 
required  until  growth  commenced,  when  top-dressing  would  be 
necessary. 
Cordon  Gooseberries. 
He  was  most  severe  on  the  use  of  too  much  manure  being 
mixed  in  the  bulb  compost,  preferring  to  give  liquid  stimulants 
when  root  action  was  good,  and  condemned  the  use  of  too  large 
pots  for  single  Hyacinth  bulbs.  Mr.  A.  W.  Ardron  spoke  in 
high  terms  of  the  lecture,  and  Mr.  Cangley  seconded,  Mr.  Pin- 
nington  afterwards  answering  several  questions. 
CORDON  GOOSEBERRIES. 
Gooseberries  may  be  grown  as  standards,  espaliers,  wall- 
trained,  or  bush  specimens;  but  there  is  no  form  by  which 
finer  fruit  is  obtainable  than  the  single  cordon.  Gooseberry 
cordons  can  be  grown  6ft  to  8ft  long,  and  have  the  whole  length 
of  the  shoot  covered  with  fruit.  It  is  doubtful  if  there  is  any 
kind  of  fruit-growing  by  which  so  much  can  be  secured  from  a 
given  space,  unless  it  be  cordon  trees  of  some  other  fruit.  Mr. 
Molyneux  once  estimated  in  these  pages  that  an  acre  of  ground 
planted  with  Gooseberries  on  this  system  would  yield  £135,  and 
this  not  one  year  in  three  or  four,  but  three  years  out  of  every 
four,  and  a  fair  crop  the  fourth.  Cordons  are  usually  1ft  to  2ft 
long  when  bought  ;  they  can  be  trained  horizontally  or  erect. 
East  and  west  walls  are  the  best  for  them,  especially  the 
latter,  as  in  this  aspect  the  sun  does  not  shine  upon  them  when 
the  frost  is  on  the  bloom,  and  early  fruit  can  be  obtained. 
Cordons  may  also  be  planted  on  wire  trellises  running  east  and 
west,  where  they  will  be  found  to  grow  and  fruit  well.  They  may 
be  planted  9in  to  1ft  or  more  apart.  The  ground  should  be 
previously  well  enriched  with  basic  slag  or  farmyard  manure. 
There  is  no  fear  of  their  running  to  wood ;  the  stronger  the 
wood  the  better  the  fruit.  When  Gooseberries  have  been  in 
bearing  a  few  years  they  are  much  benefited  by  having  an  inch, 
or  even  2in  of  rich  soil  placed  over  their  roots  in  place  of  the  old 
soil,  which  may  be  removed.  Ripe  Gooseberries  may  be  enjoyed 
from  the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  September  by  cultivating 
early  sorts  like  Golden  Drop,  Early  Green  Hairy,  and  Wilmot’s 
Early  Red  on  a  south-west  wall ;  and  late  sorts  like  Ironmonger 
and  Warrington  Red  on  a  north  wall.  j 
Fruit  Forcing. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES:  EARLIEST  HOUSE.— 
The  trees  are  now  leafless,  and  should  be  overhauled  for  pruning, 
dressing,  and  readjustment  of  the  growths.  'Where  due  regard 
has  been  paid  to  disbudding,  preventing  overcrowding,  and 
removing  the-  useless  growths  after  the  fruits  were  gathered, 
very  little  pruning  will  now  be  required.  Weakly  and  un¬ 
promising  branches,  however,  may  often  be  advantageously  cut 
out  in  favour  of  sturdy,  short-jointed  growths,  and  unduly  long 
shoots  be  shortened  so  as  to  originate  vigorous  ones  from  them 
at  the  proper  place  for  covering  the  trellis  evenly  with  bearing 
wood.  The  house  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  woodwork  with, 
carbolic  soap,  water,  and  a  brush,  glass  with  clear  water,  and 
the  walls  limewashed,  with  a,  handful  of  sulphur  to  a  pailful,  the 
sulphur  being  first  formed  into  a  paste  with  skim  milk.  The 
trees  should  also  be  washed  with  an  insecticide,  those  advertised 
being  excellent  for  the  purpose,  or  paraffin  emulsion,  ^lb  to  three 
gallons  of  water,  adding  loz  of  sulphide  of  potassium  (liver  of 
sulphur)  as  a.  fungicide,  applying  with  a  brush,  and  taking  care 
not  to  dislocate  the  buds.  Likewise  the  border  needs  attention, 
removing  the  mulching  or  loose  surface  soil,  pointing  over  very 
lightly,  and  supplying  fresh  loam,  but  not  covering  the  roots 
more  than  2in.  About  a  quart  of  some  apprqved  fertiliser,  such 
as  those  advertised  for  fruit  trees,  may  be  mixed  with  a  barrow¬ 
load  of  loam,  to  which  a  fifth  of  well  rotted  manure  has  been 
added,  and  the  manurial  elements  will  get  diffused  through  the 
soil  by  rains  or  watering,  and  be  available  as  food  when  the 
trees  start  into  growth.  The  roof  lights  may  remain  off  until 
late  November  or  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  frost  and  snow 
sometimes  interfering  with  their  replacement. 
SUCCESSION  HOUSES.— The  foliage  in  these  is  quite 
green,  being  later  in  being  shed  than  in  hot  seasons.  The 
growths,  however,  are  firm,  and  /the  buds  quite  prominent 
enough  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  Too  much  air  cannot  be 
admitted,  but  it  is  necessary  to  reduce  the  ventilation  on  cold 
nights,  or  close  the  house  in  case  of  severe  frost,  which  may 
cause  the  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage  and  prejudicially  affect 
the  buds.  Anv  trees  "that  are  unsatisfactory  should  be  root- 
pruned  or  lifted  as  soon  as  the  foliage  is  matured  sufficiently,  or 
wh'en  it  gives  indications  of  falling.  In  the  case  of  young 
trees  making  a  late  growth  it  will  be  advisable  to  form  a  trench 
at  a  distance  from  the  stem  equal  to  almost  one-third  the 
spread  of  the  branches,  detaching  all  roots  down  to  the  drainage, 
leaving  the  trench  open  for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  when  it 
may  be  filled  firmly ;  this  checks  growth  and  contributes  to  the 
maturity  of  the  wood  and  buds.  It  also  encourages  the  formation 
of  fresh'  rootlets,  insuring  a  fibry  formation  of  them,  which  will 
decidedly  benefit  the  setting  and  stoning  of  the  fruit,  as  the  tree 
is  better  nourished  provided  it  is  present  in  the  soil.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry  in  the  part 
undisturbed.  ,  ,  .  .  ,  .  ...  , 
LATE  HOUSES— The  wood  which  has  borne  fruit  may  be 
cut  out  and  thinned  where  too  crowded.  The  structure  may 
be  kept  rather  close  by  day  when  there  is  sun,  throwing  the 
house  open  at  night,  which  will  assist  the  wood  to  ripen  and 
concentrate  the  tree’s  energies  on  the  buds.  In  cold  localities 
a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  in  dull  weather  will  facilitate  the 
ripening  process,  but  it  must  be  accompanied  by  a  free  circulation 
of  air. — St.  Albans. 
HOUSING  OF  RIPE  GRAPES. — Hamburghs  and  all  thin- 
skinned  varieties  of  Grapes  require  frequent  examination  for  the 
removal  of  decayed  berries.  Damp  being  their  great  enemy,  it 
should  be  prevented  by  a  circulation  of  air  constantly,  the 
employment  of  fire  heat  in  daytime,  accompanied  by  free  ventila¬ 
tion,  allowing  the  house  to  cool  before  night,  and  admitting  air 
the  following  morning  sufficiently  early  to  allow  the  atmosphere 
to  heat  gradually,  and  thus  being  warmer  than  the  berries, 
moisture  will  be  deposited  upon  them. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
LIFTING  ROOT  CROPS. — The  prevalence  of  brisk,  dry 
weather  affords  an  excellent  opportunity  for  lifting  and  storing 
the  crop  of  Carrots,  Beetroot,  summer  Turnips,  and  late  Potatoes. 
It  is  important  that  the  roots,  also  Potatoes,  be  thoroughly  dry 
before  storing,  hence  it  is  advisable  that  no  more  be  lifted  in 
one  day  than  can  be  removed  under  cover  by  evening.  As  much 
of  the  tap  root  as  possible  must  be  secured  with  the  Beetroots,  _ 
and  the  tops  should  be  twisted  off  about  2in  above  the  crown, 
which  prevents  bleeding.  The  tops  of  Carrots  niay  be  cut  off 
to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  fleshy  crown,  and  litt<e  or 
