October  16,  1902. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
369 
APPLE,  LORD  DERBY. 
One  of  the  best  culinary  Apples,  and  largely  grown,  in  use 
till  Christinas,  from  the  end  of  October.  The  fruits  are  large  (as 
shown  in  our  illustration)  of  excellent  quality,  and  golden  coloured 
when  perfected;  indeed,  it  is  then  a  fruit  fit  for  dessert.  The 
trees  bear  well  annually,  and  thus  Lord  Derby  is  much  cultivated 
by  market-men.  The  habit  of  growth  is  upright.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  dozen  Apples,  and  may  be  commended  for  general  planting. 
- - - 
Notes  on  Carnations, 
The  love  for  Carnations  is  ever  increasing,  and  they 
seem  destined  to  occupy  as  large  a  share  of  attention  from 
the  public  generally  as  Chrysanthemums  have  for  many 
yeai's.  A  good  deal  of  diversity  of  opinion  exists  as  to 
whether  autumn  or  spring  planting  is  the  better.  My  own 
experience  has  always  been  that  one  has  to  be  guided  by 
circumstances.  In  the  South,  West,  and  Midlands  (except 
in  cold  districts)  planting  early  in  October  answers  admirably 
if  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  but  when  the  layers  are  weak 
and  not  very  well  rooted,  it  is  better  to  leave  them  undis^ 
turbed  till  March.  Again,  where  the  soil  is  very  stiff,  spring 
planting  is  preferable,  so  that  after  adding  manure  and 
burnt  refuse  in  October,  the  soil  may  be  thrown  up  roughly 
to  become  aerated  during  the  winter. 
In  preparing  the  ground  at  the  present  time  soils  of  light 
and  medium  texture  should  be  dug  deeply,  and  have  a 
moderate  dressing  of  well-decayed  manure  incorporated 
with  them.  If  cow  manure  is  used  it  should  have  lain  in  a 
heap  for  at  least  six  months,  and  have  been  turned  a  few 
times.  After  the  surface  has  dried,  apply  a  heavy  dressing 
of  soot,  foi’k  it  in,  mixing  it  as  thoi'oughly  as  possible  with 
the  soil.  The  heavy  soil  should  be  thrown  up  roughly,  and 
if  possible  have  plenty  of  burnt  refuse,  with  a  little  lime 
scattered  on  the  surface. 
When  collections  are  grown  in  the  open  I  like  to  form 
beds,  each  having  five  rows,  these  to  be  18in  apart,  the 
plants  being  set  1ft  asunder.  Then,  with  2ft  alleys  between 
the  beds,  there  is  plenty  of  room  to  attend  to  cultural 
opei’ations  thi'oughout  the  year.  Plant  carefully,  sinking  the 
stems  up  to  the  lower  leaves,  so  that  when  the  soil  is  pressed 
fii’mlv  around  the  stem  each  plant  will  be  held  securely  in 
position.  When  this  is  completed  run  the  hoe  over  the 
surface  of  the  beds.  Thi’oughout  the  autumn  and  winter 
keep  a  sharp  look-out  for  slugs.  If  they  are  found  to  be 
damaging  the  plants,  catch  as  many  as  possible,  and  dress 
the  bed  frequently  with  air-slaked  lime. 
In  spring,  birds  often  do  much  damage  by  eating  the 
leaves,  and  unless  measures  are  taken  to  stop  them  they 
quickly  ruin  hosts  of  plants.  Webbing  the  bed  thickly  witti 
black  cotton  and  hanging  a  few  cheap  mirrors  (which  may 
be  bought  for  a  few  pence)  from  strong  stakes  by  means  of 
string,  are  effectual  ways  of  scai'ing  the  feathered  tribe. 
The  following  vai’ieties  all  produce  large,  handsome 
flowers,  and  have  a  robust  habit  of  growth :  Aline  New¬ 
man,  deep  red ;  Artemus,  scarlet ;  flaked  and  streaked 
lavender ;  Boadicea,  rosy  scarlet ;  Bomba,  salmon  pink  ; 
Bi’odick,  yellow,  flaked  and  marked  with  red  ;  Dervish, 
yellow,  margined  lilac  rose  ;  Due  d’Orleans,  yellow  and 
buff,  very  large  ;  Garville  Gem,  heliotrope  ;  H.  Falkland, 
mellow,  edged  with  biaght  rose  ;  La  Villette,  pink  and 
yellow ;  Mephisto,  a  grand  crimson ;  Mrs.  Eric  Hambi’o, 
white  ;  Mrs.  J.  Douglas,  l'ose ;  Mi’.  Nigel,  yellow-ci’imson 
edge  ;  Queen  of  Scots,  rose-pink  ;  Silver  Strand,  a  gi’ancl 
Avhite  ;  The  Hunter,  an  improved  Mrs.  Reynolds  Hole ; 
Voltaire,  yellow  ground,  edged  and  marked  with  rose  ;  Sir 
Waldie  Griffiths,  crimson;  and  Waterwitch,  blush-white. — 
Devotee. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
Frank  Cant  &  Co.,  Braiswick  Rose  Gardens,  Colchester. — Roses. 
J.  Cheal  and  Sons,  Lowfield  Nurseries,-  Crawley,  Sussex. — Trees  and 
Shrzibs,  Fruits,  Roses,  dc. 
E.  P.  Dixon  &  Sons,  The  Nurseries,  Hull. — Fruit  Trees,  Roses ,  dc. 
F.  C.  Heinemann,  Erfurt,  Germany. — Special  Trade  Offer  of  Novelties. 
Thomas  Rivers  and  Son,  Sawbridgeworth,  Herts. — Fruit,  Trees,  Roses, 
dc. 
Will  Tayler,  Osborn  Nursery,  Hampton,  Middlesex. — 1,  Select  Fruits  ; 
2,  Roses. 
D.  S.  Thomson  &  Sons,  The  Nurseries,  Wimbledon. — Roses,  Fruit 
Trees,  Shrubs ,  Plants. 
WORK  .F°fiTHE  WEEK. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garder, 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES.— Give  all  possible  assistance 
to  trees  l’ipening  their  fruit.  The  clearance  of  any  superfluous 
shoots  permits  access  of  light,  while  leaves  obstructing  sunshine 
and  shading  the  fruits  may  be  drawn  on-  one  side  or  cut  in  two. 
Hang  nets  in  front  of  the  trees  to  prevent  injury  to  the  fruit  from 
birds.  The  nets  may  be  tied  under  each  fruit  so  as  to  form  small 
pockets,  which  will  catch  the  fruits  should  they  prematurely  fall. 
To  obtain  the  highest  flavour  and  quality  in  good  fruit  gather  them 
before  being  quite  ripe,  and  finish  in  the  fruit  room.  'When  the 
trees  have  been  cleared  of  fruit  a  re-arrangement  of  growths  may 
be  made,  as  the  old  bearing  growths  can  be  cut  out,  and  possibly 
some  rather  weak  or  semi-exhausted  branches  may  need  removal. 
After  the  principal  branches  have  been  regulated  the  current 
year’s  young  shoots  may  be  laid  in'  between  them.  Should  red 
spider  be  present  at  all,  previously  give  the  trees  a  thorough 
cleansing  with  the  garden  engine,  though  if  the  attack  is  unusually 
bad  an  insecticide  is  necessary.  The  true  cause,  however,  of  such 
severe  attacks  of  this  pest  will  be  found  to  be  a  dry  border. 
Hence,  give  a  thorough  soaking  with  clear  water.  Afterwards  a 
little  weak  liquid  manure  should  prove  beneficial. 
MORELLO  CHERRIES. — The  crops,  even  from  late  reserved 
trees,  will  now  be  gathered.  It  is,  therefore,  desirable  to  examine 
specimens  on  walls  or  trellises  in  order  to  discard  any  exhausted 
or  worn  out  growths,  and  to  remove  the  old  bearing,  shoots,  re¬ 
laying  the  current  season’s  growths  by  which  they  may  become 
thoroughly  well  ripened.  Young  trees  which  ha.ve  had  a  certain 
amount  of  freedom  of  growth  must  now’  have  it  regulated  and 
equalised,  so  as  to  produce  a  well  balanced  specimen.  Any  trees 
growing  too-  luxuriantly  ought  to  have  a  gentle  check  by  judicious 
root-prixifing  or  lifting  and  replanting.  Red  spider  frequently 
attacks  Cherries  on  walls.  Should  there  be  any'  present  on  the 
foliage  it  is  desirable  to  destroy  it.  Vigorous  syringing,  either 
with  or  without  insecticide,  effects  this.  The  chief  cause  of  insect 
attacks  of  this  character  is  dryness  at  the  roots.  To  avoid  trees 
suffering  from  their  destructive  influences  keep  the  border  moist, 
1-cots  plentiful  and  fibrous,  affording  a  mulching  in  summer  to 
encourage  surface  rooting  and  prevent  rapid  evaporation. 
OUTDOOR  FIGS. — Lay  in  strong  healthy  growths  at  regular 
distances  apart,  or  so  as  to  furnish  the  trees  equally.  Small  and 
useless  spray  may  be  cleared  out  entirely.  Well  ripened  growths 
are  the  most  productive  in  fruiting. 
OUTDOOR  PEACH  AND  NECTARINE  TREES.— The  whole 
of  the  growths  which  have  borne  the  present  season’s  crop  may  be 
cut  out-,  their  place  being  taken  by  the  reserved  growths  of  the 
current  season.  These,  if  too  numerous,  may  be  thinned,  for  it 
is  useless  to  retain  a  number  of  growths  for  which,  however  suit¬ 
able  they  may  be  for  bearing,  no  roo-m  can  be  found  without 
unduly  crowding.  Exhausted  growths  or  branches,  too,  may  be 
removed;  in  fact,  nearly  the  whole-  of  the  pruning  may  be-  carried 
out,  though  no  shortening  of  young  wood  should  be  effected  now. 
After  this-,  the  trees  will  probably  need  re-arranging,  for  which 
purpose  it  may  be  essential  to  loo-s-en  them  entirely  from  the 
wall  or  trellis,  so  as  to  better  distribute  the  branches.  The  main 
object  now-,  is  not.  so  much  to  make  the  trees  perfect-  examples  of 
training,  as  to  ripen  the  wood  thoroughly,  and  to  this  end  the 
autumn  pruning  must  be  mainly  directed,  leaving  the  final  train¬ 
ing  until  spring,  when  a  little  more  pruning  will  be  essential. 
The  soil  about  the  roots  also  must  be  examined,  giving  a  copious 
soaking  where  the  roots  are  found  to  be  ramifying  m  very  dry 
material.  It  is  not  too  late-  to  lift  and  replant  any  trees  which 
are  found  to  be  growing  too  strongly,  and  which  are,  or  likely  to 
be,  fruitless  in  consequence.  Of  course,  yo-ung  and  portable 
trees  can  only  be  dealt  with.  In  common  with  other  wall  trees, 
Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  may  also  be  planted.  Prepare  the 
soil  by  liberally  digging.  Rather  than  add  manure,  introduce 
some  fresh  soil,  which  should  be  of  a  calcareous  character.  Soils 
deficient  in  lime  should  be  improved  by  its  addition,  also  wood- 
ashes.  The  dwarf  fan-trained  are  the  best  for  ordinary  sized 
walls.  Plant  firmly,  but.  only  loosely  secure  the  branches  to  the 
wall  or  trellis,  so  as  to  permit  of  the  soil  and  the  trees  settling 
down  together.  _ 
GENERAL  HINTS  ON  FRUIT  TREE  PLANTING.— The 
season  has  practically  arrived  when  a  commencement  may  be 
made  in  the  important  work  of  planting  fruit  trees  and  bushes. 
Although  the  leaves  may  not  yet  have  all  fallen,  they  are  in  such 
an  advanced  stage  of  ripeness  that  their  presence  need  be  no 
drawback  to  planting  Gooseberries  or  Currants  during  the  present 
month;  also  stone  fruit  trees  desired  to  be  established  against 
walls  or  trellises.  The  planting  of  small  bush  fruit  generally  admits 
of  the  ground  being  liberally  treated  in  the  matter  of  digging  and 
