October  £3,  1902,  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
377 
Lilies  of  the  World. 
( Concluded  fi-om  pac/e  365.) 
Philippine  Islands  Lily. — So  far,  these  islands 
have  only  given  us  one  species  of  Lily,  and  that  one 
is  of  extreme  beauty.  Now  the  country  is  being 
opened  up,  soon  collectors  will  take  to  despoiling 
Nature.  Up-country  we  may  look  for  many  fine  species 
coming  from  this  interesting  group  of  islands.  Philin- 
pinensis  flowers  in  the  way  of  L.  longiflorum  eximium, 
but  more  refined  and  delicate  looking.  The  first  tune 
I  saw  this  fairy-like  Lily  I  measured  it,  and  found  it 
lOin  long.  It  is  a  greenhouse  plant  in  Europe,  but  I 
think  it  could  be  grown  outside  in  South  Africa. 
The  only  Lily  I  have  seen  growing  in  the  gardens 
about  Cape  Town  is  L.  longiflorum  eximium.  It  would 
therefore,  appear  that  amateur  gardeners  have  not  yet 
taken  up  the  culture  of  this  most  delightful  family.  I  will, 
therefore,  name  three  selections,  each  one  containing  different 
Lilies  from  the  other  lists,  with  the  view  of  meeting  the  con¬ 
venience  of  all  as  regards  outlay.  No.  1  selection  is  the  least 
expensive  ;  No.  2  next ;  No.  3  the  highest  priced — while  all 
are  equally  beautiful.  Any  one  of  the  lists  are  a  good 
selection,  and  all  the  lists  put  together  will  make  a  really 
handsome  collection.  I  have  omitted  L.  candidum  from  the 
lists,  as  it  should  be  despatched  from  England  in  August  or 
September ;  not  later,  if  possible,  and  on  arrival  planted  at 
once. 
On  arrival  they  can  be  placed  in  a  box  of  se'mi-moist  earth, 
and  kept  in  the  coolest  place  possible  till  the  weather  cools 
a  little,  and  once  a  week  they  should  be  examined  to  dis¬ 
courage  root  growth,  and  to  see  they  are  not  suffering  in  any 
way  ;  or  they  may  be  planted  in  kerosine  tins,  covered  with 
at  least  4in  of  soil,  and  the  tins  well  drained — the  tins  kept  in 
the  coolest  place  at  command,  and  there  remain  till  the1  flower 
buds  are  formed,  when  the  tins  may  be  placed  on  the  stoeps. 
If  planted  in  pots,  let  the  pots  be  plunged  to  the  rim  in  coal 
ashes  in  a  cool  place,  and  remain  till  in  bud  ;  then  the  pot  in 
which  the  bulb  is  growing  dropped  into  a  larger  pot,  and  then 
placed  on  the  stoep.  The  soil  in  all  cases  should  be  moist, 
but  never  wet,  except  in  the  case  of  the  moisture-loving 
Lilies,  which  should  get  an  increase  of  moisture  when  grow¬ 
ing.  So  treated,  you  can  enjoy  the  Lilies  as  an  ornament  to 
your  house,  and  can  decide  from  their  habit  of  growth  the 
best  place  to  plant  them  out  in  your  garden  when  the  time 
to  plant  out  arrives. 
No.  1  selection  :  L.  auratum  type,  L.  Browni,  L.  canadense 
flavum,  L.  chalcedonicum,  L,  croceum,  L.  davaricum  erectum 
and  incomparable,  L.  longiflorum  robustum,  L.  Martagon 
dalmaticum,  L.  pardalinum  type,  L.  pomponium,  L. 
speciosum  roseum  album  Kraetzeri,  L.  speciosum  rubrum 
Melpomene,  L.  superbum,  L.  testaceum,  L.  tigrinum 
splendens,  L.  elegans  Beauty,  L.  elegans  Van  Houttei. 
No.  2  selection :  L.  auratum  platyphyllum,  L.  auratum 
Virginale,  L.  davaricum  Sappho,  L.  Hansoni,  L.  Humboldti, 
L.  Leichtlini,  L.  Martagon  album,  L.  pardalinum  Bourgsei, 
L.  Parryi,  L.  speciosum  punctatum  album.  L.  speciosum  pur- 
pureum,  L.  tigrinum,  L.  Fortunei  (single  and  double),  L. 
elegans  Batemannse,  L.  elegans  Prince  of  Orange,  L.  elegans 
G.  F.  Wilson,  L.  canadense  rubrum,  L.  elegans  Sunset. 
No.  3  selection :  L.  auratum  pictum,  L.  auratum  rubro- 
vittatum,  L.  Bolanderi,  L.  Columbianum,  L.  giganteum,  L. 
Henryi,  L.  japonicum  odorum,  L.  monadelphum  Szovit- 
zianum,  L.  napalense,  L.  pardalinum  Michauxi,  L.  parvum, 
L.  speciosum  album  Crown  Princess,  L.  speciosum  punc¬ 
tatum,  L.  speciosum  rubrum  multiflorum,  L.  sulphureum,  L. 
elegans  Alice  Wilson,  L.  elegans  robustum,  L.  elegans 
Wallacei. 
The  opening  remarks  in  this  Lily  reading,  with  the  three 
selections  of  Lilies  I  have1  made,  will,  I  think,  be  of  service 
to  those  who  may  take  up  Lily  culture,  whether  as  amateurs 
or  professional  gardeners.  The  selections  and  directions 
represent  the  experience  of  one  of  the  very  earliest  culti¬ 
vators  of  Lilies  since  they  last  same  into  vogue  ;  we  must  not 
say  “fashion,”  that  word  properly  belongs  to  ladies  when 
referring  to  the  latest  fashions  in  bonnets,  &c.  The'  word 
fashionable  may  also  be  applied  to  colours  in  cut  flowers,  as 
they  rank  fairly  as  floral  millinery,  but  to  use  such  terms  to 
our  garden  plants  is  too  shocking. 
From  time  to  time  there  are  changes  in  the  arrangements 
of  gardens,  gardening  being  a  progressive  art,  and  plants 
have  to  be  sought  out  to  meet  all  new  arrangements.  I 
remember  sixty  years  ago  we  had  only  flower  borders,  and 
A  Seedling  Gooseberry. 
these  frequently  within  the  walled 
garden,  where  fruits,  flowers,  and 
vegetables  grew.  The  section  for 
flowers  generally  had  a  broad  grass 
walk,  kept  in  the  best  of  trim,  on 
each  side  a  wide  border  of  flowers 
of  all  kinds,  backed  frequently  by 
espalier  fruit  trees.  Then  came 
the  Crystal  Palace,  at  Sydenham, 
with  its  terraces  and  flower  beds  of 
one  colour  or  several  colours.  The 
effect  of  this  was  the  separation  of 
flowers  from  vegetables.  Lawns 
had  to  be  formed,  and  beds  cut  out 
in  them. 
Following  close  on  this  came 
Nesfield’s  ideas,  which  were  illus¬ 
trated  in  the  gardens  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society,  South  Kensington  ;  very  low  Box 
edgings,  used  in  the  formation  of  the  beds,  and  instead  of 
flowers,  pebbles,  coloured  stones  finely  broken  up,  bricks 
reduced  to  rough  powder,  broken  glass,  and  different 
coloured  substances.  This  held  on  for  a  short  time.  Then 
came  Mr.  William  Robinson’s  denunciation  of  the  whole 
system  of  flower  gardening,  and  he  preached  from  the  house¬ 
tops  hardy  herbaceous  plants.  After  some  fifteen  or  twenty 
years’  pegging  away  on  the  one  text,  people  began  to  think 
there  was  something  in  all  the  noise,  and  this  brought  about  a 
great  revolution.  Carrying  out  reforms  is  generally  done  by 
a  compromise  ;  so  now  we  have  flower  beds,  carpet  beds  that 
vie  with  Paisley  shawls  in  design,  flower  borders  galore,  and, 
as  at  Park  Lane  side1  of  Hyde  Park,  tropical  plants  let  into 
the  grass,  such  as  Palms,  Bananas,  &c.,  &c.,  while  beds  of 
Carnations,  Roses,  &c.,  are  seen  everywhere.  And  in  spring 
beds  full  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Daffodils,  Pansies,  Violas, 
Crocus,  &c.,  &c.  The  Park  Lane  side  of  Hyde  Park  is  a  para¬ 
dise  of  flowers,  when  there  is  sufficient  sun  to  open  them,  and 
enough  heat  to  keep  them  alive.  In  the  Cape  Peninsula  you 
have  twelve  flower  months  in  your  calendar.  Surely  Paradise 
must  have  been  in  this  favoured  land. — Peter  Barr,  V.M.H., 
Cape  Town. 
PINEAPPLES. 
All  young  plants  should  now  be  arranged  so  as  to  obtain  the 
fullest  benefit  of  light  and  air.  As  the  sun  diminishes  a  corre¬ 
sponding  diminution  of  temperature  should  take  place  at  night 
until  it  reaches  the  winter  standard  of  55deg  to  GOdeg  at  night 
and  G5deg  in  the  daytime.  Ventilate  freely  whenever  the 
external  conditions  are  favourable,  paying  particular  attention 
to  watering.  An  inspection  of  the  plants  should  be  made  once  a 
week,  and  whenever  a  plant  needs  water  supply  it  copiously  at 
about  the  same  temperature  as  that  of  the  bed. 
Plants  on  which  fruit  are  now  appearing  will  perfect  them  it 
a  time  when  other  fruits  are  scarce,  and  should  therefore  be 
afforded  a  good  position  in  the  fruiting  house.  Continue  70deg 
as  the  minimum  temperature  in  the  fruiting  house,  though  on 
cold  nights  a  decline  of  5deg  may  be  allowed  and  5deg  more  in 
mild  weather,  7odeg  artificially  by  day,  and  85deg  to  90deg  from 
sun  heat,  closing  the  house  at  80deg,  sprinkling  the  paths  as  may 
be  necessary  when  they  become  dry,  and  on  sunny  afternoons  an 
occasional  syringing  will  be  advantageous,  keeping  the  bottom 
heat  regular  at  85deg  to  90deg. — Practice. 
