440 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  6,  1902. 
should  be  seen  to  and  brought  to  a  close  as  scon  as  possible. 
When  the  leaves  are  all  down  it  will  be  an  advantage  to  remove 
the  roof  lights  and  expose  the  trees  to  the  weather  until  the 
time  of  starting,  or  till  the  buds  commence  swelling.  The  severest 
weather  will  not  injure  tho^e  with  ripened  wood.  Where  the 
roof  lights  are  not  moveable  admit  air  freely  in  all  but  very 
severe  weather,  and  even  then,  if  the  hot-water  pipes  can  be 
emptied  of  the  water  and  kept  so.  and  see  that  there  is  not  any 
deficiency  of  moisture  in  the  borders.  If  the  trees  are  not  lifted 
remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  and  supply  fresh  stiff 
loam,  to  which  has  been  added  some  charred  refuse,  not  more  than 
one-tenth,  and  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal. — St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
SPINACH.  -Thinning  out  the  plants  may  be  continued, 
removing  many  of  those  with  the  largest  leaves,  the  smaller 
plants  wintering  better.  Take  out  weeds  from  among  the  plants, 
also  between  the  rows,  the  soil  being  loosened  with  the  hoe  when 
dry. 
TURNIPS. — The  growth  of  Turnips  sown  in  early  autumn 
has  been  free,  and  the  plants  rapidly  become  crowded,  which 
hinders  the  swelling  of  useful  roots.  The  necessary  reduction  of 
numbers  must  be  carried  out,  weeds  removed,  and  the  soil  lightly 
stirred  among  the  plants. 
CAULIFLOWERS  AND  BROCCOLI.— The  heads  of  these 
now  turning  in  are  liable  to  be  injured  by  frost.  Lift  some  of 
the  plants  and  lay  in  in  damp  soil  in  a  cool  structure,  or  protect 
the  heads  by  breaking  some  large  leaves  over  them. 
ASPARAGIS  BEDS. — The  stems  of  Asparagus  have  all 
withered,  and  should  now  be  cut  down.  Some  growths  are  full 
of  berries  which  easily  fall,  and  the  result  will  in  another  year  be 
a  orop  of  seedling  plants.  These  are  not  desirable  on  permanent 
beds,  so  it  is  best  to  cut  off  these  berried  plants  first,  avoiding 
scattering  the  berries  on  the  soil.  When  the  stems  have  been 
cleared  off,  then  fork  up  the  weeds  and  afterwards  .point  up  the 
surface,  avoiding  injuring  the  crowns  of  the  plants  by  going  too 
deep.  Follow  this  by  spreading  over  the  whole  surface  of  the 
beds  a  mulching  of  short,  decomposed  manure,  and  cover  with  a 
layer  of  clean  soil  from  between  the  beds.  In  order  to  finish  off 
the  beds  clean  and  neat,  cut  down  the  sides  with  a  spade  and 
leave  the  intervening  spaces  level.  The  manure  and  soil  may 
remain  until  spring,  when  some  of  it  may  be  removed. 
CELERY. — Any  rows  of  Celery  that  remain  to  be  earthed 
should  be  dealt  with  in  dry  weather,  choosing  a  period  when 
there  has  been  but  little  rain  for  several  days.  Break  down  the 
soil  and  apply  it  at  once  to  the  plants,  drawing  the  leafstalks 
closely  together  and  working  the  soil  well  round  each  plant. 
Finish  off  the  ridges  in  a  neat  manner. 
BLANCHING  ENDI\  E. — Endive  is  a  useful  salad  on  the 
approach  of  winter,  but  needs  blanching  to  make  it  tender.  One 
of  the  oldest  methods  of  blanching  is  tying  up  the  leaves  about 
two-thirds  of  their  way  up,  so  as  to  well  enclose  the  hearts,  and 
keep  away  the  light  from  them.  It  is  only  desirable  to  blanch  a 
few  plants  at  a  time,  the  exact  number  being  ascertained  by  the 
needs  of  the  establishment.  Besides  tying  up  the  leaves,  there 
are  other  methods  of  blanching.  Two  boards  may  be  placed 
lengthwise  over  the  rows,  forming  a  ridge.  Under  this  the  plants 
will  be  kept  dry,  and,  at  the  same  time,  blanch  for  use.  A 
similar  effect  may  be  produced  by  inverting  pots  over  each  plant, 
the  pots  being  sufficiently  large  to  well  cover  them.  They  must 
be  perfectly  dry  at  the  time,  or  decay  will  set  in.  When  frost 
and  snow  is  likely  to  approach,  take  up  plants  and  place  in 
frames,  the  roots  in  damp  soil.  If  a  dry.  sheltered  border  under 
a  wall  is  available  some  plants  may  be  preserved  there,  covering 
with  boards,  pots,  handglasses,  further  protecting  during  frost 
with  straw  or  mats.  One  of  the  hardiest  Endives  is  the  broad¬ 
leaved  Batavian.  It  is  less  liable  to  decay,  and  does  not  require 
the  special  protection  that  Moss-curled'  and  some  others  do. 
Slates  placed  over  plants  will  also  blanch  them. 
LETTUCE. — All  plants,  whether  full-grown  or  of  seedling 
size,  should  be  retained  as  long  as  possible.  The  large  plants 
may,  if  growing  out  in  the  open,  be  lifted  and  placed  in  frames, 
or  under  the  shelter  of  a  wall.  The  protection  needed  by  Lettuce 
is  not  so  much  .preservation  from  cold  as  from  damp,  which 
causes  the  leaves  to  rot  at.  the  base.  Therefore,  if  moisture  can 
be  prevented  being  deposited  by  some  covering,  and.  at  the*  same 
time,  a  free  circulation  of  air  always  ensured,  the  plants  will  keep 
in  good  condition  for  some  time.  Young  Lettuces,  both  of  Cos 
and  Cabbage  varieties,  often  winter  admirably  under  walls,  espe¬ 
cially  when  they  are  only  of  medium  size. — East  Kent. 
- - 
A  Fruitful  Plum  Tree. 
A  Plum  tree  in  the  ga.rden  of  Mr.  Jay,  of  Southgate,  London, 
bore  a  fine  crop  of  fruit.  Before  this  crop  ripened  the  trde 
bore  a  second  crop,  which  matured  soon  after  the  first  crop  was 
gathered  ;  and  Mr.  Young,  the  gardener,  has  been  supplying 
his  master’s  table  with  dessert  from  this  crop  for  several  weeks. 
The  tree,  which  is  still  in  full  leaf,  has  now  a  third  crop  of 
fruit,  which  has  attained  the  size  of  green  peas, 
*  #  *  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E  C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
BLACK  CURRANTS  AND  BUD-MITE  (W.  M.).— We  should 
have  thought  that  everyone  was  aware  of  the  utter  impossibility 
of  overcoming  such  a  severe  attack  as  yours  is.  The  plants 
should  be  grubbed  up,  root  and  stock,  and  burned.  Write  to 
the  Board  of  Agriculture,  Whitehall,  London,  for  their  pamphlet, 
which  will  give  you  full  information  and  guidance.  This  can  be 
obtained  free  of  charge. 
PROVIDENT  GARDENERS  (H.  C.  W.).— What  we  wrote 
was  that  the  United  Horticultural  Provident  and  Benefit  Society 
originated  at  the  Green  Dragon  Hotel,  in  Bishopsgate  Street, 
but  we  should  have  further  stated  that  the  name  and  present 
address  of  the  secretary  is  Mr.  Wm.  Collins,  9,  Martinda  e  Road, 
Balham,  London,  S.W.,  to  whom  we  have  forwarded  your  letter. 
We  thoroughly  commend  this  society. 
EARLY  POTATO  CULTURE  (J.  J.  G.). — My  employer  wishes 
me  to  take  in  hand  an  experiment  with  early  Potato  culture,  and, 
if  it  succeeds,  will  go  in  extensively  for  it.  We  will  plant  one 
acre  from  boxes,  the  same  as  the  Ayrshire  farmers  do.  Can  you 
give  me  any  details?  Are  the  boxes  of  Potatoes  stood  in  tiers 
in  cattle  sheds?  About  what  length  are  the  sprouts  when  they 
plant  them  out  ?  To  stand  the  boxes  in  tiers  means  that  the 
growth  will  be  blanched,  does  it  not  ?  Does  that  matter?  What 
time  are  the  Potatoes  put  in  boxes  in  the  sheds,  and  what  is 
the  usual  time  for  planting?  Our  field  is  a  sheltered  one,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Bristol  Channel,  an  ideal  field  for  the  purpose.  We 
purpose  planting  Duke  of  York  Potato.  I  have  taken  in  the 
Journal  of  Horticulture  for  a  good  many  years,  and  generally 
look  over  the  page  allotted  to  farm  work,  hence  my  reason  for 
thinking  your  writer  on  farm  work  may  be  able  to  give  me  the 
information  I  ask  for.  Trusting  I  am  not  trespassing  in  any 
way  in  asking  these  questions. 
[The  practice  you  allude  to  as  Ayrshire  is  nearly  a  century 
old,  we  having  seen  it  followed  over  sixty  years  ago  on  the  alluvial 
soils  of  the  Ouse  Valley.  The  seed  Potatoes  are  stood  on  end, 
eyes  upwards,  in  boxes  or  trays  about  2ft  bin  long  and  15in  wide, 
and  2in  to  2Tin  deep,  a  piece  of  wood  being  affixed  in  each  corner 
of  the  box,  about  4iin  high,  so  that  when  the  Potato  sets  are 
placed  in  the  boxes  these  can  be  placed  one  upon  another,  thus* 
allowing  space  for  the  sprouting  and  securing  the  sprouts  of  a 
short,  sturdy,  and  greened  nature.  The  sets  are  thus  set  up 
about  the  middle  of  February,  and  placed  in  any  room,  cottagers 
or  small  holders  having  them  in  the  kitchen  or  other  place  where 
frost  has  not  access,  this  being  all  that  is  necessary,  hence  any 
outbuilding,  or  even  cow-houses,  as  you  mention,  will  answer. 
The  great  point  is  net  to  have  them  in  too  warm  a  place,  so  as 
to  start  the  sets  into  weakly  and  long  sprouts,  but  have  them 
as  stout  as  possible,  and  about  Ain  longer  from  that  to  fin 
at  planting  time.  If  likely  to  be  too  late,  the  boxes  are  covered 
over  so  as  to  ensure  mere  warmth  and  speedier  sprouting.  This 
results  in  blanched,  sprouting,  hence  the  sets  are  generally 
inured  to  the  light,  and  are  kept  in  a  cool  place  if  likely  to  bo 
too  forward,  until  planting  time,  always  having  them  well 
hardened  off  by  keeping  in  cool  quarters,  but  safe  from  frost,  for 
a  time  previous  to  planting.  Planting  is  usually  practised  in 
the  third  or  fourth  week  in  March,  the  rows  being  about  20in 
apart  for  the  first  early  varieties,  such  as  the  Ash-leaf  kinds, 
Sharpe’s  Victor  and  Early  Puritan,  a  foot  distance  being  allowed 
between  the  sets  in  the  rows.  Well  rotted  manure  is  placed 
in  the  rows,  and  the  sets  are  covered  about  5in  deep.  The  plants 
are  hoed  as  soon  as  well  up.  cleanly  culture  being  very  important, 
and  when  about  Tin  high  they  are  earthed  or  moulded  up  with 
hoes,  so  that  the  furrows  are  narrow  and  the  rows  broad1.  The 
crop  is  ready  to  lift  by  the  latter  part  of  June  in  the  district 
named,  and  probably  would  be  somewhat  earlier  in  your  locality, 
it  possibly  being  advisable  to  plant  earlier.  The  great  thing  is 
to  so  plant  as  to  safeguard  as  much  as  possible  from  injury  by 
spring  frosts,  though  oftentimes  the  tops  are  cut  off,  when  plant¬ 
ing  is  deferred,  to  the  third  or  fourth  week  in  March.  The 
varieties  named  are  best  for  first  early  crops,  and  if  you  work 
on  the  plough  system  of  planting  and  earthing  up,  the  rows 
must  be  at  least  Tin  more  apart.  The  variety  you  name  is  a 
second-early,  it,  Duke  of  York,  and  White  Beauty  of  Hebron 
being  good  croppers,  and  would  require  at  least  2Tin  distance 
from  centre  to  centre  of  row.] 
