484 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  20,  1902. 
are  better  covered  with  clean  chopped  straw,  so  as  to  prevent 
their  cracking,  and  to  keep  down  moisture  likely  to  arise  and 
prove  injurious.- — St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
LIFTING  RHUBARB  ROOTS.— Roots  for  forcing  will 
shortly  be  required  to  be  placed  in  heat,  so  that  a  supply  of 
well-coloured  stalks  may  be  obtained  early.  Prior,  however, 
to  introducing  the  clumps  of  roots  into  heat-  it  is  desirable 
to  bring  them  into  complete  rest.  This  is  done  to  some  extent 
by  the  lifting,  but  if  this  is  supplemented  by  the' complete  ex¬ 
posure  of  the  clumps  to  the  weather,  especially  if  frosty,  an 
exceedingly  salutary  check  is  given,  and  when  placed  in  the 
forcing  structure  they  start  away  into  growth  more  quickly 
than  roots  not  so  treated.  Naturally,  early  varieties  of  Rhubarb 
should  be  selected  for  early  use,  as  it  is  obvious  such  roots  will 
start  much  more  readily  into  growth.  Royal  Albert  and  Cham¬ 
pagne  are  good  early  varieties,  but  those  who  may  have  a  stock 
of  roots  of  which  they  do  not  know  the  names  can  always  pick 
out  the  best  for  forcing,  by  reason  of  the  disposition  of  the 
crowns  to  swell  early.  Lift  and  prepare  the  roots  of  a  good 
portable  size.  In  lifting,  work  out  a  trench  all  round  to  the 
depth  of  15in  to  18in.  It  will  then  be  possible  to  undermine 
the  clump,  which,  if  too  large,  may  be  divided.  The  fleshy 
roots  may  be  cut  down  so  as  to  reduce  the  clump  to  a  size  easily 
dealt  with. 
SEAKALE  FOR  FORCING. — The  largest  and  strongest  roots 
with  bold  crowns  are  the  most  desirable  for  forcing.  The  pre¬ 
paration  may  be  made  at  the  present  time,  now  that  the  leaves 
have  decayed  down.  The  roots  grown  for  the  purpose  of  forcing 
may  be  lifted,  then  trim  off  all  the  side  roots,  and  shorten  the 
thick  main  root  to  lOin  or  12in,  if  longer  than  that.  The  roots 
should  be  laid  in  ashes  or  soil  until  required.  The  first  batch 
of  roots  may  be  placed  in  a  dark  structure  where  the  tem¬ 
perature  is  kept  at  about  55deg.  They  are  best  surrounded  with 
soil  kept  moist.  Pots  or  boxes  may  also  be  utilised,  inverting 
similar  receptacles  over  them  so  as  to  exclude  light. 
SEAKALE  ROOTS  FOR  PLANTING.— When  the  smaller 
roots,  or  thongs,  as  they  are  termed,  are  trimmed  off  the  forcing 
roots,  those  of  about  the  size  of  a  small  finger,  and  Gin  in  length, 
should  be  preserved  for  the  purpose  of  planting  in  spring.  It 
is  immaterial  that  these  should  possess  a  crown  or  growing  point, 
but  the  upper  part  of  root  may  be  cut  off  transversely  and  the 
lower  slantingly,  so  as  to  distinguish  the  two.  These  prepared 
roots  may  be  laid  in  soil  or  sand  until  spring,  tyeing  them 
together  in  bundles  of  twenty-five.  The  upper  part  of  root  will, 
in  spring,  form  a  ring  of  growths.  The  weakest  of  these  may  be 
rubbed  off  before  or  after  the  roots  are  planted. 
POTATOES  IN  STORE. — Where  Potatoes  have  not  been 
stored  in  the  best  condition,  it  is  essential  that  the  tubers  be 
looked  over,  and  all  that  have  commenced  to  decay  or  show 
signs  of  disease  ought  to  be  picked  out.  Dry  positions  must 
be  found  for  the  storage  of  the  tubers,  and  light  excluded  by 
a  covering  of  straw.  Bags,  dry  and  sweet,  are  admirable  for 
storing  Potatoes,  as  these  may  be  packed  one  above  the  other 
if  room  is  limited. 
SELECTING  SEED  POTATOES. — If  the  stock  of  seed  from 
the  tubers  in  store  has  to  be  selected,  this  may  be  done  when 
the  sorting  is  done.  Pick  out  the  medium-sized  and  best¬ 
shaped  tubers,  free  from  disease.  Arrange  them  singly  in  layers 
in  boxes,  which  stand  in  a  semi-light  position  in  a  cool  place, 
but  safe  from  frost.  Of  course,  the  whole  of  the  stock  of  seed 
Potatoes,  if  the  quantity  is  large,  cannot  be  stored  in  boxes. 
Except  for  the  tubers  which  it  is  intended  should  be  sprouted 
and  planted  in  this  condition,  the  bulk  may  be  preserved  in 
the  ordinary  way,  but  spreading  them  out  thinly  rather  than 
in  heaps,  and  omitting  covering,  for  under  the  action  of  light 
and  air  the  skins  become  green  and  hardened.  These  tubers 
are  excellent  for  planting  in  rames,  as  they  push  stout  growths 
quite  early  if  assisted  with  a  little  gentle  heat. — East  Kent. 
British  State  Forests. 
The  number  of  State  forests  in  Great  Britain  is  very 
limited,  and  I  presume  there  are  not  many  Crown  lands  that 
could  be  forested  ;  but  if  the  large  landowners  have  not 
already  set  the  example,  they  should  do  so  without  delay. 
I  wish  also  to  ask  whether  much  notice  has  been  taken  by 
the  Government  of  the  letter  vTiich  Sir  Joseph  Hooker 
addressed  in  Octobex-,  1873,  to  the  Colonial  Office  :  “  The 
duty  of  conserving  the  natural  resources  of  the  Colonies  [here 
referring  to  the  destruction  of  forests]  for  the  benefit  of  future 
generations  is  becoming  the  most  pressing  and  arduous  duty 
of  those  entrusted  with  the  government.”  And  what  he 
advised  for  the  Colonies,  has  it  been  acted  upon  at  least 
in  some  degree  at  home?— K. 
*  **  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E  C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
DISEASED  CARNATION  LEAVES  (C.  C.).—  If  you  will 
kindly  comply  with  the  recognised  rule  of  sending  your  name  and 
address,  which  we  will  not  publish,  your  questions  will  be 
considered. 
TRANSPLANTING  SHRUBS  (J.  M.).— All  the  shrubs  you 
name  will  move  safely  at  the  present  time  if  the  work  is  care¬ 
fully  done.  The  positions  should  be  prepared  for  them  before 
the  shrubs  are  dug  up,  and  as  much  soil  should  be  retained  about 
the  roots  as  possible.  Any  rather  large  bruised  or  broken  rc-ots 
should  be  cut  off  with  a  sharp  knife. 
RIPENING  THE  WOOD  OF  PEACHES  AND  NECTA¬ 
RINES  (W.  T.  P.  H.). — If  the  wood  is  now  unripe,  very  little  can 
be  done  this  season,  but  you  may  inci’ease  the  heat  and  admit 
all  the  air  practicable  day  and  night  until  the  leaves  show  indica¬ 
tions  of  falling,  when  the  heat  should  be  turned  off.  If  the  leaves 
have  already  commenced  falling  the  trees  must  not  be  subjected 
to  fire  heat,  but  have  free  ventilation  in  favourable  weather  so 
as  to  induce  as  complete  a  rest  as  possible. 
WINTERING  PETUNIAS  (A.  B.  C.).— We  do  not  recognise 
the  plant  you  were  told  was  a  Carnation.  The  Petunias  should 
be  kept  near  to  the  glass  in  a  house  from  which  frost  is  excluded, 
not  giving  more  water  than  is  sufficient  to  prevent  the  foliage 
from  flagging.  We  should  cut  the  plants  back,  each  shoot  to 
within  a  few  inches  of  its  base,  and  when  tlie  plants  have 
made  fresh  growth  an  inch  or  two  in  length,  shift  them  into  pots 
a  couple  of  inches  larger  in  diameter,  and  by  tying  out  the  plants 
and  supplying  with  liquid  manure  after  the  pots  are  filled  with 
roots,  the  plants  will  grow  rapidly,  and,  if  kept  near  to  the  glass 
and  the  house  well  ventilated  they  will  flower  freely.  The  shoots 
removed  may  be  put  in  as  cuttings,  and  if  kept  moist  they  root 
safely  in  a  greenhouse,  flowering  more  freely  than  plants  from 
g00(J 
INSECTS  ON  APPLE  TREES  (L.  K.  M.).— The  twigs  are 
infested  with  the  black  aphis,  which  may  be  destroyed  with  a 
solution  of  Gishurst  compound,  a  strength  of  3oz  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  applied  with  a  syringe.  A  fluid  ounce  of  paraffin  well 
mixed  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  similarly  applied,  squirting  a 
syringeful  of  the  paraffin  water  alternately  in  the  vessel  and  on 
the  trees,  will  also  destroy  the  insects  and  not  injure  the  wood 
of  the  trees.  The  swelling  of  the  spurs  of  the  Pear  tree  you 
have  sent  are  quite  natural,  but  the  wood  does  not  appear  to 
be  quite  healthy.  Does  your  garden  require  draining?  The 
rusting  and  cracking  of  the  fruit  is  attributable  to  inclement 
weather  when  the  fruit  was  in  a  small  state.  Very  wet  clayey 
soils  and  poor  dry  sandy  soils  also  contribute  to  the  cracking 
of  fruit,  which  does  not  receive  the  support  lxeeessary  for  healthy 
progressive  growth. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS  AFTER  FLOWERING  (Rector).— 
They  may  be  wintered  in  a  cold  pit  or  frame,  cutting  them  down 
as  soon  as-  the  flowers  have  faded.  The  young  shoots  should  be 
taken  off  with  a  small  portion  of  root  stem,  and  may  be  inserted 
singly  in  small  pots,  or  three  around  the  sides  of  a  3in  pot ; 
and  the  pots  being  placed  on  ashes  in  a  cold  frame,  the  cuttings 
will  root  slowly  but  surely,  keeping  them  moist,  affording  slight 
shade  when  the  sun  is  bright,  and  keep  them  rather  close  until 
rooted.  They  should  be  transferred  to  larger  pots  when  the 
cutting  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  taking  out  the  point  of  each 
shoot  when  about  Jin  to  Gin  in  length.  The  old  plants,  if  you 
wish  to  keep  them  another  year,  may  be  turned  out  of  the  pots, 
removing  all  the  old  soil,  cutting  the  roots  back,  and  repot  in 
5in  or  Gin  pots. 
VINES  IN  NARROW  BORDERS  (G.  A.  S.). — You  may  grow 
Grapes  of  good  quality,  though  you  are  only  able  to  make  a 
border  2ft  in  width.  You  will  need  to  put  in  Gin  of  rubble  for 
drainage,  and  over  it  a  layer  of  turves,  grass  side  downwards. 
The  loam  being  of  a  tenacious  nature,  add  to  it  one-sixth  of  old 
mortar  rubbish  and  a  twelfth  part  of  |in  bones,  incorporating 
thoroughly.  The  compost  should  be  applied  in  a  rather  dry 
state  and  made  firm.  As  to  the  cubic  feet  of  soil  to  allow  to 
each  Vine,  that  depends  on  the  Bpace  the  Vines  are  to  occupy. 
Vines  in  pots  with  8ft  of  rod  succeed  in  pots  containing  less 
than  3ft  (cubic)  of  soil ;  but  we  should  make  the  border  as  large 
as  practicable,  allowing  at  least  12ft  to  each  Vine,  and  as  much 
