December  4,  1902. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
529 
introducing  virgin  queens  to  a  colony  in  possession  of  a 
fertile  worker.  Instead  of  getting  rid  of  the  pest  by  this 
means,  it  will  be  found  that  the  virgin  is  generally  dragged 
out  at  the  entrance  dead  in  a  very  short  time  ;  but  this 
invariably  occurs  sooner  or  later. 
The  best  plan,  where  it  can  be  carried  out,  is  to  intro¬ 
duce  a  fertile  queen  on  a  bar  of  her  own  brood,  and  bees 
to  the  stock  in  a  similar  manner  to  uniting.  The  abnormal 
condition  of  things  is  soon  manifest  to  the  bees  accom¬ 
panying  the  fertile  queen,  and  there  is  a  rapid  end  to  the 
fertile  worker’s  ovipositing.  If  the  stock  should  be  weak, 
from  neglect  or  any  other  cause,  and  it  is  not  considered 
advisable  to  re-queen  it,  uniting  should  be  resorted  to. — 
E.  E.,  Sandbach. 
Young  Gardeners’  Domain. 
Pentstemons. 
These  are  amongst  the  few  things  that  have  been  a  success 
during  this  sunless  summer.  The  dull,  cool  atmospheric  con¬ 
ditions  prevailing,  resulting  in  free,  vigorous  growth,  whilst 
rarely  has  there  been  that  absolute  purity  of  colour  that  has 
characterised  the  bloom  this  season.  Hitherto  our  northern 
friends,  having  a  monopoly  of  beneficent  atmospheric  condi¬ 
tions,  have  led  the  way  wherever  they  have  exhibited  these 
charming  flowers;  but,  judging  by  what  has  been  presented  to 
us  by  south-western  growers  (notably  Messrs.  I.  House  and  Sons, 
Bristol),  one  feels  inclined  to  venture  the  query  “  Stands  Scot¬ 
land  where  it  did  ?  ”  so  far  as  the  cultivation  of  the  Pentstemon 
is  concerned. 
October  is  not  a  month  in  which  one  expects  to  find  a  brilliant 
display  of  colour  in  the  garden,  save,  perhaps,  amongst  the 
early  Mums  and  their  more  sombre  brethren,  the  Michaelmas 
Daisies  ;  but  brilliant  hardly  adequately  describes  the  view  pre¬ 
sented  by  the  beds  of  Pentstemons  when  I  visited  Messrs.  House’s 
nurseries  at.  Westbury-on-Trym  during  the  early  part  of  October. 
Many  of  the  best  spikes  of  bloom  had  been  cut  at  the  time  of  my 
visit  for  the  shows,  and  from  plants  cut  down  thus  early  the 
first  batch  of  cuttings  were  being  taken.  These  are  prepared 
in  the  same  way  as  the  typical  bedding  Calceolaria,  but  instead 
of  their  being  inserted  direct  into  soil  in  a  cold  frame,  single 
pots  (60’s)  are  used;  these  are  filled  with  light  sandy  soil,  one 
cutting  being  inserted  in  the  centre  of  each  pot.  These  are  then 
plunged  in  a  cold  frame,  well  watered,  shaded,  and  kept  close 
for  about  six  weeks. 
So  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  rooted,  air  is  gradually  admitted 
in  order  to  ensure  dwarf  stocky  plants;  finally  the  lights  are 
removed  altogether  on  every  available  opportunity,  and  here 
the  plants  remain  until  planting  out  time  in  April.  To  grow 
Pentstemons  really  well  a  bed  or  border  should  be  afforded  them  ; 
if  sheltered  from  the  north  and  east  so  much  the  better,  other¬ 
wise  their  stately  blooms  are  liable  to  be  damaged  by  the  wind. 
Planted  in  bold  groups  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  plants  in  well- 
prepared  stations  along  the  front  row  of  the  shrubbery,  they 
create  a  pleasing  effect,  but  the  choicer  varieties  are  well  deserv¬ 
ing  a  good  position,  either  in  the  mixed  border,  or,  better  still, 
in  isolated  beds. 
A  deeply  dug  and  well  enriched  soil  is  essential  to  their  well¬ 
being;  cow  manure,  owing  to  its  cool  retentive  nature,  suits 
them  admirably,  whilst  fairly  firm  planting,  a  slight  mulch,  to¬ 
gether  with  a  good  supply  of  liquid  manure  during  the  growing 
period,  materially  assists  in  the  development  of  fine  blooms. 
They  bloom  from  early  August  until  “  chill  October,”  and  nothing 
presents  a  more  pleasing  show  than  a  good  bed  filled  with  these 
charming  flowers,  their  light  and  graceful  deportment  anni¬ 
hilating  the  all-prevailing  monotony  that  seems  inseparable  from 
the  autumnal  garden. 
As  with  so  many  of  the  florists’  flowers,  there  appears  to  be 
a  desire  to  unwarrantably  extend  the  number  of  varieties,  but 
a  preponderance  of  dull,  purplish-coloured  varieties  creates  an 
impression  altogether  unfavourable  to  this  beautiful  flower ;  a 
really  fine  exhibit  recently  set  up  at  the  Drill  Hall  was  un¬ 
fortunately  marred  by  a  too  liberal  admission  of  dark  coloured 
varieties.  Whilst  one  would  not  willingly  eliminate  the  darker 
shades  if  growing  a  large  collection  where  only  a  limited  number 
can  be  grown,  they  should  be  discarded  in  favour  of  the  brighter 
shades  of  red  and  pink. 
Amongst  the  newer  continental  varieties  brilliant  colours 
are  more  prevalent,  and  from  personal  observation  during  a  visit 
to  a  really  magnificent  collection  I  selected  the  following  as  the 
cream  of  the  varieties:  Ninon  de  l’Eenclos,  President  Carnot, 
Lady  Brodie,  Melodram,  Froelich,  Talma,  H.  Spencer,  Phryne, 
Negresse,  Wm.  Cuthbertson,  Napoleon  Key,  and  Port  Royal. — 
E.  J.  Love,  E.  Dereham,  Norfolk. 
rigs 
o  woRKjofiTHE  week.. 
3 
xii  li 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES  :  Earliest  Forced  Planted  Out. — To  have  a  supply 
of  ripe  Grapes  in  May  the  Vines  must  be  started  at  the  beginning 
of  December,  nothing  favouring  a  good  start  more  than  a  good 
bed  of  leaves  and  sweetened  stable  litter  placed  on  the  floor  of  the 
house  and  turned  daily.  The  outside  border  should  have  the 
needful  protection  from  cold  rains  and  snow ;  a  covering  of  leaves 
or  bracken  with  litter  on  the  top  so  as  to  throw  off  rain,  will  be 
considerably  warmer  than  if  exposed,  and  in  this  case  covering 
with  fermenting  material  may  be  dispensed  with ;  but  a  covering 
of  fresh  leaves  so  as  to  raise  a  gentle  heat  is  preferable,  especially 
to  those  wholly  outside.  The  inside  border  should  be  brought  into 
a  moist  condition  by  applying  water,  and  in  the  case  of  weakly 
Vines,  liquid  manure.  Avoid  making  the  soil  sodden  by  need¬ 
less  waterings,  as  Vines  require  only  moderate  root  moisture  until 
they  start  into  growth.  Start,  with  a  night  temperature  of 
50deg  in  severe  weather,  55deg  in  mild  weather,  and  65deg  by  day, 
exoept  the  weather  be  severe,  when  55deg  will  suffice,  not  exceed¬ 
ing  those  figures  until  growth  commences.  Maintain  a  genial 
atmosphere  by  syringing  occasionally,  but  avoid  excessive  mois¬ 
ture,  as  it  excites  the  emission  of  aerial  roots  from  the  rods. 
Depress  the  canes  of  young  Vines  to  the  horizontal  line  or  below 
it,  to  ensure  the  regular  breaking  of  the  buds. 
Late  Houses. — Take  every  precaution  against  damp.  Leaky 
roofs  are  a  prolific  cause  of  Grapes  decaying ;  a  single  drop  of  water 
getting  into  a  bunch  of  Grapes  is  sufficient  to  spoil  it.  Though 
the  decay  may  only  be  a  berry,  it  soon  spreads,  and  ruins  the 
whole  bunch,  especially  when  the  faulty  berry  is  in  the  interior, 
so  that  it  escapes  detection  until  the  mischief  is  done.  Remove 
all  leaves  as  they  become  mature,  affording  only  sufficient  fire 
heat  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  40deg  to  45deg,  admitting  air 
on  all  favourable  occasions ;  but  close  the  house  in  damp  weather, 
seeking  to  secure  a  dry,  cool,  equal  temperature.  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  and  Canon  Hall  should  have  a  temperature  of  oOdeg, 
a  genial  warmth  in  the  pipes  constantly,  so  as  to  prevent  the 
deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries;  but  when  the  weather  is 
cold  and  sharp  allow  the  temperaturei  to  fall  5deg,  being  careful 
not  to  allow  the  temperature  to  be  much  accelerated  by  sun  heat 
or  natural  warmth  without  a  free  circulation  cf  air. — St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
FORCING  RHUBARB.— A  batch  of  roots  of  fair  size,  with 
numerous  and  stout  crowns,  should  be  placed  in  a  structure 
where  a  temperature  of  GOdeg  can  be  maintained.  Moisture 
and  heat  combined  seem  to  suit  Rhubarb,  and  enable  it  to  push 
readily  into  growth.  For  early  forcing,  clumps  lifted  several 
weeks  ago  and  exposed  to  the  weather  have  received  the  salutary 
check  to  growth  rendered  necessary  before  a  start  into  fresh 
growth  can  be  made.  The  best  structure  for  forcing  Rhubarb 
is  one  where  semi-darkness  is  ensured,  together  with  a  regular 
temperature  and  humidity.  Other  positions  may  also  be  found, 
such  as  under  stages  or  in  warm  pits.  Except  in  positions  where 
the  air  is  of  a  very  drying  character,  it  is  not  essential,  as  a  rule, 
to  surround  the  roots  with  soil,  but  apply  moisture  freely  by 
giving  applications  of  water  wdienever  the  roots  appear  to  require 
it.  Failing  a  suitable  position  inside  a  shed  or  glass  house, 
Rhubarb  may  be  successfully  forced  in  a  frame  filled  with  manure 
and  leaves.  If  a  hotbed  is  formed  with  a  frame  on  the  top, 
linings  of  fresh  material  will  have  to  be  frequently  applied  in 
order  to  maintain  the  necessary  temperature.  The  moisture  in 
the  soil  and  the  humidity  in'  the  atmosphere  will  usually  be  suffi¬ 
cient  until  actual  growth  is  in  progress  without  applying  water. 
FORCING  SEAKALE. — Strong  Seakale  roots  only  should  be 
selected  for  forcing.  Such  roots  will  have  bold  crowns,  and  the 
produce  is  likely  to  be  substantial.  Pack  the  roots  together  in 
pots  or  boxes  in  good  soil,  which  maintain  moist.  Exclude  light 
entirely  from  the  crowns  so  that  growth  will  be  well  blanched. 
If  there  is  convenience  in  a  suitable  structure  for  placing  the 
roots  together  in  a  bed  of  soil  on  the  floor,  a  large  number  of  roots 
can  be  readily  accommodated,  but  the  supply  must  be  regulated 
by  the  demand.  Water  the  roots  and  soil  as  soon  as  arranged. 
The  temperature  should  not  be  too  high,  so  as  to  avoid  drawing 
up  the  growths  weakly  ;  55deg  to  60deg  is  ample. 
VACANT  GROUND. ^-Early  opportunities  should  be  taken 
to  deal  with  vacant  plots  of  ground.  Assuming  that  a  general 
idea  can  be  formed  as  to  how  the  ground  is  to  be  cropped  the 
following  year,  a  definite  method  may  be  followed  in  the  pre¬ 
paration  of  the  soil.  For  any  and  every  crop  it  is  highly  desir¬ 
able  to  stir  the  soil  deeply,  trenching,  in  fact,  if  the  ground  has 
only  hitherto  been  cultivated  in  a  shallow  manner.  Wherever 
