Deeemler  II  19.2.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
551 
WOKK/0IlTHE  WEEK.  w 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden 
WINTER  PRUNING  OF  FRUIT  TREES— The  winter  season 
affords  the  best  opportunity  for  examining  fruit  trees  in  general 
and  cutting  out  or  shortening  back  superfluous  wood.  The  main 
object  of  pruning  must  be  to  promote  a  fruitful  habit,  and  this 
can  only  be  done  by  well  balancing  the  growth,  and  concentrat¬ 
ing  the  energy  of  the  trees  in  the  production  of  wood,  which  shall 
tend  in  due  proportion  to  form  fruit  buds  as  well  as  wood  buds. 
Winter  pruning  is  one  of  the  important  means  by  which 
fruitfulness  is  brought  about,  but  it  may,  if  abused,  be  also  the 
means  of  rendering' trees  unfruitful.  In  the  case  of  restricted 
trees,  winter  pruning  is  the  completion  of  a  method  which  was 
begun  in  summer.  When  winter  pinning  only  is  adopted  in  the 
management  of  formally  trained!  specimens1  fruitful  results  are 
not  always  so  certain.  For  free  growing  trees  winter  pruning 
usually  suffices  to  maintain  them  properly  fruitful,  because  there 
is  not,  or  should  not  be,  the  hard  cutting  back,  but  the  simple 
thinning  out  of  branches. 
RESTRICTED  FRUIT  TREES. — A  tree  originated  with  a 
very  short  stem,  from  which  spring  a  number  of  branches,  each 
of  which  is  a  separate  or  independent  cordon,  is  termed  a  trained 
bush.  The  main  thing  is  not  to  crowd  these  separate  branches 
too  closely  together,  or,  if  they  are  crowded,  the  winter  pruning 
season  should  be  taken  advantage  of  to  thin  them  out  to  a 
distance  not  less  than  a  foot  from  each  other.  Both  Apples  and 
Pears  are  grown  in  this  form,  and  prove,  profitable.  The  winter 
pruning  consists  in  shortening  the  current  season’s  shoots,  which 
at  this  season  ought  not  to  be  their  full  length,  but  have  under¬ 
gone  the  process  of  summer  pruning.  Whether  the  latter  treat¬ 
ment  has  been  accorded  them  or  not,  prune  now  to  two  or  three 
buds,  these  eventually  forming  spurs.  Aged  trees  may  require 
further  treatment,  in  the  shape  of  reducing  the  length  of  elon¬ 
gated,  and  thinning  out  weakly  or  crowded  spurs.  Young  trees 
in  the  course,  of  formation  have  the  leaders  shortened  one-third 
of  the  present  season’s  growth.  In  fully  formed  branches  the 
same  as  side  shoots1. 
OPEN  BUSHES. — These  are  usually  free  growing  trees,  not 
trained  in  a  formal  manner,  but  allowed  to  extend  in  a  natural 
way,  and  regulated  by  the  usual  process  of  keeping  the  branches 
and  growths  thinly  disposed.  Cross  branches  may  be  cut.  out 
and  the  centres  left.  open.  As  a  rule,  they  are  encouraged  to 
form  natural  spurs  rather  than  artificial  by  not  practising  any 
shortening.  The.  thin  disposal  of  the  branches  so  admits  light 
and  air  that  the  trees  readily  do  this  and  continue  fruitful. 
When  it  is  necessary  to  curtail  the  size  of  the  bush  in  any  way,  it 
is  best  to  adopt  thinning  out,  and  manage  the  trees  more  like 
the  head  of  a  standard,  which  they  resemble  in  most  respects, 
except  length  of  main  stems  below  the  branches. 
PYRAMIDS. — Pyramid  trees,  chiefly  Apples  and  Pears,  are 
useful  forms  for  restricted1  spaces  and  small  gardens.  The 
branches  are  more  or  less  originated  horizontally  from  a  central 
stem  all  round  the  trees,  the  lower  ones  being  the  longest. 
They  are  not  necessarily  restricted  to  a  single  cordon  branch,  but 
may  fork,  though  they  should  not  crowd.  A  considerable 
amount  of  pruning  is  necessary  in  order  to  suppress  superfluous 
wood  and  keep  them  fruitful  and  shapely.  Root-pinning 
periodically  is  a  great  help  to  them,  as  it  encourages  fibrous 
rooting  and  discourages  strong  growths.  Summer  pruning 
is  imperative,  and  the  winter  practice  must  be  to  shorten 
these  to  one  or  two  buds.  Old  established  pyramids  which  have 
become  crowded  require,  first  of  all,  the  thinning  out  of  branches, 
then  spur  growths,  which  must  also  be  reduced  if  too  long. 
HORIZONTALLY  TRAINED.— Pears  are  best  adapted  for 
this  method  of  training  mainly  on  walls.  The  great,  mistake  is 
frequently  made  of  allowing  the  branches  to  be  crowded.  Also, 
when  there  are  elongated  spur  growths,  and  these,  too,  are 
thickly  placed,  the  trees  are,  or  shortly  will  be,  unfruitful.  Thin 
the  branches  to  not  less  than  a  foot  apart.  When  there  are  any 
signs  of  superabundant  growth  there  must  be  root-pruning  to 
check  it.  The  current  year’s  shoots,  which  should  be  summer 
pruned,  are  often  left  at  full  length  until  winter.  This  is  not 
good  practice,  as  strong  growths  are  almost  certain  to  follow 
instead  of  fruit  buds.  Prune  to  two  buds  and  look  over  the 
trees  to  see  whether  there  are  any  weakly  parts  which  may  be 
dispensed  with. 
STANDARDS. — Standards  are  best  grown  on  the  free  exten¬ 
sion  principle,  giving  each  tree  ample  room  to  grow,  when  the 
pruning  will  resolve  itself  into  the  removal  at  various  times  of 
crowded  branches.  Those  that  cross  one  another,  or  crowd  the 
interior,  are  best  cut  out,  always  at  their  union  with  larger 
branches.  Maintain,  also,  symmetrical  and  shapely  heads  by 
judicious  pruning. 
CORDONS.— To  maintain  cordons  in  a  fruitful,  well  balanced 
condition,  the  summer  pruning  must  not  be  neglected,  and  root- 
pruning  should  take  place  when  too  strong  roots  are  produced. 
The  winter  pruning  consists  in  pruning  the  shortened  current 
year’s  shoots  to  one  or  two  buds,  these  being  in  a  fair  way  to 
become  fruit  buds.  It  is  desirable  to  keep  the  fruiting  spurs 
as  near  the  main  stem  as  possible ;  therefore,  when  in  old  cordons 
these  beoome  elongated^  it  is  desirable  to  gradually  shorten  them 
back.— E.  D.  S. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS.— The  weather,  dull  and  foggy,  has  not  been 
in  favour  of  winter  fruiters,  and  the.  plants  have  suffered  in  con¬ 
sequence.  Use  warm  soil,  sweet,  and  not  very  wet,  for  earthing 
over  the  roots  as  they  show  at  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks. 
A  few  sweetened  horse  droppings  spread  on  the  surface,  and  a 
little  superphosphate  and  sulphate  of  potash,  mixed  with  soot, 
sprinkled  on  them,  will  attract  the  roots  and  afford  nourishment 
to  them  when  w  atered.  This  is  preferable  to  liquid  manure.  Un¬ 
less  the  plants  are  growing  in  limited  borders,  boxes,  or  pots, 
copious  supplies  will  be  necessary.  Always  apply  it  weak  and 
tepid,  and  not  too  often.  Sufficient  moisture. will  be  secured  by 
damping  the  floor  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  of  fine 
days,  but  avoid  excessive  moisture,  and  do  not  supply  water  to 
the  roots  till  the  soil  is  becoming  dry,  then  afford  a  thorough 
supply. 
Look  over  the  plants  at  least  once  a  week  for  stopping,  re¬ 
moving  bad  leaves,  thinning  as  required,  but  pinching  and 
thinning  will  not  be  required  to  a  great,  extent,  yet  both  must 
be  attended  to,  as  crowding  is  a  great  evil  in  the  grow  th  of  winter 
Cucumbers.  Overcropping  is  a  still  greater  malpractice,  and 
allowing  the  fruits  to  hang  needlessly  after  they  attain  a  size 
fit  for  cutting  serves  only  to  weaken  the  plants,  and  prevent 
other  and  younger  fruits  from  swelling,  but  when  large  enough 
the  fruits  keep  several  days  if  the  ends  are  inserted  in  saucers  of 
water  in  a  place  safe  from  frost.  Ill-shaped  and  superfluous  fruit 
should  be  removed  as  they  appear,  and  tendrils  and  staminate 
blossoms  answer  no  useful  purpose;  therefore,  remove  them. 
Sometimes,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  fertilise  the  pistillate 
flowers  to  make  sure  of  the  fruit  swelling,  and  though  this  may 
give  a  “  knobby  ”  fruit,  it  is  better  than  none,  at  all.  Fertilisa¬ 
tion,  however,  is  seldom  necessary  for  healthy  plants  raised  from 
fresh  seeds. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  :  Earliest  House. — To  have 
ripe  fruit,  in  May  of  the  standard  forcing  varieties,  such  as  Hale’s 
Early,  Stirling  Castle,  Dymond,  Royal  George,  and  Grosse  Mig- 
nonne  Peaches,  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier,  Elruge  (some  growers 
prefer  Stanwick  Elruge),  and  Humboldt  Nectarines,  there  must 
not  be  any  further  delay  in  putting  on  the  roof  lights  and  closing 
the  house.  The  very  early  Peaches,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo, 
and  Early  Louise,  with  Advance  and  Cardinal  Nectarines  started 
at  the  same  time,  will  afford  fruit  a  month  earlier  under  a  simi¬ 
larity  of  forcing  conditions;  indeed,  they  may  be  grown  so  as  to 
produce  ripe  fruit  in  about  thirteen  weeks  from  starting,  the 
huds  being  then  well  advanced  in  swelling,  as  early  forced  trees 
usually  are,  by  what  is  known  as  “hard  forcing.”  Ripe  Peaches 
andT Nectarines  in  late  March  and  during  April  bring  long  prices, 
and  though  there  are  successes  the  failures  are  not  unfrequent. 
Growing  a  few  trees  in  pots  is  well  worth  while,  as  both  at  table 
and  in  the  market  such  very  early  fruits  are  highly  prized. 
Trees  started  at  an  early  date  in  previous  years  swell  their 
buds  promptly  without  much  excitement  from  artificial  heat, 
but  those  forced  for  the  first  time  are  slower  in  starting  into 
flower.  These  must  not  be  hurried,  and  with  the  buds  swelling 
and  advancing  for  flowering  the  atmosphere  must  not  be  kept 
very  close,  as  it  is  important  that  the  blossoms  advance  steadily 
and  have  time  to  develop  flowers  perfect  in  all  their  parts. 
Where  the  atmosphere  is  kept  close  and  too  moist  the  blossoms 
are  drawn  and  weak  if  the  temperature  is  too  high ;  if  low,  little 
progress  is  made,  and  the  fructifying  organs  are  stunted  and 
effete.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house, 
and  above  oOdeg  it  should  be  increased  correspondingly  with  the 
temperature,  but  not  allowing  it  to  decline  below  50deg  in  the 
daytime,  sufficient  artificial  heat  being  maintained  for  that  pur¬ 
pose,  and  with  sun  heat  an  advance  may  be  allowed  to  Go  deg. 
closing  for  the  day  before  the  temperature  has  receded  to  bOdeg. 
A  temperature  of  40deg  to  45deg  is  ample  at  night,  and  in  mild 
weather  bOdeg. 
When  the  flowers  are  advanced  so  that  the  anthers  are  show¬ 
ing,  cease  syringing,  but  afford  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture 
by  damping  the  borders,  paths,  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon  of  fine  days.  Avoid  a  close,  stagnant  atmosphere  at 
any  time,  but  especially  at  night  with  a  high  temperature. 
Examine  the  inside  border,  making  sure  that,  there  is  no 
deficiency  of  moisture.  If  necessary,  afford  a  copious  supply  of 
water  or  liquid  manure.  The  surface  soil  is  often  deceptive. 
