December  18,  1902.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
573 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES  :  EARLIEST  FORCED  IN  POTS.— Where  fermenting 
materials  are  employed  in  the  pits,  and  the  pots  are  placed  on 
pillars,  frequent  additions  of  fresh  leaves  or  sweetened  material 
should  be  made  as  the  heat-  declines.  The  heat  about  the  pots 
must  not  exceed  70deg  to  75deg;  indeed,  that  temperature  at 
the  base  of  the  pots  is  sufficient  until  the  buds  commence 
swelling,  when  the  heat  may  gradually  be  increased  at  the  roots 
by  placing  material  about  the  pots,  so  as  to  have  it  between  the 
degrees  named  by  the  time  the  Vines  are  coming  into  leaf.  In¬ 
crease  the  temperature  of  the  house  gradually  after  the  buds 
are  on  the  move  from  5odeg,  so  as  to  have  it  GO  deg  to  65deg  by 
the  time  the  shoots  commence  developing,  allowing  an  advance 
to  70deg  or  75deg  by  dav,  carefully  admitting  a  little  air  at 
70deg,  and  close  early.  Disbud  as  soon  as  the  shows  for  fruit 
can  be  detected  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  reserving  the  most 
promising.  Stop  about  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches,  and 
pinch  the  laterals  from  the  current  growths  at  the  first 
leaf,  or  remove  them  up  to  the  bunches,  allowing  those  beyond 
to  extend  as  space  permits  ;  but  this  is  usually  limited  in  the 
case  of  Vines  in  pots,  therefore  retain  m>  more  foliage  than  can 
have  full  exposure  to  light,  for  to  encourage  more  and  afterwards 
remove  it  is  disastrous. 
Moderate  moisture  only  will  need  to  be  applied  by  sprinkling 
where  fermenting  materials  are  employed,  and  where  these  are 
not  at  command  an  occasional  damping  with  dilute  liquid  manure, 
such  as  guano,  loz  to  a  gallon  of  water,  will  be  of  service,  while 
evaporation  troughs  should  be  kept  charged  with  it  at  half- 
strength.  This  will  give  a  perceptible  smell  of  ammonia,  as  well 
as  moisture,  constantly,  and  modify  the  dry  heat  where  it  is 
solely  derived  from  hot-water  pipes.  Water  should  be  given 
carefully  at  the  roots,  as  these  do  not  move  much  until  the  Vines 
are  in  growth,  and  even  then  they  do  not  require  much  water 
before  the  leaves  are  formed,  and  evaporation  from  them  is  con¬ 
siderable. 
EARLY  FORCED  PLANTED-OUT  VINES.— The  buds  of 
Vines  started  last  month,  even  those  subjected  to  no  fire  heat 
over  50deg  and  forced  in  previous  years,  are  now  swelling  the 
buds,  and  a  moist  but  not  very  wet  condition  at  the  roots. 
Making  the  soil  sodden  by  needless  waterings  is  very  injurious, 
retarding  instead  of  accelerating  root  formation.  Raise  the 
temperature  gradually,  say  2deg  or  3deg  in  the  course  of  a  few’ 
days,  so  as  to  have  it  GOdeg  to  65deg  at  night,  when  the  Vines 
come  into  leaf,  and  70deg  to  75deg  in  the  daytime,  with  a  little 
air  at  70deg  without  lowering  the  heat,  if  only  for  a  short  time, 
so  as  to  secure  a  change  of  air  once  at  least  in  twenty-four  hours. 
If  the  Vines  have  not  been  started  early  before,  and  are  tardy 
in  moving,  ripe  fruit  being  required  by  a  given  time,  growth  may 
be  induced  by  a  brisk  moist  heat  of  70deg  to  75deg  in  the  day¬ 
time,  it  being  important  whilst  the  foliage  is  being  made  that  a 
moderate  temperature  be  employed  in  order  to  secure  short- 
jointed  wood  and  stout,  well-developed  foliage.  Young  Vines 
that  have  not.  been  forced  before  will  need  more  time,  and  all 
young  canes  must  be  brought  down  to  a  horizontal  position,  or 
lowrer,  to  insure  their  breaking  the  buds  regularly.  Some  well- 
fermented  short,  stable  manure  and  leaves,  placed  in  ridges  on 
the  inside  border,  will  afford  a  genial  moisture  and  warmth,  and 
lessen  the  necessity  for  syringing,  it  being  a  bad  plan  to  keep 
the  rods  dripping  with  water,  which  greatly  accelerates  aerial 
roots  in  pushing  and  developing. 
MIDSEASON  HOUSES. — Push  forward  the  pruning  of  the 
Vines  as  they  become  cleared  of  the  Grapes,  for  there  is  nothing 
like  a  long  and  complete  rest  for  the  Vines,  which  early  pruning 
in  a  great  measure  secures.  The  Vines  ought  to  be  dressed,  re¬ 
moving  the  loose  bark,  for  it  does  nothing  but  harbour  vermin, 
yet  not  going  to  the  opposite  extreme  of  peeling  and  scraping 
into  the  quick  or  live  bark.  Wash  the  rods  with  an  insecticide 
properly  diluted,  such  as  petroleum  emulsion,  4oz  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  adding  loz  sulphide  of  potassium,  previously  dissolved 
in  a  quart  of  hot  water,  to  the  paraffin  emulsion  solution,  stirring 
well.  Such,  rightly  administered  with  a  stiffish  brush,  and 
every  angle,  crevice,  and  hole  reached  into  thoroughly,  taking 
care  not  to  damage  the  buds,  acts  both  as  an  insecticide  and 
fungicide.  The  house  also  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  for 
it  is  essential  that  nothing  be  left  undone  which  in  the  coming 
season  is  of  consequence  to  the  health  of  the  Vines.  All  insects 
or  eggs  now  cleared  away  mean  the  prevention  of  new  colonies 
in  the  coming  year  on  the  Vines,  from  which  they  derive  their 
subsistence,  and  it  is  far  better  to  prevent  than  have  to  cure 
diseases.  The  loose  inert  soil  should  be  removed  and  fresh  loam 
supplied,  with  an  admixture  of  about  one-fourth  of  well-decayed 
nianure,  a  sprinkling  of  charcoal  and  old  mortar  rubbish  being 
incorporated  with  the  manure  and  loam,  then  a  good  handful 
per  square  yard  of  the  advertised  fertilisers  sprinkled  on  the  top 
will  put  food  into  the  soil  ready  for  the  Vine  roots  to  lay  hold 
of  in  the  next  season  of  growth.  Liquid  manure  may  be  usefully 
given  where  the  soil  is  dry  or  even  moist,  provided  always  that 
the  soil  is  not  made  dry  or  sodden.  Keep  the  house  cool  and 
dry  until  the  time  arrives  for  starting.  If  they  must  be  used 
for  plants,  keep  the  temperature  at  40deg  to  45deg  by  artificial 
means.  More  heat  interferes  with  the  resting  of  the  Vines,  and 
in  a  mean  temperature  of  GOdeg  they  start  into  growth. 
LATE  GRAPES. — The  bunches  should  be  examined  at  least 
twice  a  week  for  decayed  berries,  and  the  house  kept  cool  and 
dry  as  consistent  with  the  safety  and  preservation  of  the  fruit. 
With  the  Grapes  thoroughly  finished,  and  the  Vines,  leafless,  a 
temperature  of  GOdeg  is  suitable  until  the  time  arrives  for 
bottling ;  any  degree  much  below  that  is  likely  to  cause  mould 
and  decay,  and  fire  heat,  especially  at  night,  will  undoubtedly 
cause  the  berries  to  shrivel  immediately  after  the  fall  of  the 
foliage.  Some  Grapes  improve  in  quality  after  this  is  given, 
such  as  Gros  Colman,  which  requires  the  most  time  on  the  Vines, 
while  some  soon  pass  into  a  red  colour  and  shrivelled  condition, 
especially  Mrs.  Pince,  after  the  leaves  are  gone.  No  further 
time  should  be  lost  in  getting  the  Grape  room  ready  for  the 
stock  of  keeping  Grapes,  which,  as  a  rule,  would  be  cleared  off 
the  Vines  not  later  than  the  first  week  in  January,  expelling 
damp  from  it  by  the  needful  firing  and  ventilation.  The  Grapes 
keep  better  in  a  suitable  room  than  on  the  Vines  exposed  to 
light,  and  they  lose  very  little  more  weight  cut  than  hanging, 
whilst  the  losses  from  decay  are  reduced  to  a  minimum. 
Bottling  affords  relief  to  the  Vines,  insuring  that  perfect  rest 
so  essential  to  their  well-being.  It  also  admits  of  the  Vines 
being  started  earlier  in  the  spring,  and  this  gives  the  kinds 
that  require  a  long  time  of  growth  the  full  benefit  of  the 
summer’s  sun — its  light  and  its  warmth — where  utilised  by  early 
closing,  so  that  the  Grapes  may  be  ripened  perfectly  before  the 
month  of  September  is  out. — St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
POTATOES  IN  POTS. — Early  Potatoes  may  be  successfully 
grown  in  lOin  pots  in  a  light,  moderately  heated  structure. 
Drain  the  pots,  and  three  parts  fill  with  a  compost  consisting 
of  old  manure,  loam,  and  leaf  soil.  Plant  medium-sized,  whom 
sets  with  the  crown  eye  upwards,  placing  three  sets  in  each 
10in  pot.  The  number  of  pots  must  be  regulated  by  the  space 
at  command  when  growth  is  taking  place,  as  light  and  air  must 
be  freely  given  at  that  period.  Early  Ashleaf,  Ringleader,  and 
Duke  of  York  are  varieties  suitable  for  pot  culture.  The  space 
left  in  the  pots  may  be  filled  up  with  good  soil  when  the  growth 
is  large  enough. 
PREPARING  POTATOES  FOR  FRAMES.— Much  larger 
quantities  of  early  Potatoes  may  be  grown  in  frames  than  in 
pots.  These  may  be  planted  shortly ;  but  in  the  meantime  it 
is  an  excellent  plan  to  prepare  the  sets  by  encouraging  them  to 
make  early  growth  in  gentle  warmth  and  moisture.  In  order 
to  do  this  place  the  tubers  on  end  in  shallow  boxes,  which  stand 
in  a  light,  warm  position  near  the  glass.  With  frequent  sprink¬ 
ling  the  eyes  will  soon  push.  As  soon  as  they  do,  rub  off  all 
but  the  crown  eye,  which  will  be  the  largest  and  strongest. 
Under  the  influence  of  light  it  will  grow  strong  and  take  on  a 
deep  purple  colour,  though  more  pronounced  later  in  the  season 
than  at  this  early  date.  Medium-sized  tubers  are  the  best. 
TRENCHING  GROUND.— Vacant  plots  in  the  kitchen 
garden  should  be  trenched  deeply,  especially  where  crops  of 
Peas,  Beans,  and  root  crops  are  to  be  grown,  and  the  land  is 
either  of  a  stiff,  or  a  light,  poor  character.  When  stiff  and 
difficult  to  work,  trenching  improves  it,  because  the  loosening 
of  the  upper  layers  allows  of  the  weather  acting  upon  it  and 
pulverising  it.  The  breaking  up  of  the  lower  spit,  which  should 
always  be  done  in  trenching,  permits  of  superfluous  water  drain¬ 
ing  away,  while  retaining  sufficient  for  the  needs  of  crops.  Light 
and  poor  soil  is  improved,  because  trenching  deepens  the  medium 
in  which  the  roots  of  crops  can  work.  The  breaking  up  and 
intermixing  with  enriching  materials  also  tend  to  permanent 
improvement,  and  what  is  of  great  importance,  a  more  regular 
condition  of  moisture  is  ensured.  A  main  principle  to  be  kept 
in  view  in  trenching  is  not  to  bring  inert  subsoil  to  the  surface, 
and  bury  the  upper  layers,  which  are  always  the  best.  Trench¬ 
ing  without  manuring  is  beneficial,  but  the  opportunity  may  be 
taken,  when  preparing  the  land  for  anything  of  a  gross  feeding 
character,  to  incorporate  a  liberal  dressing  of  manure.  Tap- 
rooted  vegetables  should,  however,  have  the  manure  placed  low 
down.  ,  , , 
LETTUCE  AND  ENDIVE. — "When  the  weather  is  open 
about  this  time  the  hoe  may  be  run  between  the  plants  to  lighten 
up  the  soil  and  prevent  the  rooting  of  seedling  weeds.  Plants 
in  frames  must  receive  plenty  of  air,  decaying  leaves  being 
