December  25,  1902.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
591 
%*  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
BOTHY  PLAN  COMPETITION.— A  number  of  plans  have 
been  received. 
PEARS  NOT  RIPENING  (A.  L.).— Many  Pears  fail  to  ripen 
because  they  are  gathered  too  soon,  and  then  stood  in  a  very 
light  dry  place,  whereby  their  juices  escape  and  the  fruit  becomes 
dry  and  remains  firm.  As  you  give  us  no  particulars  to  guide  us 
in  forming  a  judgment  in  your  individual  case,  we  arc  only  able 
to  give  this  general  reply.  We  did  not  publish  the  report  to 
which  you  refer,  because  it  was  a  distinct  and  most  effective 
advertisement  of  the  products  of  a  firm  who  do  not  advertise  in 
cur  pages.  We  do  not,  however,  suppose  for  a  moment  that  you 
were  animated  with  other  than  a  worthy  motive  in  sending  the 
report. 
WIREWORM  AND  GRI  BS  IN  A  GARDEN  (Irish  Sub¬ 
scriber). — If  wood  is  plentiful  in  your  district,  and  can  be  had  at 
little  beyond  the  cost  of  cutting,  the  best  thing  to  do  would  be 
to  make  some  fires,  and  when  strong  enough  dig  soil  from  around 
them  and  place  on  to  be  scorched.  This  would  not  only  extir¬ 
pate  the  grubs,  but  would  be  of  greater  benefit  to  the  soil  than 
a  heavy  dressing  of  manure.  Failing  your  ability  to  act  as  sug¬ 
gested,  we  should  use  gas  lime,  fresh  and  strong,  at  the  rate  of 
half  a  ton  to  the  acre,  carefully  digging  it  in  and  mixing  it  with 
the  soil,  not  merely  burying  it  in  la37ers  in  the  trenches  formed 
in  digging.  This  may  be  done  now,  and  the  sooner  the  better 
with  land  that  is  quite  vacant,  but  not  half  that  quantity  must 
be  applied  to  land  that  is  cropped  or  within  three  months  of  sow¬ 
ing  or  planting.  Either  in  addition  to  that  dressing  or  inde¬ 
pendently  of  it  ordinary  fresh  slaked  lime  may  be  pointed  into 
the  soil  in  spring,  shortly  before  sowing  or  planting,  at  the  rate 
*  of  fifty  bushels  per  acre,  and  twice  that  quantity  would  do  no 
harm  if  the  land  is  strong  or  very  rich. 
PRENING  GOOSEBERRIES  (Pershore).  —  Whinham’s 
Industry  Gooseberry  has  been  illustrated  in  this  Journal,  and 
testimony  published  of  its  productiveness.  You  are  not  likely 
to  spoil  your  newly  planted  trees  by  rather  close  pruning,  pro- 
provided  you  cut  to  prominent  buds  on  the  young  wood,  or  that 
formed  last  year,  selecting  those  buds  that  point  in  the  direction 
you  wish  future  growths  to  extend.  First  thin  out  the  growth  i 
if  numerous,  making  cuttings  of  those  removed,  and  leaving  those 
retained  6in  asunder.  These  may  be  shortened  to  3in  or  Tin, 
the  parts  removed,  if  long  enough,  being  inserted  as  cuttings. 
When  a  choice  is  afforded,  we  prefer  cuttings  15in  to  18in  long, 
but  have  inserted  them  less  than  a  third  of  that  length,  or  two 
joints  within  the  soil,  and  one  or  two  above  it,  the  buds  being 
removed  from  the  portion  inserted  if  suckers  were  not  desired', 
for  future  cuttings.  The  cuttings  should  be  inserted  firmly  in 
sandy  soil.  The  leading  growths  of  established  Gooseberry 
bushes  may  be  left  longer  than  above  indicated,  and  side  growths 
from  the  main  branches  may  be  shortened  to  within  an  inch  of 
the  base  of  the  young  wood  both  on  newly  planted  and  established 
trees. 
PRUNING  FRUIT  TREES  (W.  A.  K.).— The  condition  of 
the  roots  is  an  important  factor  in  determining  the  extent  to 
which  the  branches  of  recently  planted  trees  should  be  shortened. 
The  more  plentiful  the  roots  are,  especially  those  of  a  fibrous 
nature,  the  longer  the  branches  may  be  left,  and  the  more  sparse 
the  roots  the  closer  should  be  the  pruning  of  the  shoots.  See  our 
reply  to  “  W.  J.”  on  pruning  and  planting  Apricot  trees.  You 
will  perhaps  not.  err  by  removing  about  one-fourth  the  length 
of  the  branches  of  your  trained  Plum  and  Cherry  trees,  but  the 
roots  must  be  your  guide.  The  pyramid  trees  should  be  thinned 
cut  if  the  growths  are  numerous,  the  main  branches  being  from 
9in  to  a  foot  apart,  any  side  growths  on  them  shortened  to  about 
two  buds,  the  terminals  being  left  8in  or  Din  long,  according 
to  their  strength  and  the  symmetry  of  the  trees.  Stone  fruits 
are  best  attended  to  by  disbudding  and  pinching  the  growths  in 
summer  so  as  to  reduce  the  necessity  of  winter  pruning  to  a 
minimum.  Morello  Cherries  when  established  require  scarcely 
any  pruning  in  the  winter,  as  the  wood  if  trained  thinly  in  the 
summer  in  order  to  become  matured  bears  throughout  its  length 
like  that  of  Peaches.  It  is  often  advisable,  however,  to  both 
thin  out  and  shorten  the  shoots  of  newly  planted  trees  to  insure 
a  good  growth  the  first  season,  then  disbudding  to  prevent  over¬ 
crowding  is  the  most  important  point  in  management.  The 
“Garden  Manual,”  published  at  this  office,  price  Is.  6d.,  po.-t 
free  Is.  9d.,  contains  practical  instructions  on  the  management 
of  trees. 
ADDRESSES  (A.  C.). — We  think  you  can  obtain  the  informa¬ 
tion  on  meteorological  instruments  you  require  by  writing  to 
Messrs.  Negretti  and  Zambra,  Holborn  Viaduct,  London. 
BOOK  WANTED  (A.  B.  C.). — We  know  of  no  book  at  present 
in  print  on  the  subject  of  table  decorations.  Such  a  book  would 
find  a  ready  demand,  and  we  suggest  that  some  lady  or  gentleman 
might  compile  one. 
GHENT  QUINQUENNIAL  EXHIBITION  (J.  S.  Brunton).— 
Our  brief  report  of  this  exhibition,  in  1898,  appeared  in  the 
issue  for  April  21  of  that  year,  pages  350  and  351.  Our  pub¬ 
lisher  charges  Is.  4d.  per  copy  for  a  number  so  far  back,  which, 
moreover,  may  not  be  in  stock. 
EUCHARIS  ROOTS  DESTROYED  (J.  F.  G.).— The  bulbs 
are  attacked  by  the  destructive  mite  that  is  not  by  any  means, 
easy  to  eradicate,  still  we  have  seen  bulbs  quite  as  much  injured 
as  those  you  have  sent  that  were  cleansed,  and  afterwards  rooted 
freely,  healthy  plants  resulting,  and  now  producing  flowers. 
Remove  all  the  injured  roots  and  scaly  matter  from  both  the 
base  and  neck  of  the  bulbs,  then  wash  them  thoroughly  in  a 
solution  made  by  dissolving  2oz  of  softsoap  with  a  lump  of  soda 
as  large  as  a  nutmeg  in  a  gallon  of  soft  boiling  water,  stirring 
in  briskly  while  still  hot  a  small  wineglassful  of  common 
petroleum,  such  as  is  burned  in  lamps.  When  this  has  cooled! 
somewhat,  but  is  still  as  hot  as  the  hand  can  be  borne  in  it  for 
a  moment  or  two,  dip  the  bulbs  in  it  and  rub  the_  solution  into 
every  fissure  with  a  soft  brush.  This  mixture  will  destroy  all 
the  mites  that  are  reached.  Place  the  bulbs  in  small,  clean, 
well-drained  pots  of  rather  sandy  turfy  loam,  embedding  them 
in  and  surrounding  with  crushed  charcoal,  plunging  the  pots  in 
bottom  heat  if  convenient  ;  then,  if  the  soil  is  kept  moderately 
moist,  but  not  distinctly  wet,  fresh  roots  will  in  a1!  probability 
be  emitted.  A  little  soot  and  bruised  charcoal  mixed  with  the 
turf  used  will  be  an  advantage,  as  much  as  would  fill  a  dessert 
spoon  being  sufficient  of  the  former  for  a,  Sin  pot ;  charcoal  may 
be  safely  used  more  freely.. 
PLANTING  AND  PRUNING  APRICOT  TREE  (W.  J.).— 
We  presume  your  tree  is  young.  If  it  is  well  rooted — that  is,  has 
a  good  number  of  fibrous  roots,  we  should  not  shorten  the  branches 
to  any  great  extent.  In  planting,  cut  off  all  jagged  roots  and 
bruised  portions  and  plant  in  a  mixture  of  fresh  loam, lime  rubbish, 
and  wood  ashes,  laying  the  roots  out  straight,  separating  them,  and 
packing  the  soil  rather  firmly  round  them,  covering  about  5in  deep 
and  spreading  littery  manure  over  the  surface  and  for  a  foot  or 
more  beyond  the  extension  of  the  roots.  If  the  branches  are 
numerous  remove  some  of  the  weaker  entirely,  so  that  the  others 
can  be  disposed  8in  or  9in  apart,  and  if  there  is  a  foot  between 
them  at  a  distance  of  3ft  from  the  stem  all  the  better.  Assum¬ 
ing  roots  are  plentiful,  we  should  only  remove  the  unripe  ends  of 
the  branches,  say  a  length  of  Gin,  more  or  less  according  to  their 
condition  and  with  due  regard  to  the  symmetry  of  the  tree, 
cutting  from  below  and  starting  the  undercut  above  what  is  to  be 
the  terminal  bud,  not  below  it,  bringing  the  knife  out  above, 
as  is  frequently  done.  The  lower  branches  of  a  tree  should,  as 
far  as  possible,  be  in  advance — that  is,  longer  than  those  above 
them,  so  that  the  lower  part  of  the  wall  may  be  furnished. 
There  is  no  difficulty  in  covering  the  upper  portion.  When  a 
branch  is  disposed  to  lag  behind,  it  should  be  trained  more  or 
less  towards  a  vertical  position,  those  fully  too  strong  being 
correspondingly  depressed.  When  luxuriant  shoots  push  from  the 
centre  of  the  tree  and  threaten  to  draw  the  sap  from  the  weaker 
growths  below,  the  tips  may  be  taken  from  the  strong  shoots 
when  Gin  long,  and  the  secondary  growths  that  will  push  will 
quite  equal  in  strength  the  first  growths  on  the  lower  branches. 
Apricots  trained  thinly  and  a  good  balance  of  growths  main¬ 
tained  in  summer,  the  roots  encouraged  to  extend  in  rather  firm 
and  not  over-rich  soil  near  the  surface,  produce  short -jointed 
wood  that  matures  and  becomes  fruitful  in  character,  and  no 
more  shortening  of  the  branches  is  then  required  in  the  winter 
than  may  be  advisable  for  forming  a  well-balanced,  fruitful  tree. 
Do  not  secure  the  branches  tightly  to  the  wall  on  planting,  as> 
the  soil  may  settle  somewhat  and  drag  the  roots  downwards  if  the 
branches  are  immoveable.  The  Hemskerk  is  a  variety  of  the 
Moorpark,  and  one  of  the  most  useful  Apricots  you  can  grow. 
NAMES  OF  FRUITS. — Correspondents  whose  queries  are  un¬ 
answered  in  the  present  issue  are  respectfully  requested  to  consult  the 
following  number.  (A.  B.).— 1,  King  of  the  Pippins;  2,  Nelson’s 
Codlin  3,  American  Mother  ;  4,  Blenheim  Orange  ;  5,  same  as  No.  1 ; 
6,  Red  Streak. 
NAMES  OF  PLANTS.— Correspondents  whose  queries  are  un¬ 
answered  in  the  present  issue  are  respec' fully  requested  to  consult  the 
following  number.  (L.  F.).— 1,  Tibouehina  macrantha ;  2,  Polygala 
oppositifolia.  (H.  J.).—  Mesembryanthemum  sp.  (T.  P.).— 1.  Den- 
drobium  aureum ;  2.  Cjpripedium  Curtisi.  (1.  L.  F.).  1.  Azara 
microphylla ;  2,  Berberis  asiatica ;  3,  Jasminum  nudiflorum ;  4, 
Begonia  manieata  variegata. 
