84 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AED  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
January  2P,  1904. 
WOKK.fo^ItheWEEK.. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
BUSH  FRUITS. — The  pruning  of  these  should  be  finished 
whenever  the  weather  is  favourable.  An  exception  niay  be 
made  in  the  case  of  Gooseberries,  where  it  is  found  birds  are 
very  troublesome,  delaying  the  work  amongst  these  until  later 
in  the  season.  Should  the  bushes  be  infested  with  mossy  growths 
some  effort  should  be  made  to  cleanse  them,  either  by  dusting 
them  over  during  calm,  moist  weather  with  freshly  slaked  lime, 
or  by  spraying  rvith  a  solution  of  caustic  soda  and  pearlash. 
Bushes  which  make  weakly  growtlis  ought,  if  possible,  to  have 
an  application  of  rotten  manure ;  the  ground  should  be  neatly 
turned  over  at  a  sufficient  depth  to  bury  all  but  deeply  rooted 
w'eeds,  such  as  Dandelions,  Ac.,  being  careful  not  to  destroy  the 
surface  roots  near  the  stems  of  the  bushes  in  the  operation. 
RASPBERRIES. — There  should  be  no  longer  any  delay  in 
getting  these  tied  to  wires  or  other  supports.  Digging  deeply 
amongst  these  is  opposed  to  good  practice,  as  the  chief  feeding 
roots  are  destroyed  in  consequence.  A  heavy  middling  of 
manure  should  be  applied  and  allowed  to  remain,  to  be  washed 
in  by  the  rains.  Young  plantations  may  be  made  as  required. 
For  this  purpose  medium-sized  canes  should  be  chosen,  which 
have  a  number  of  fibrous  roots  in  preference  to  those  of  a  large 
gross  nature,  these  latter  being  usually  but  poorly  furnished 
with  roots. 
STRAWBERRIES. — Old  beds  of  these  that  have  become 
weakly  may  be  assisted  by  spreading  rich  manure  between  the 
rows,  or,  failing  this,  liquid  manure  will  be  found  of  benefit. 
Beds  in  good  condition  not  needing  mulching  may  be  lightly 
forked  over;  annual  weeds  may  safely  be  buried.  Land  for 
spring  planting  ought  to  be  deeply  worked  and  well  supplied 
with  manui'e. 
WALL  TREES  AND  ESPALIERS.— The  necessary  nailing 
and  pruning  of  wall  trees  must  receive  attention.  The  work 
should  not,  however,  be  done  during  bitterly  cold  weather,  as  it 
cannot  be  satisfactorily  performed.  Owing  to  the  continuous 
pruning  back  needful  to  maintain  wall  trees  and  espaliers  in 
neat  order,  the  side  branches  are  apt  to  become — unless  growing 
in  very  favourable  soil  and  situation — prematurely  worn  and 
unfruitful.  It  is  a  good  plan  in  such  cases  to  bodily  remove  a 
branch  here  and  there,  and  train  in  new  growThs  in  the  places 
of  those  removed.  There  need  be  no  fear  as  to  the  trees  starting 
new  growths  if  the  treatment  of  the  roots  is  generous. 
STAKING  NEWLY  PLANTED  TREES.— All  standards 
should  be  at  once  staked  immediately  after  planting,  especially 
in  exposed  positions  is  this  an  important  matter.  If  trees  are 
left  unsupported,  and  allowed  to  be  blown  about  by  the  wind, 
the  leverage  of  the  stems  prevents  the  roots  from  becoming 
established  in  the  soil  very  much  longer  than  would  bo  the  case 
if  receiving  attention  at  the  proper  time.  Pieces  of  cloth  or 
similar  material  ought  to  be  placed  around  the  stems  to  prevent 
cutting  when  tivine  is  used,  though,  in  spite  of  what  has  been 
ui’ged  in  onnosition  to  the  use  of  hay  bands,  we  have  yet  no 
better  method  of  tying  than  with  these.  The  supporting  stakes 
should  be  three  in  number  to  each  tree,  arranged  as  a  tripod, 
using  a  hayband  to  bind  all  firmly  but  not  tightly  together.  This 
fastening  will  sustain  the  trees  from  whatever  quarter  a  storm 
may  come. — J.  W.,  Newent,  Glos. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
YINES:  EARLIEST  FORGED  IN  POTS.— These  will  now 
require  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure,  always  tepid  and  never 
too  strong.  The  nourishment  is  needed  as  soon  as  the  Vines  have 
made  fresh  growths,  and  then  right  along  to  secure  well  developed 
bunches  and  berries.  When  these  are  set,  thin  somewhat  freely 
to  induce  fine  berries,  but  not  going  to  the  extreme  of  making 
the  bunches  loose;  compact,  even-berried  clusters  are  the  most 
tempting.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  GOdeg  to  Bodeg, 
falling  5deg  on  cold  nights,  Bodeg  to  70deg  on  cold  days,  70deg 
to  7odeg  when  mild  and  dull,  and  on  fine  days  ventilating  at 
70deg,  but  only  a  little,  increasing  the  air  with  the  sun  heat  to 
80deg  or  85deg,  at  which  keep  through  the  day  from  that  source, 
closing  in  good  time,  and  so  as  to  run  up  to  90deg,  then  damiiing 
the  paths  and  walls.  Damping  is  also  necessary  in  the  early  jiart 
of  the  day,  and  in  the  evening  of  fine  days. 
XmES  STARTED  AT  THE  NEW  YEAR.— The  buds  are 
moving  both  evenly  and  strongly.  Continue  syringing  the  Vines 
twice  a  day  until  the  bunches  form,  then  discontinue  it,  and 
maintain  the  atmosphere  afterward.s  in  a  genial  condition  by 
damping  instead  two  or  three  times  a  day.  Avoid  syringing  hot- 
water  pipes  when  highly  heated,  the  vapour  being  different  from 
moisture  given  out  by  cooler  surfaces,  and  is  a  common  cause  of 
rmsting  of  the  berries.  The  temperature  should  be  increased  to 
55deg  at  night,  BOdeg  to  Bodeg  by  day,  with  an  advance  to  75deg 
from  sun  heat,  gradually  raising  the  heat  to  BOdeg  to  B5deg  at 
nights,  and  70deg  to  75deg  by  day  by  the  time  the  Vines  are  in 
lea.f.  Ventilate  carefully,  early,  and  in  accordance  with  external 
influences. 
STRAWBERRIES  IN  POTS.— The  weather,  though  mild, 
has  been  foggy  and  dull,  therefore  unfavourable  for  more  than 
keeping  the  plants  gently  moving.  Ventilation  must  be  very 
carefully  given  to  plants  in  flower,  setting  or  swelling  the  fruit, 
as  sudden  and  drying  currents  of  cold  air  chill  both  the  organs 
of  fructification  and  the  tender  fruits,  and  they  do  very  little 
good  afterwards.  When  the  air  is  cold  and  sharp,  some  hexagon 
netting  placed  over  the  ventilators  admits  of  fresh  air  when  it 
could  not  be  otherwise  admitted.  Plants  in  flower  should  have 
air  under  or  above  them,  so  that  it  is  warmed  before  it  comes  in 
contact  with  the  tender  fructifying  organs.  Have  the  atmo- 
sjDhere  rather  dry  for  a  couple  of  hours  each  day,  so  as  to  insure 
conditions  favourable  for  fertilising  by  a  little  extra  heat  if 
necessary,  with  freer  ventilation.  Fertilisation  is  easily  effected 
with  a  feather  duster,  examining  the  flowers  each  day  until  there 
is  a  good  crop  set,  after  which  remove  all  superfluous  flowers, 
also  surplus  and  deformed  fruits.  Water  the  plants  in  flower  in 
the  mornings  of  fine  days,  lifting  the  leaves  and  flowers  with  one 
hand  so  as  to  avoid  wetting  them,  and  keeping  the  water  from 
the  crown,  as  that  frequently  suffers  through  the  frequent  appli¬ 
cation  of  water  and  a  close  atmosphere.  Afford  liquid  manure 
to  plants  swelling  their  crops,  and  maintain  a  genial  condition  of 
the  atmosphere,  with  a  temperature  of  BOdeg  to  Bodeg,  with 
lOdeg  to  15deg  rise  from  sun  heat. 
PINES. — The  plants  recently  started  into  fruit  will,  if  in 
good  condition  at  the  roots,  produce  strong  suckers.  When 
these  are  large  enough  to  handle,  all,  except  one  to  each  plant, 
should  have  the  growths  checked  by  taking  out  the  centre  of  those 
not  wanted.  As  a  supplementai’y  batch  to  the  autumn-potted 
lilants,  select  others  which  have  been  wintered  in  7in  or  Sin 
pots,  choosing  the  most  vigorous  plants.  The  remainder  of  such 
plants  ought  to  be  reserved  until  the  general  spring  potting, 
when  they  should  be  shaken  out  and  treated  like  suckers.  Pro¬ 
vide  fibrous  loam  with  the  herbage  reduced,  or  if  used  fresh  it 
should  be  placed  wdiere  it  can  be  heated  to  140deg  to  ISOdeg,  so 
as  to  kill  the  grass,  and  any  contained  larvae,  and  when  torn  up, 
add  about  a  pint  of  superphosphate,  a  quart  of  wood  ashes,  and 
a  pint  of  soot  to  each  bmshel  of  compost.  If  the  turf  has  been 
laid  up  it  must  be  laid  under  cover  some  little  time  to  become 
dried.  Drain  the  pots  moderateljq  but  efficiently,  dusting  with 
wood  ashes  or  soot  to  exclude  worms,  and  keeping  the  plants  well 
down  in  the  iiots,  ram  the  soil  firmly  round  the  roots,  leaving 
sufficient  space  for  copious*  supplies  of  water  being  given  when 
required.  For  Queens  lOin  pots,  and  llin  or  12in  pots  are  suit¬ 
able  for  varieties  of  more  robust  growth.  A  temperature  of 
BOdeg  to  Bo  deg  will  be  sufficient  for  these  plants,  also  for  those 
l>otted  last  autumn,  and  80deg  to  85deg  at  the  roots. 
Plants  in  beds  about  to  be  started  into  fruit  must  not  have 
the  heat  at  the  -base  of  the  pots  over  90deg  or  9odeg,  or  their 
roots  will  be  injured.  If  sufficient  fruit  be  started  to  meet  the 
requirement.s,  later  successional  plants  may  be  advanced  slowly, 
they,  with  autumn-potted  suckers,  requiring  careful  watering, 
especially  where  the  heat  is  supplied  by  fermenting  materials. — • 
G.  A.,  St.  Albans,  Herts. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
EARLY  PEAS. — It  will  now  be  time  to  make  a  sowing  of 
some  approved  dwarf  Pea.  A  ivarm  and  well  sheltered  border 
should  to  chosen,  and  where  the  soil  has  been  thoroughly 
broken  up  and  exposed  to  the  fro-st  and  wind.  Before  sowing 
the  Peas  should  be  coated  with  red  lead.  Place  these  in  a  tin 
and  drop  in  a  few  drops  of  x^a-raffin  or  sweet  oil  in  order  to 
cause  the  lead  to  adheye  to  the  peas.  If  the  weather  is  bright 
the  trenches  should  be  opened  a  few  hours  before  sowing,  as  this 
will  warm  and  dry  the  soil. 
BROAD  BEANS. — A  planting  of  these  should  now  be  made. 
These  should  also  be  sown  in  a  sheltered  part  of  the  garden, 
and  where  the  soil  has  been  well  x^reiiared.  Give  them  a  good 
coating  ivith  the  lead ;  neither  rook  nor  mouse  will  touch 
them.  It  will  be  wise  to  sow  a  little  thicker  at  this  early  date 
than  Avill  be  the  case  later  in  the  season.  This  axix^lies  to  all 
kinds  of  seeds  to  be  sown  now. 
EARLY  POTATOES  IN  FRAMES.— A  frame  should  be 
Xilanted  at  once,  the  bed  having  been  x^repai'ed  as  advised  for 
Asioaragus.  Care  should  be  exercised  to  regulate  the  heat  for 
these.  The  heat  should  be  on  the  decline.  Give  the  frame  a 
sharp  angle  to  the  south  in  order  to  catch  every  ray  of  sun  and 
light  possible.  It  is  astonishing  the  difference  this  will  make  in 
the  growth  of  the  xilants. 
PARSLEY  IN  FRAMES.— If  there  is  any  doidit  about  the 
suiixily  of  this  indisxiensable  vegetable,  x>iovision  should  at  once 
