JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  21,  1904. 
Gi 
dry  some  time  before  nightfall.  This  is  important,  for  keeping 
the  trees  constantly  dripping  with  water  encourages  soft  growth, 
is  inimical  to  the  leaves  and  -swelling  cf  the  fruit,  besides  inducing 
gumming  and  other  ills.  "Water  used  for  .syringing  must  be  of 
tlie  same  temperatfire  as  the  house.  Ascertain  the  condition  of 
inside  borders,  and  Avliere  necessary  afford  a  proper  supply  of 
water.  Disbud  very  carefully  at  this  early  season,  removing  :a 
few  growths  daily  from  a  tree,  preferably  to  many  at  distant 
inteu’vals.  The  latter  practice  gives  a  check  to  the  roots,  and 
promotes  wood  growth  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit,  which  for 
lack  of  assimilated  matter  often  falls  at  this  .juncture  in  ccn- 
seciiience  of  congestion  cf  the  .sap.  Maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  oodog,  GOdeg  on  mild  nights,  GOdeg  to  Godeg  bv  day,  5deg  less 
on  those  figures  when  the  weather  is  severe  and  dull.  Ventilate 
1‘arly,  admitting  a  little  air  at  Godeg,  not  allowing  an  advance 
over  TOdeg  without  full  ventilation,  clo.sing  at  Godeg,  always 
excepting  a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the  house  left  constantly, 
this  preventing  a  vitiated  atmosphere,  and  secures  a  healthy 
condition  in  the  leaves,  which  enables  them  to  do  better  and 
more  work  in  the  daytime. 
SECOND  EARLY  HORSES. — Trees  started  at  the  begin¬ 
ning  of  the  new  year  are  expanding  their  flowers,  and  before  they 
open  it  is  well  to  make  a  close  scrutiny  of  the  trees,  and  if  any 
aphides  are  found  fumigate  to  exterminate  the  pests.  Great 
care  isneces.sary  in  fumigating,  as  the  organs  of  fructification  are 
easily  and  irreparably  injured.  Moderate  fumigation  or  vapori.sa- 
tion  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  will  be  sufficient  for 
keeping  these  insects  in  check  until  the  fruit  is  set.  Where 
there  is  an  excess  of  blossom  buds  draw  the  hand  the  contrary 
way  of  the  growths  along  the  under  side  of  the  trellis  or  its  back, 
■SO  as  to  remove  tho.se  there  situated,  thinning  elsewhere  with 
the  fingers,  leaving  the  best  situated.  Syringing  must  cease  when 
the  buds  show  colour,  but  damp  the  house  in  the  morning  and 
early  afternoon,  always  avoiding  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  See 
that  inside  borders  are  thoroughly  moistened  through  to  the 
drainage,  but  avoid  needles.s  waterings. 
SUCCESSION  AND  LATE  HOI^SES.— Finish  pruning  the 
trees  at  once,  dressing  them  with  an  approved  insecticide,  many 
excellent  kind-s  being  advertised,  and  secure  the  trees  to  the 
trellis,  always  allowing  ample  space  for  the  swelling  of  the 
branches,  and  leav^e  room  between  them  for  laying  in  young  wood 
for  future  bearing.  Fork  the  border  liglitly,  not  disturbing  the 
roots,  and  after  removing  the  loose  soil  supply  fre,sh  in  its  place, 
and  dress  with  a  sustaining  fertiliser,  such  a.s'  the  following  mix¬ 
ture:  Dissolved  bones  dry  and  crumbling,  three  parts;  double 
.sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia  (refined  kainit),  two  parts;  and 
air-slaked  best  chalk  lime,  one  part  ;  mixed,  using  4oz  per  square 
yard,  and  scratched  in  lightly  with  a  fork.  If  the  borders  are  at 
all  dry  the.y  should  be  given  a  thorough  supply  of  water.  Venti¬ 
late  to  the  fullest  extent,  except  when  frost  prevails;  even  then 
frest  will  not  do  any  harm  until  the  buds  show  colour.  Houses 
vvuth  the  roof  lights  off  need  not  have  them  replaced  until  start¬ 
ing  time,  or  to  iusure  safety  for  the  blo.ssoms. — G.  A.,  St.  Albans, 
Herts. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
PRUNING  DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.— In  a 
mixed  collection  of  trees-  and  shrubs  there  are,  of  course,  some 
which  need  cousiderable  pruning  back,  while  others  need  little 
or  none.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  where  gi'owth  has  ample 
room  for  free  extension.  Lime,  Birch,  Beech,  Oak,  Poplar,  Chest- 
nut,  Almond,  Thoni  ought  not  to  havm  the  bi'anches  pruned  back. 
'Ihinning  and  clearing  away  encroaching  lower  branches  will  in 
most  cases  suffice.  Elders  will  require  close  pruning  back  annu¬ 
ally  in  situations  where  they  have  a  limited  space,  but  where 
there  is  rooni  allovy  moderate  extension.  Clear  out  old  wood 
from  Deutzias,  Weigelas,  Philadelplius  or  Mock  Orange,  and 
regulate  the  young,  pruning  back  to  ripe  wood. 
PRUNING  EVERGREENS. — Overgrown  and  unshapely 
specimens  of  evergreen  shrubs  may  with  great  advantage  be 
pruned  into  a  better  shape.  Laurels,  Aucubas,  Euonymuses, 
Berberia  aquilifolium,  Ligustrum  ovalifolium  can  be  cut  back 
freely,  but  it  is  better  to  use  a  knife  or  secateurs,  manipulating 
each  shoot  or  branch  .separately,  than  to  prune  with  shears  which 
cut  the  leaves.  Rhododendrons  ought  not  to  be  pruned  now, 
but  after  flowering.  Many  dwarf  shrubs  seldom  need  pruning, 
.such  as  Veronicas,  Skimmias,  Box,  hardy  Heaths,  Lavender, 
Rosemarjq  Laurustinus,  and  Conifers  of  various  sorts. 
PROTECTING  TE^t  ROSES.—  In  the  event  of  very  hard  frost 
setting  in  it  will  be  neces.sary  to  afford  soine  extra  protection  to 
Tea  RQ.ses.  Dwai'f  Roses  may  be  readily  protected  b.y  earthing 
iq)  the  soil  round  the  base  of  the  plants,  or  importing  some  dry 
ashes  or  soil  round  them.  Standard  Tea  Ro.ses  may  be  protected 
b.y  placing  some  dry  bracken  among  the  shoots  of  tlie  head,  giving 
a  few  ties  to  keep  the  material  in  position.  Recently  ivlanted 
Roses  ought  to  have  long,  dry  litter  laid  about  them  as  a  mulch. 
.Wet  or  rotted  manure  is  not  so  suitable. 
HARDY  PERENNIALS. — It  is  not  quite  the  best  sea.son  to 
disturb  the  majority  of  perennials,  but  it  may  be  convenient  to 
lift,  divide,  and  replant  the  following;  German  Irises,  Helenium.s, 
jjorennial  Heliaiithu.'-:e.s,  Sedum  spectabile,  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
Chrysanthemum  maximum,  Helleborus  niger,  Hemerocallis, 
Polygonum  cuspidatum,  P.yrethruuv  uliginosum.  Periwinkle 
(Vinca),  and  St.  Jolm’s  Wort.  The  healthiest  portion  of  the 
various  clumps  should  be  selected  for  replanting,  whether  these 
are  found  to  be  the  outside  pieces  or  the  centres.  Good  cultiva¬ 
tion  of  the  ground  is  essential,  adding  a  liberal  admixture  of 
fre.sh  soil  mixed  with  leaf  soil  and  manure. 
PL.tNTS  IN  FRAMES. — Rooted  cuttings  in  frames,  such  as 
Calceolarias,  "S’iolas,  Pansies,  hard.y  Chrysanthemums,  will 
require  now  more  air  admitting;  indeed,  the  frame  lights  may  be 
tilted  and  left  so,  except  when  frost  jrrevails.  Echev'erias  winter¬ 
ing  in  cold  but  sheltered  frames  need  abundance  of  air  on  favour¬ 
able  occasions,  and  must  be  kept  dry.  Violets  in  frames  will 
begin  to  show  signs  of  increased  vigour  in  growth  and  flowering. 
Ventilate  when  po.ssible,  and  I'emove  .yellow  or  withered  leaves. 
Should  the  roots  refpiire  moisture  appl.y  weak  stimulants  in  the 
morning  of  a  jn’ospective  fine  day,  and  allow  abundance  of  air 
to  circulate  about  the  plants  in  order  to  dry  up  superfluous 
moisture. — E.  D.  S..  Gravesend. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editoe,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them,  to  unjustifi¬ 
able  trouble  and  expense.  In  naming  plants  we  only  undertake 
to  name  species,  or  well-marked  varieties,  and  only  six  on  any 
one  occasion.  Florists’  flowers  we  do  not  name. 
POTATOES  (W.  Scott). — We  observed  the  cutting  you  send 
from  our  esteemed  agricultural  contemporary,  and  since  you 
have  again  brought  it  under  notice,  we  -will  make  u.se  of  it. 
MANURE  FOR  MIXING  WITH  SOIL  FOR  GERANIUMS 
(J.  M.  Wh). — As  the  .soil  from  the  Tomato  boxes  and  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  pots  will  be  rich  and  contain  a  considerable  amount 
of  organic  matter  in  the  form  of  dead  roots,  we  should  say  that 
it  would  suffice  to  mix  with  the  compost  basic  cindei;  phosiihate 
of  the  finest  quality,  or  guaranteed  to  pass  through  a  sieve 
which  posses.ses  10,000  holes  to  the  square  inch,  1001b  of  which 
contain  about  171b  of  phosphoric  acid,  501b  of  lime,  GJlb  of 
magnesia,  and  101b  of  iron.  About  801b  of  basic  slag  is  the 
proper  quantit.v  to  u.se  per  cartload  of  soil,  or  11b  to  281b  of 
the  compost.  This  should  be  broken  up  well  and  the  basic  slag 
sprinkled  on,  afterwards  turning  once  or  twice  .so  as  to  assure 
the  thorough  mixing  of  the  basic  cinder  phosphate  through 
the  heap.  The  only  other  component  in  which  the  soil  is  likel.y 
to  be  deficient  is  potash,  and  this  would  be  best  supplied  in 
the  form  of  sulphate  of  potash,  say  one-fourth  of  the  amount 
of  basic  cinder  phosphate,  adding  to  and  mixing  with  the  soil 
at  the  same  time  as  the  basic  slag. 
APPLYING  LIME  TO  TOMATO  BORDERS.— TOMATO 
CROPS.— FUMIGATING  WITH  HYDROCYANIC  ACID  GAS 
(R.  L.).— Instead  of  using  slaked  lime  we  should  apply  a 
dressing  of  a  mixture  of  eight  parts  basic  cinder  phosphate  and 
three  parts  best  qualit.y  kainit,  at  the  rate  of  lib  of  the  mixture 
per  Square  yard,  and  fork  into  the  soil,  taking  small  spits  so 
as  to  mix  as  evenl.y  with  the  soil  as  possil)le  to  a  depth  of  about 
9in  or  lOin.  After  leaving  a  time  and  before  planting  the 
Tomato  iilants,  fork  over  again,  and  if  this  leaves  the  soil  too 
loose  it  ma.v  be  consolidated  by  treading.  Tbis  would  supply 
phosphoric  acid,  lime,  potash,  and  magnesia,  also  iron,  and  act 
well  by  the  free  lime  in  the  basic  slag,  or  the  organic  matter, 
as  well  as  being  prejudicial  to  eelworms  and  sleeping  di-seasq 
germs.  If  you  use  lime  we  should  not  apply  more  than  11b 
per  square  .yard,  slaking  with  the  smalle.st  quantity  of  water 
necessary  to  cause  fall  into  an  apparentl.y  dry  powder,  spreading 
evenly  and  digging  in,  mixing  as  evenly  as  possible  with  the 
soil.  You  do  not  give  the  number  of  plants  in  each  house,  and 
do  not  say  wdiether  one  or  two  crops  are  taken  during  the 
season.  In  either  case  the  crop  is  enormous,  and  quite  equal 
to  any  produced  in  the  south  of  England,  and  that  quite 
oxceptionall,y.  The  treatment  of  the  houses  with  h5Mrocyanic 
acid  for  white  fly  is  very  interesting,  and  as  you  say  succe.ssfully 
operative  on  the  pests  at  so  trifling  a  cost.  Could  you  oblige 
us  with  particulars  of  the  safe  using  of  the  gas? 
