42 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  14,  1904. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  mattei's  should  lie  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chahbers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifi¬ 
able  trouble  and  expense.  In  naming  plants  we  only  undertake 
to  name  species,  or  well-marked  varieties,  and  only  six  on  any 
one  occasion.  Florists’  dowers  we  do  not  name. 
DEFINITION  OF  SINGLE-HANDED  GARDENER  (E.  L.). 
— It  docs  not  mean  one-armed  gardeners,  but  gardeners  who 
are  classed  as  professionals,  and  who  manage  gardens  alone. 
Occasionally  they  may  have  assistance  for  a  brief  period,  but 
that  would  be  all. 
METROPOLITAN  PUBLIC  GARDENS  ASSOCIATION 
(A.  B.). — The  secretary’s  address  is  83,  Lancaster  Gate,  W.  The 
objects  of  the  association  are  to  acquire  parks  and  open  space.s 
tor  London;  the  planting  of  street  trees;  the  placing  of  seats 
in  parks  and  other  places ;  and  generally  to  bring  joy  into  the 
liv'es  of  the  thickly  populated  districts  by  providing  them  with 
places  for  rest  or  recreation. 
BOOK  ILLUSTRATING  AND  DESIGNING  FLOWER  BEDS 
ON  GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  (Working  Gardener). — We  are  not 
acquainted  with  any  book  that  gives  illustrations  of  practical 
lessons  on  this  subject,  and,  indeed,  all  that  is  reiiuired  is  a 
well  grounded  knowledge  of  practical  geometry,  and  this,  applied 
by  the  use  of  scale  and  compasses,  or  measurements  and  lines  of 
length  and  breadth  to  the  figures  proposed  to  be  formed  on  grass 
or  gravel.  All  figures  are  simple  modifications  of  geometrical 
problems  worked  out,  especially  in  the  case  of  octagon  and  other 
figures.  Geometry  is,  usually  included  in  works  on  mensura¬ 
tion.  in  fact,  as  an  essential  prelude,  and  consists  of  definitions, 
problems,  and  theorems  in  geometry,  of  which  Nesbit’s  is  the 
best.  It  is  published  by  Messrs.  Longman  and  Co.,  Paternoster 
Row,  London,  price  Os.  Unless  you  have  a  good  arithmetical 
education,  it  contains  matter  that  will,  for  the  most  part,  be  of 
no  u’se,  as  only  twenty-three  pages  are  devoted  to  geometrical 
theorems. 
FOIJAGE  OF  LILIUM  CANDIDUM  DESTROYED  FOR 
SEVERAL  YEARS  (Alpha). — According  to-  your  description,  the 
foliage  appears  annually  infested  with  the  Lily  disease,  which 
was  first  discovered  as  due  to  a  parasitic  fungus  by  the  Rev. 
M.  J.  Berkele.v  in  1881,  which  he  called  Ovularia  elliptica 
(■•  Gardeners’  Chronicle,’-’  September  10,  1881),  and  afterwards 
acquired,  it  certainly  not  being  an  Ovularia,  the  name  of  Botrytis 
elliptica.  It,  however,  is  the  same  mould  as  that  found  on 
Tulip  stems  and  other  parts  of  cultivated  Tulips,  and  named 
Botrytis  parasitica,  this  being'  the  conidial  condition  of  the 
fungus  and  the  resting  stage  attributed  to  Sclerotinia,  which, 
however,  has  not  been  observed  in  the  ascigerous  stage.  The 
disease  attacks  most  species  of  Lilium,  but  more  commonly  the 
White  Lily  (Lilium  candidum).  Rust-coloured  patches  come 
upon  the  leaves  and  buds,  though  most  frequently  on  the  foliage, 
as  if  they  had  been  burnt,  and  if  the  buds  are  attacked  they 
may  be  destroyed,  though  commonly  they  are  not,  yet  the 
flowers  often  become  imperfect  and  distorted,  and  the  whole 
plant  has  a  blighted  appearance.  The  threads  of  the  mould 
arise  from  the  creeping  mycelium,  and  arc  somewhat  branched  in 
the  upper  portion,  the  ends  of  the  branches  having  pear-shaped 
swellings,  each  bearing  several  conidia,  each  conidium  egg- 
.shaped  and  colourless,  and  attached  to  the  swollen  end  of  the 
conidiosphere  by  a  minute  peg-like  stalk.  The  conidial  condi¬ 
tion,  however,  is  not  produced  except  under  certain  favourable 
conditions,  such  as  moist  weather,  or  in  a  confined  position ; 
while  minute  sclerotia  are  formed  on  the  diseased  leaves  and 
stems,  this  being  the  resting  .stage  O'f  the  mycelium.  No 
remedies  have  been  sugge.sted,  or  even  tried,  to  any  material 
extent,  that  of  destrojung  infected  plants  and  bulbs  being  worse 
than  the  disease;  for  the  latter  does  not  more  than  cripple  the 
plant,  and  I  have  found  that  dusting  air-slaked  lime  over  the 
plant  at  frequent  intervals  has  a  good  effect,  commencing  with 
the  pushing  of  new  growth  and  continuing  at  times  so  as  to 
coat  all  the  leafage  with  the  air-slaked  lime.  Probably  the  good 
(  fleet  is  resultant  of  the  action  on  the  mycelium  in  the  soil,  or 
about  the  crown  of  the  plant,  it  probably,  commencing  or  capable 
of  leading  a  saprophjTic  as  well  as  a  parasitic  mode  of  life;  but 
upon  this  point  there  is  no  definite  data.  All  infected  stems 
should  be  destroyed  by  fire  as  soon  as  flowering  is  over,  and  the 
plant  freely  dusted  over  with  air-slaked  lime,  and  for  some 
distance  around  each  clump. — G.  A. 
ARTIFICIAL  IMANURE  FOR  VIOLETS  IN  PITS  AND 
FRAMES  (Alpha). — The  best  is  Peruvian  guano  of  any  we  have 
tried,  though  the  A’arious  advertised  fertilisers  are  excellent 
when  applied  according  to  the  instructions.  The  guano  must 
not  be  used  over  the  foliage,  nor  even  sprinkled  on  the  soil, 
unless  this  be  lightly  stirred,  so  as  to  cover  the  guano,  as 
contact  with  leafage  or  flower  buds  is  dfsastrous,  and  the 
ammonia  arising  from  the  guano  will  scorch  them  when  the 
frame  or  pit  is  closed.  Dissolve  loz  in  a  gallon  of  water  and 
strain  before  use,  applying  so  as  not  to  wet  the  foliage. 
Another  excellent  fertiliser,  but  dear,  is  a  mixture  of  two  parts 
phosphate  of  potash  and  one  part  nitrate  of  ammonium,  using 
loz  of  the  mixture  per  gallon  of  water,  and  keeping  from  the 
foliage. 
MEANS  OF  USING  BONES  IN  THE  GARDEN  (A.  C.  B.). 
• — The  best  means  of  using  bones  on  a  small  scale  is  to  take  a 
large  watertight  hogshead,  and  cover  the  bottom  with  about  bin 
deep  of  dry  soil.  On  this  put  a  layer  of  bones  of  the  same 
depth,  and  cover  them  entirely  with  wood  ashes.  On  these 
another  layer  of  bones,  then  wood  ashes,  and  sO'  on  until  the 
hogshead  is  full.  Leave  it  exposed  to  the  rains  all  summer  and 
winter  till  spring.  Then,  on  removing  the  contents  of  the 
hogshead  the  bones  will  crumble  to  iiowder  under  a  slight 
pressure,  and  form  one  of  the  most  valuable  manures  ready  for 
immediate  use.  Or,  convert  the  bones  into  .superphosphate  as 
follows:  Place  the  bones  on  an  earthen  floor  surrounded  by  a 
rim  of  ashes;  pour  on  as  much  water  as  the  bones  will  suck  up, 
and  then  pour  on  sulphuric  acid;  it  will  boil  somewhat  violently 
for  a  while.  When  this  has  .subsided  it  will  get  tolerably  solid, 
and  the  ashes  and  all  may  be  shovelled  up  together,  and  when 
sufficiently  dry  will  be  fit  for  use.  The  proportion  of  bones  and 
of  sulphuric  acid  is  five  to  two,  say,  of  bones  5cwt  or  lb,  and  of 
sulphuric  acid  2cwt  or  lb,  according  to  cj[uantity  of  bones.  For 
use  in  Vine  borders  the  bones  may  be  broken  with  a  heai'y 
hammer  on  a  thick  iron  jilate,  crushing  them  as  finely  as  may 
be.  They  are  best  treated,  however,  as  before  advised,  and  may 
be  used  in  supeiqihosphate  state  at  the  rate  of  3oz  or  4oz  per 
square  yard. 
PLANTING  WATER  LILIES  IN  A  RUNNING  STREAM 
(E.  J.  W.).-^It  is  practically  of  no  use  i^lanting  Water  Lilies  in 
a  running  stream,  as,  though  found  in  rivers,  it  is  only  in  the 
relatively  still  waters  that  they  thrive'.  If  the  current  is  not 
strong,  and  there  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  rvater,  say  2ft  to  3ft. 
with  a  fair  amount  of  mud  at  the  bottom,  you  may  plant  with 
a  certain  measure  of  success,  according  to  the  circumstances  of 
current,  the  less  the  better.  The  best  mode  of  planting  is  to 
run  off  the  water  and  form  hillocks  of  turfy  loam,  decomposed 
manure,  and  rough  sand,  abont  a  foot  deep,  and  twice  as  broad, 
and  in  the  centre  plant  the  Lilies,  placing  some  stones  at  the 
sides  and  on  top  so  as  to  prevent  the  soil  washing  awa.y.  Where 
it  is  impracticable  to  make  a  hillock,  place  the  tubers  in  baskets 
of  rich  soil  and  submerge  these  in  the  places  where  the  plants 
are  intended  to  grow.  May  and  June  are  the  best  months  for 
planting.  The  Yellow  Water  Lily  (Nuphar  liiteum)  and  the 
Stranger  (N.  advena),  also  yellow,  with  red  anthers,  thrive, 
either  in  still  or  in  running  water,  it  being  important  tO'  secure 
the  roots  well  in  the  positions  or  ba.skets,  otherwise  the  newly 
planted  rootstocks  frequently  float  to  the  surface  of  the  water, 
similar  remarks  applying  to  Nymphseas.  Of  hardy  Nymphseas 
the  British  Water  Lily  (N.  alba)  thrives  in  many  rivmrs,  but 
chiefly  where  the  water  is  relatively  still.  Other  varieties  worth 
trial  are  N.  Laydekeri  rosea,  a  vigorous  grower,  and  oiie  of  the 
best,  flowers  at  fii’,st  delicate  pink,  changing  to  rose  pink.  N. 
Marliacea  chromatella,  beautiful  clear  yellow,  with  bright 
orango  stamens,  very  fragrant,  and  produced  continuously 
through  the  .summer  and  autumn  months.  N.  Marliacea  ignea, 
crimson,  one  of  the  most  gorgeously  coloured.  N.  ocTorata 
gigantea,  large  pure  white  flowers.  N.  odorata  sulphurca,  large 
yellow  fragrant  flowers.  N.  tuberosa,  a  vigorous  growing  species, 
with  large  leaves  and  large  white  flowers.  The  last-named  and 
the  Nuphar  are  most  likely  to  succeed  in  running  water. 
RELATIVE  VALIl'lS  OF  COW  DUNG,  SHEEP  DROP¬ 
PINGS,  AND  SWINE  MANURE  (F.  H.).— The  following  table 
of  contents  for  1,0001b  is  demonstrative  : 
Constituents. 
Cow. 
Sheep. 
Swine. 
Water  . . 
S60 
C40 
veo 
Solid  matter . . 
140 
380 
240 
Jsitrogeu 
3-6 
7 
0 
Phosphoric  acid 
3 
5 
5 
Potash  and  soda 
2  2 
3 
6-6 
Sheep  manure  is  the  driest,  and,  weight  for  weight,  the  richest 
of  all  animal  manures.  Next  in  order  come  the  swine  and  cow. 
The  manures,  however,  depend  largely  on  the  litter  used,  .so  as 
to  retain  the  potash,  which,  in  the  case  of  the  cow,  is  six  times 
more  abundant  in  the  urine  than  in  the  dung,  and  shows  the 
importance  of  having  a  good  litter  that  will  absorb  as  much  of 
1  the  urine  as  possible. 
