40 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
January  11,  19C4. 
Seasonable  Plant  Notes. 
Cyclamens. — The  advantage  of  growing  a  batch  of  these 
useful  and  showy  plants  as  annuals  can  now  he  discerned,  as 
they  can  be  had  in  various  sizes  for  all  forms  of  decoration. 
Plants  carrying  three  dozen  blooms  in  Gin  pots  are  fine  objects 
for  the  drawing-room,  while  those  with  a  third  of  the  flowers 
in  3in  pots  are  always  useful.  The  November  sown  plants  are 
now  in  full  beauty,  and  do  not  require  stimulants  longer ;  those 
of  a  later  batch  now  putting  up  their  flowers  should  be 
encouraged  to  grow  strongly  with  occasional  doses  of  weak 
liquid  manure  or  some  approved  fertiliser.  Cyclamens  are 
impatient  of  too  much  moisture  at  the  roots  at  this  season, 
therefore  water  them  carefully.  A  high  temperature  is  not 
desirable,  or  the  blooms  will  last  hut  a  short  time,  and  those 
pushing  up  will  be  weak  in  the  stem  and  the  flowers  pale  in 
colour.  A  buoyant  atmosphere  with  a  temperature  not  above 
50deg  is  all  that  is  required.  One  great  gain  about  these 
anntial  Cyclamens  is  they  do  not  occupy  space  and  time  in 
attending  to  them  after  flowering  is  past,  as  they  are  thrown 
away  at  once,  except  in  the  case  of  any  special  variety  or  an 
extra  sized  plant  or  two  is  required.  The  November  sown 
seedlings  should  he  potted  off  into  thumbs  or  pricked  into  pans 
as  soon  as  they  ai-e  large  enough  to  handle,  using  a  compost 
of  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  peat  in  equal  proportions,  with  a  plentiful 
addition  of  sharp  silver  sand.  A  temperature  not  less  than 
Gdeg  is  still  desirable  for  them  after  potting.  A  pinch  of  seed 
sown  now  would  make  desirable  plants  to  follow  the  earliest 
hatcli.  A  moist  bottom  heat  in  a  temioerature  of  not  less  than 
G5deg  will  quickly  cause  the  seeds  to  germinate.  In  a  pah 
with  sandy  soil  is  the  best  medium  of  raising  the  plants. 
Primulas. — The  various  forms  of  Chinese  Primulas  are 
extremely  useful  for  decoration,  both  as  growing  plants  and  in 
a  cut  state.  The  colours  are  so  brilliant  and  chaste  that  almost 
any  tint  is  now  obtainable.  For  cutting,  the  double-flowered 
varieties  are  perhaps  the  more  useful.  All  sections  are  easily 
raised  from  seed,  and  give  good  results  the  same  year,  \\here 
Primulas  are  grown  entirely  from  seed  a  regular  sowing  at 
intervals  maintains  a  regular  supply  of  flower.  When  treated 
as  annuals  there  is  no  trouble  incurred  in  iireserving  a  stock 
for  next  sea.son’s  plants.  The  only  exception  to  seedling- 
raised  plants  is  in  the  case  of  varieties  like  the  old  Double 
\Vd)ite  and  its  improved  forms,  and  these  are  exceptionally 
valuable  for  cutting  that  I  advocate  a  stock  of  these  being  kept. 
The  first  pinch  of  seed  of  any  approved  form  of  double  or  single 
should  be  sown  in  February  in  sandy  soil  in  a  gentle  heat. 
Where  gardeners  err  in  obtaining  a  good  supply  of  plants  from 
seed  is  that  they  keep  the  soil  too  dry,  thus  preventing  the 
regular  germination  of  the  seed,  the  shell  of  which  is  parti¬ 
cularly  hard,  and  requires  moi.sture  to  soften  it  sufficiently  to 
ensure  germination.  A  sheet  of  glass  covered  with  moss  placed 
over  the  pan  does  much  to  increase  the  moist  conditions  of  the 
soil  and  seed,  encouraging  as  it  does  so  efficiently  the  condensa¬ 
tion  of  moi.sture.  In  the  case  of  flowering  plants  of  any 
section,  do  not  give  too  much  water  at  the  roots  at  this  season  ; 
they  are  impatient  of  stagnation,  especially  if  the  temperature 
in  which  they  are  growing  occasionally  drops  down  below 
40deg,  lOdeg  higher  is  more  congenial  to  their  welfare. — 
E.  M.,  Swanmore,  Hants. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
LIFTING  AND  ROOT-PRUNING. — This  work  should  be  at 
once  got  out  of  hand,  for  though  possible  of  accomplishment  with 
success  until  March,  the  longer  the  operation  is  delayed  the 
greater  are  the  possibilities  of  failure.  Moreover,  the  trees  that 
are  dealt  with  late  in  the  season  far©  badly  during  hot  summers. 
Many  large  trees  that  have  become  rampant,  and  need  root- 
pruning  to  check  growth  and  bring  them  into  a  fruit-bearing 
state,  should  have  the  operation  extended  over  two  years,  doing 
but  half  the  work  the  first  season  and  completing  it  the  next ; 
this  will  be  found  much  safer  than  wholly  lifting  large  trees. 
Youqg  bushes  or  standards  that  appear  to  be  making  growth  at 
the  expense  of  fruit  may  frequently  be  greatly  benefited  by 
replanting,  simply  shortening  any  roots  having  a  downward 
tendency,  and  removing  damaged  portions  of  others. 
PRUNING. — Like  the  above  operation,  this  is  best  don© 
immediately  the  leaves  are  down,  except  in  the  case  of  newly- 
planted  trees;  the  wounds  then  heal  before  hard  weather  sets 
in.  Wliere  not  already  completed  the  work  ought  as  quickly  as 
l>ossible  to  be  finished,  afterwards  raking  up  the  prunings  and 
burning  them.  The  ashes  from  these  provide  excellent  material 
for  mixing  with  the  soil  when  planting  young  trees,  or  for  spread¬ 
ing  over  the  surface  of  the  roots  of  older  ones.  For  the  latter 
purpose  it  is  useless  to  apply  them  in  small  quantities. 
THE  LEADERS  OR  EXTENDING  SHOOTS  of  young  fruit 
trees  should  not  be  cut  hard  back  year  after  year,  as  is  too  fre¬ 
quently  done.  It  is  pitiable  to  see  strong  growths  stubbed  back 
to  three  or  four  buds  annually.  The  main  branches  of  Apples 
and  Pears  should  always  be  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
asunder;  the  side  shoots  from  these  may  be  cut  back  to  three 
or  four  buds ;  the  growths  for  the  extension  of  the  trees  should 
merely  be  shortened  about  one-third  of  their  length.  Old  trees 
may  sometimes  be  brought  into  a  vigorous  condition  again  by 
gradually  eliminating  decrepit  branches,  and  by  generous  root 
treatment  inducing  young  shoots  to  take  their  places.  The 
pruning  of  recently  planted  trees  may  well  be  delayed  for  some 
time  in  February. 
RENEWING  OLD  ORCHARDS.— The  holder  of  extensive 
plantations  should  make  an  effort  to  renew  some  part  of  hia 
trees  each  year,  when  these  show  signs  of  having  passed  their 
best,  and  the  stage  when  remedial  measures  can  be  profitably 
applied.  The  old  trees  should  be  cleared  off  the  land,  having 
their  roots  grubbed  out  at  the  same  time.  Trench  the  soil  two 
or  three  spits  deep,  dressing  with  good  yard  manure,  ten  to 
twenty  loads  per  acre.  If  the  smaller  quantity  is  used  this  may 
be  supplemented  in  .spring  and  summer  by  one  or  two  applica¬ 
tions  of  superphosphate  and  sulphate  of  potash  mixed — from 
4cwt  to  Gcwt  per  acre  of  the  former  and  from  Icwt  to  2cwt  of 
the  latter.  Provided  the  land  drainage  is  efficient,  young  trees 
so  treated  after  proper  planting  will  quickly  assume  useful  pro¬ 
portions  and  return  a  profit. 
PREPARATIONS  FOR  GRAFTING.— Where  too  many  trees 
of  one  variety  have  been  planted,  or  where  unsuitable  sorts  are 
growing  on  healthy  stocks,  this  is  the  most  expeditious  method 
of  replacing  with  approved  varieties.  In  some  instances  it  has 
also  been  the  means  of  restoring  health  and  vigour  to  badly  con¬ 
ditioned  trees.  Notes  should  have  been  made  during  the  past 
season  as  to  those  found  necessary  to  operate  upon,  and  a  suffi¬ 
cient  number  of  scions  should  be  prepared  in  readiness,  where 
the  matter  has  not  already  received  attention.  Fairly  strong, 
clean  shoots,  as  well  ripened  as  can  be  obtained,  ought  to  be  laid 
in,  in  a  shaded  position  where  little  or  no  sun  can  reach  them. 
Some  authorities  recommend  burying  them  almost  to  the  tips, 
but  they  will  keep  quite  fresh  and  plump  if  heeled  in  three  or 
four  inches  of  soil.  It  is  well  to  tie  them  in  small  bundles  with 
correct  labels  attached. 
RENOVATING  OLD  TREES.— Many  old  trees  that  have 
fallen  into  a  weakly  state  are  suffering  from  a  lack  of  soil  fertility. 
By  pouring  liquid  manure  over  the  roots  at  this  season — in  the' 
absence  of  fro.st^ — much  may  be  done  to  restore  the  trees  again 
to  health.  While  the  soil  is  .saturated  and  the  roots  are  more 
dormant  than  at  any  other  time,  the  liquor  can  be  used  with 
impunity  at  great  strength,  and  its  effects  will  last  throughout 
the  year.  Mulching  as  far  as  the  roots  extend  with  rich  manure 
is  a  practice  worthy  of  commendation.  By  taking  out  a  trench 
around  the  extremities  of  the  roots  and  placing  the  manure 
therein,  the  food  is  brought  into  closer  contact,  and  the  re.sults 
to  be  obtained  are  naturally  quicker.  W^hatever  the  means 
adopted  the  present  is  the  time  to  act.  This  work  of  assisting 
old  fruit  bearers  calls  generally  for  a  greater  amount  of  atten¬ 
tion.  In  many  districts  fruit  trees  receive  little  or  no  manure 
from  the  time  they  are  planted  until  they  are  past  redemption. 
— J.  Wright,  Newent,  Glos. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES;  EARLIEST  HOUSES.— When  the  air  is  sharp 
and  cold  great  care  must  be  give’ll  to  the  ventilation,  for 
draughts  of  cold  air  cause  injury.  Some  ventilation,  bowevei-, 
is  necessary  to  prevent  the  leaves  becoming  thin  and  poor  iu 
texture,  as  in  that  condition  they  are  liable  to  be  scorched, 
and  to  fall  a  pi’ey  to  red  spider.  Disbud  when  the  pest  shows, 
for  fruit  can  be  distinguished  ;  tie  down  the  shoots  before  they 
touch  the  gla.ss,  taking  care  not  to  bring  them  do.vji  too 
sharply,  or  tie  too  tightly.  Stop  two  or  more  joints  beyond 
the  bunch,  not,  however,  acting  on  any  rule  of  thumb  principle, 
but  be  guided  by  the  space  at  command.  Do  not  burden  th.^ 
Vines  with  superfluous  bunches,  one  on  a  lateral  is  sufficient, 
for  overcropping  and  overcrowding  are  great  evils.  As  the 
bunches  come  into  flower  maintain  a  day  temperature  of  70deg 
to  7odeg,  falling  5deg,  however,  during  the  night,  and  keep  the 
atmosphere  rather  drier.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure  as 
required,  but  not  making  the  .soil  sodden,  as  this  often  hinders 
root  formation,  gives  a  plentiful  protrusion  of  aerial  roots,  and 
a  sappy  growth  with  shanking.  Outside  borders  must  have 
attention,  which  will  be  very  slight  where  they  have  been 
covered  with  leaves  and  litter  or  dry  fei  n ;  ljut  where  ferment¬ 
ing  materials  are  used  they  must  be  repleni.shed,  keeping  a  good 
heap  of  leaves  and  .stable  litter  in  the  reserve  ground  to  a'dmit 
of  a  supply  being  obtained  readily. 
