February  25,  1904. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
173 
WOKK.foi;.theWEEK.. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
STRAWBERRIES. — A  nmichiug  of  ricli  manure  may  with 
benefit  be  given  old  plantations.  Fork  between  the  plants,  bury¬ 
ing  all  weeds  as  far  as  possible,  without  undue  disturbance  of  the 
roots  of  the  Strawberries.  If  new  beds  are  to  be  made  the  plants 
should  be  got  out  at  once  whenever  the  land  is  in  proper  con¬ 
dition  for  working  upon ;  see  that  the  young  plants  are  not 
buried  too  deeply  in  the  soil.  Beds  planted  last  August  will, 
during  the  mild  winter,  have  become  weedy,  and  should  be  care¬ 
fully  pointed  over  when  dry  on  the  surface. 
FILBERTS  AND  COBINWTTS.— A.s  soon  as  the  female  blossoms 
of  these  are  sufficiently  developed  to.  observe  which  are  the  best 
branches  to  retain,  the.se  may  be  pruned.  Aim  at  an  open  basin- 
shaped  bush,  and  an  endeavour  should  be  made  to  suppress 
suckers,  which  quickly  choke  the  centres  of  the  trees.  Branches 
bearing  bushy  growths  are  more  likely  to  bear  a  number  of  nuts 
than  the  straight,  upright  shoots,  and  these  should  be  allowed 
to  remain  with  a  sufficient  number  of  catkins  to  ensure  fertilisa¬ 
tion  of  the  flowers.  If  catkins  are  scarce,  small  bunches  obtained 
from  hedgerows  of  the  common  nut  should  be  placed  in  the  trees 
for  a  few  days;  these  will  answer  the  pui'iDOse  admirably. 
CANKER  IN  APPLES. — Where  ofd  trees  have  become  badly 
crippled  owing  to  this  disease  it  i.s*  sometimes  more  profitable  to 
remove  thcan  entirely.  Provided  the  land  is  properly  jirepared, 
and  strong  young  bushes  or  standards  are  planted  to  replace  the 
old  trees,  there  will  be  no  greatly  extended  waiting  for  fruit. 
Badly  infested  heads  of  moderate  age  may  sometimes  with  advan¬ 
tage  be  cut  back  almost  to  the  main  stem.  Fre.sh  growth-  is 
quickly  produced,  and  in  three  or  four  years’  time,  if  generously 
treated,  such  a  tree  ma}-  be  but  a  slight  remove  from  its  best 
bearing  capacity,  and  for  some  years  the  new  branches  thus 
produced  may  remain  tolerably  clean.  Trees  that  have  only  one 
or  two  bad  wounds  here  and  there  may  be  differently  treated. 
The  old,  scaly  bark  should  be  removed  down  to  that  which  is 
healthy,  and  the  cuts  thus  made  should  be  dressed  with  Stockholm 
tar.  Efforts  should  be  made  to  prevent  the  fungus  that  causes 
the  disease  from  obtaining  a  hold  of  the  trees.  If  branches  get 
broken  the  fractures  ought  to  be  cut  clean  away,  and  all  cuts  in 
irruning  should  be  made  as  clean  as  possible,  to  avoid  giving  the 
pest  any  lodgment.  Where  trees  are  enfeebled  they  must  be  fed 
with  either  solid  cr  liquid  manure  ;  the  latter  is  the  best  to  apply 
to  large  old  trees  whose  roots  may  reasonablj^  be  expected  to  be 
.some  distance  from  the  surface. 
•  PRUNING  NEWLY  PLANTED  TREES.— Young  bushes  and 
pyramids  that  were  planted  in  autumn  may  now  receive  attention. 
Shorten  strong  growths  about  one-third,  weaker  shoots 
accordingly ;  any  which  threaten  to  fill  the  middle  of  bushes 
.should  be  removed  to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  their  bases. 
By  moderate  pruning  a  sufficient  number  of  branches  will  be 
obtained  for  forming  well-balanced  trees,  though  such  butchery 
as  is  sometimes  practised  on  young  trees  is  certainly  not  here 
advocated.  Gooseberries  that  have  not  been  pruned  owing  to 
bird  attacks  should  now  have  attention,  a.s  the  bushes,  are 
breaking  into  growth. 
PLANTING. — Though  advocating  autumn  planting  in  pre¬ 
ference  to  the  .spring,  there  are  causes  which  may  compel  planting 
now.  Whenever  the  land  is  dry  on  the  surface  the  work  may  be 
proceeded  with.  Plant  firmly  in  deeply  prepared  soil ;  the  young 
trees  will  be  benefited  by  a  mulching  of  manure  after  being  placed 
in  position. — J.  W.,  Newent,  Glos. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
LAWNS. — The  spring  renovation  of  lawns,  croquet  and  tennis 
courts,  bowling  greens  should  commence  by  giving  them  a 
thorough  sweeping  with  a  stiff  birch  broom.  This  will  be 
especially  necos.'^ary  where  manure,  .soil,  and  wood  ashes  have 
been  spread  over  the  grass  as  fertilisers.  Scratch  the  surface 
over  with  iron  rakes  for  the  removal  of  stones  hnd  other  rough 
material  prior  to  the  .sweeping,  which  i.s  best  performed  when  the 
surface  has  become  somewhat  dried  by  the  winds.  The  rake  will 
also  loosen  moss,  if  present.  Frequent  rolling  should  be  practised 
so  as  to  consolidate  the  surface  and  bring  it  into  condition  for 
the  active  growth  of  the  grass. 
FERTILISING  LAWNS. — Any  fertiliser  given  now  to  lawns 
must  be  in  the  form  of  very  fine  material.  Where  the  grass  is 
liable  to  be  very  poor  in  growth,  nitrate  of  soda  and  super¬ 
phosphate  may  be  given  now  at  the  rate  of  loz  of  nitrate  of  soda 
to  2oz  of  superphosphate  to  each  square  yard.  One  ounce  of 
guano  to  the  square  yard  is  excellent  in  moist  weather,  while 
C'lay’.s,  Standen’s,  and  other  proprietary  manures  may  be  given  2oz 
to  the  square  yard  in  showery  weather.  Soot  is  a  nitrogenous 
manure  of  great  fertilising  power,  and  may  be  used  at  the  present 
time  with  beneficial  results  on  the  growth. 
PLANTING  WALL  CLIMBERS. — The  ground  having  been 
prepared  some  time,  and  become  pulverised,  the  soil  Tinder  walls 
being  comparatively  dr^q  creepers  and  climbing  plants  may  be 
planted  to  suit  the  various  positions  which  they  will  best  fill. 
For  south,  south-we.st,  and  west  aspects  Ampelopsis  Veitchi, 
Jasmine.5,  Roses,  C.dematis,  Passifloras,  Crataegus  pyracantha, 
Wistarias,  and  Loniceras  are  suitable,  while  for  the  more  bleak 
and  northerly  position.s  nothing  surpasses  Ivy,  of  which  there  is  a 
great  variety.  On  sunless  walls  the  green  varietias  succeed  best, 
but  they  do  well  on  any  aspect.  The  silver  and  golden  leaved 
varieties  may  he  accorded  the  sunny  positions.  As  some  of  them 
are  .slow  growing  they  are  admirably  adapted  for  low  walls. 
ESTABLISHED  CLIMBING  PLANTS.  The  pruning,  tying, 
regulating,  and  training  of  these  should  fib  completed  ere  growth 
begins.  Spur-prune  the  laterals  of  summer  flowering  Loniceras. 
Thin  cut  Jasminum  officinalis,  and  now  that  the  flowering  of 
Jasminum  nudiflorum  is  nearly  over  cut  back  the  flowering  .shoots. 
Passifloras  grown  on  outdoor  walhs  may  have  the  growths  thinned 
out,  allowing  free  extension  to  tho.se  that  remain,  only  removing 
the  unripe  parts.  Roses  on  Avails  should  receiA-e  a  general 
thinning,  old  and  exhausted  Avood  being  removed.  Banksian 
Roses  should  not  have  the  twiggy  shoots  too  closely  reinoA-ed,  a.s 
floAvers  are  produced  freely  on  these. — E.  D.  S.,  Gravesend. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. — The  plants  raised  from  .seed  soAvn  at  the  neAv 
year,  and  tran.sferred  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  in  the  Cucumber 
house,  need  not  be  stopped  until  they  have  extended  tAvo-third.s 
up  the  trellis.  Train  the  laterals  about  1ft  distance  apart,  and 
do  not  stop  them  until  they  have  extended  about  tAA-o-thirds 
acrosns  their  allotted  space  sideAvays.  A  vigorous  groAvth  is  thus 
secured,  and  the  plant.s  Avill  crop  much  better  and  longer  than 
those  which  are  pinched  from  near  the  bottom  of  the  trellis  Avith 
a  vierv  to  early  fruit.  If  the  latter  practice  is  folloAA'ed  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  overcrop  the  plants,  or  the  groAvth  will  be 
stunted,  and  not  enough  made  for  a  successional  and  regular 
supply  of  fruit. 
WINTER  FRUITERS. — As  the  light  and  sun  heat  tell 
advantageously  a  greater  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture  is 
needed,  keeping  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  Avith  liquid 
manure,  or  sprinkle  the  paths  occa.sionally  with  it  at  closing  time, 
damping  Avith  Avater  in  the  morning  and  afternoon.  Supply  top- 
dre.ssings  of  fresh  lumpy  loam  at  fortnightly  intervals,  or  not 
more  distantly  than  three  Aveeks,  of  bone  superpho.sphate  and 
soot  in  equal  parts  by  measure.  Thin  the  fruits  Avell,  remove 
superfluous  growths,  bad  leaves,  tendrils,  and  male  blo.ssoms, 
stopping  the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  avoiding  over- 
croAvding.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  GSdeg,  70deg  to 
7odeg  by  day,  advancing  to  SOdeg,  Sfideg  or  90deg  from  .sijn,  and 
closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  early  in  the  afternoon  to  95deg  or 
lOOdeg. 
VINES:  EARLY  FORCED  IN  POTS.— The  Vines  .started 
early  in  November,  and  being  strong,  well-ripened  canes,  have, 
under  proper  management,  the  Grapes  in  an  advanced  state,  and 
soon  Avill  be  taking  the  last  SAvelling.  This  occurs  Avith  the 
colouring,  Avhen  they  SAvell  more  than  at  any  other  .stage,  there¬ 
fore  .supply  fresh  top-dressings  of  turfy  loam  or  lumpy,  Avell- 
decayed  luanure,  Avith  a  sprinkling  every  ten  days  of  super¬ 
phosphate,  three  parts,  and  one  part  poAvdered  saltpetre  mixed. 
This  not  only  feeds  but  encourages  root  action,  and  the  roots 
absorb  liquid  manure,  Avhich  should  be  supplied  Avarm  and  not 
too  strong.  Maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by 
damping  the  paths  and  Avails  tAvo  or  three  times  a  day,  especially 
at  closing  time,  Avhich  should  be  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  the 
temperature  to  85deg  or  90deg. 
STOPPING,  TYING,  AND  REGULATING  SHOOTS.— The 
groAvths  in  houses  started  a  feAv  Aveeks  ago  Avill  be  sufficiently 
ferAvard  for  disbudding,  but  not  attempting  it  before  the  best 
breaks  can  be  discerned.  The  operation  should  be  performed 
gradually,  removing  the  Aveakest  and  Avorst  placed  fir.st,  and 
ultimately  leaving  no  more  growths  than  there  is  space  for  the 
full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light,  always  retaining  the  niost 
promising  for  fruit.  Stopping  should  take  place  at  one  joint 
beyond  the  bunch  where  the  space  i.s  limited,  but  tAvo  joints 
ought  to  be  left  Avhere  there  is  room  for  lateral  extension.  Tie 
the  groAvtlis  as  they  advance  and  before  they  touch  the  glass, 
bringing  them  down  carefully,  as  they  are  liable  to  break.  AIIoav 
sufficient  room  in  the  ligature  for  the  SAvclling  of  the  shoots,  and 
Icoseir  all  that  are  too  tight. 
VINES  IN  FLOW  ER.— C  ease  syringing,  yet  aA-oid  a  very  arid 
atmosphere,  and  prevent  conden.sation  of  moisture  by  a  little 
ventilation  constantly  Avithout  causing  a  draught.  Temperature- 
GOdeg  to  (i.fideg  at  night,  7()deg  to  7odeg  by  day.  advancing  to>' 
