234 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  17,  lf.04. . 
S5il  top-dressed  with  short  manure.  Throughout  the  summer 
hoeing  was  frequently  practised,  and  one  dressing  of  superphos¬ 
phate  was  given  in  August.  At  the  time  of  writing,  March  7,  the 
plants  look  particularly  promising  for  this  year’s  crop.  I 
thoroughly  believe  in  the  practice  of  manuring  the  beds  when 
they  are  cleared  after  the  fruit  is  gathered,  instead  of  waiting  till 
the  autumn,  as  I  contend  that  it  is  during  the  summer  that  strong 
crowns  are  formed  which  contain  the  flower  truss  in  the  embryo. 
-  Old  Fucit  Gpovveu. 
- •  m%m  9 - - 
Dewsburj  Park,  Yorkshire. 
Arranged  on  each  side  of  a  span-roofed  house  there  is  a  col¬ 
lection  of  over  300  Primulas  in  huge  flowered  and  stellate 
varieties,  with  an  admixtni’e  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  choice 
Daffodils.  A  choice  collection  of  Dendrobiunis  suspended  on 
the  I'oof  greatly  enhances  the  display'. 
The  Primulas  are  strong  and  sturdy  plants,  many ,  of  the 
blooms  measuring  ^^in  in  diametei’.  As  a  selection  of  varieties 
may  l)e  interesting,  I  name  a  few  from  Messrs.  Sutton: — The 
Duchess,  a  novelty  which  is  becoming  well  known  ;  Giant  White 
and  Giant  Crimson,  both  veiy  fine.  Messrs.  Cannell  were  re- 
I^resented  by  Cannell’s  Pink,  splendid  in  every  way  ;  Cannell’s 
vVdiite  and  Miss  Doris,  a  fern-leaved  form,  white  flaked  with 
lilac.  The  terra-cotta  coloured  variety.  Mars,  from  Messrs. 
Ciil)ran  was  veiy  good.  Duke  of  York  from  Messrs.  Bull  was 
not  so  large  as  the  varieties  noted,  but  very  rich  and  atti'acti%^e 
in  colour,  which  when  fli’st  expanding  its  flowers  approaches  in 
colour  the  well-known  Henry  Jacoby  “  Geranium,”  and  a 
double  form  of  the  same  colour,  which  had  appeared  amongst 
this  batcji,  was  worthy  of  note.  Bull’s  Imperial  Blue  appears 
to  Ije  a  good  grower,  and  was  represented  by  some  ffnely- 
flowei-ed  ])'.ants.  A  chance  seedling  with  large  white  flowers, 
and  edged  with  lilac,  was  very  striking.  The  leading  forms  of 
Primula  stellata  were  represented,  the  best  being  Lady  E. 
Dykes,  white,  with  dark  foliage;  Princess  Eva,  also  white; 
while  Gipsv  Queen  was  the  best  coloured  variety.  The 
‘■Stars”  are  certainly  mseful  for  many  purposes,  but  when 
feen  in  clo.se  proximity  to  choice,  la)’ge-floA\ered  vai’ieties  they 
look  decidedly  less  satisfactoi’y. 
Among  the  Daffodils  Princess  Ida,  which  may  be  described 
a.s-  sulphur  in  colour,  was  pleasing.  Maximus,  Ai'd  High,  Sir 
Watkin,  Golden  Spur,  Sulphur  Phoenix,  Henry  Irving,  and 
Barri  Conspicuus  were  very  fine,  and  all  demonstrated  their 
fitness  for  gentle  forcing.  Amongst  the  Dendrobiums  were 
some  extra  fine  selected  forms  of  nobile.  Dendrobium 
l)rimulinuin  giganteum  was  very  striking.  Plants  for  future 
displays  comprise  a  fine  collection  of  named  Azaleas,  Calceo¬ 
larias,  Cinerarias,  Amaryllis,  Pelargoniums,  and  other  plants. 
It  is  greatly  to  be  regretted  by  horticulturists  that  the 
Dewsbui-y  Town  Council  do  not  provide  a  conservatory  in  this 
otherwise  well  equipped  park,  for  a  span-roofed  greenhouse  may 
be  perfect  for  growiiig  plants,  but  is  mo.st  certainly  inadequate 
for  properly  displaying  the  fine  batches  of  choice  plants  which 
are  iinnually  giown  by  ]\Ir.  Daniells,  the  energetic  superin¬ 
tendent. — S. 
Cultural  Memorauda. 
East  Lothian  Stocks. 
Seed  of  itast  Lothian  Stocks  and  Ten-week  Stocks,  if  wanted 
early  in  bloom,  may  be  sown  in  pans  or  boxes  placed  in  gentle 
heat.  When  the  seed  germinates  give  cooler  treatment.  They 
are  of  rich  interest  in  any  garden. 
Achimenes. 
Though  found  in  most  well-kept  gardens,  I  consider  that 
Achimenes  are  worthy  of  more  attention  than  is  usually 
bestowed  on  them  in  most  places.  Being  especially  adaptable 
for  liasket  culture,  they  foini  striking  subjects  for  conservatory 
decoration,  and  if  well-grown  continue  to  bloom  for  a  con¬ 
siderable  time.  They  are  also  useful  for  i)ot  culture,  although 
they  appear  more  natural  when  grown  as  basket  i^lants.  I 
consider  the  best  method  is  to  start  the  conns  in  sand,  in  a 
temperature  of  from  (iodeg  to  70deg  Fahr.,  placing  the  pans, 
in  which  the  conns  .should  be  placed,  close  to  the  glass  to 
prevent  them  becoming  “  spindly.”  When  about  2in  high 
they  should  be  tran.splanted  into  the  ha.skets  filled  with  soil, 
L'omposed  of  equal  portions  of  loam  and  peat,  with  enough 
sand  to  keep  it  open,  placing  a  .suitable  number  of  plants  in 
each  according  to  the  size  of  the  ha.sket,  also  pricking  some 
in  round  the  sides.  They  should  then  be  grown  on  in  a  slightly 
lower  temperature,  allowing  the  outside  plants  to  trail  over 
the  sides  and  tying  the  centre  ones  to  .sticks.  When  com¬ 
mencing  to  bloom  they  should  be  removed  to  a  cooler  house 
nr  comservatory,  and  if  necessary  fed  a  little.  When  showing 
signs  of  ri[)ening  off  water  .should  be  giadually  withheld,  and 
when  this  process  is  completed  they  should  be  stored  away  in 
sand  in  a  dry  and  fro.st-proof  position.  For  pot  culture  six 
or  eight  plants  to  a  (Jin  pot  is  advisable,  taking  care  that  the 
drainage  is  perfect. — E.  B.,  South  Berks. 
Dahlia  Culture. 
If  the  Dahlia  tubers  have  not  yet  been  started  no  time  ought 
to  be  lost  in  doing  so,  if  they  are  wanted  for  propagation.  They 
should  be  .started  on  a  half-spent  hotbed,  keeping  them  clo;-e 
until  they  begin  to  break  ;  then  a  little  air  should  be  afforded 
to  prevent  their  being  drawn.  So  soon  as  the  growths  are  about 
Sin  long  they  should  be  taken  off  with  a  iriece  of  the 
tuber  to  form  a  heel.  Take  care  the  cuttings  are  not  “pipey,” 
or  they  will  not  root.  They  may  be  put  singly  into  a  light  soil 
in  small  (JO-size  pots,  and  be  placed  in  a  bottom  heat  of  G.odeg 
to  70deg  F.  They  are  then  grown  on  under  glass  and  finally 
hardened  off  before  being  planted  out.  The  tubers  may  also  be 
divided,  but  each  part  must  have  an  eye  attached.  Cuttings 
struck  ill  summer  form  pot  root  for  another  season. 
The  ground  w  here  the  Dahlias  are  intended  to  be  planted  out 
should  be  well  trenched  and  have  a  good  dressing  of  manure  in 
winter.  If  the  manure  is  put  in  at  the  time  of  planting,  rank 
growth  will  result.  The  best  time  to  plant  out  is  the  end  of 
May  or  the  beginning  of  June,  in  rows  5ft  each  waj" — if  in 
a  bed.  When  planting,  just  cover  the  ball,  and  when  the  plant 
is  established  the  soil  can  be  pulled  around  the  plant  to  form 
a  bay  for  watering  if  necessary. 
8o  soon  as  the  Dahlias  are  planted  tliey  should  have. a  stake 
put  to  them  to  prevent  them  being  broken  by  rough  winds;  and 
when  growing  they  delight  to  have  liberal  ,  supplies  of  liquid 
manure.  Thinning  out  is  generally  desirable  when  large  blooms 
are  required,  and  blooms  must  be  protected  from  winds,  storms, 
and  hot  sun  if  they  are  to  be  kept  back  for  show.  The  top  of  a 
handlight  may  he  used  for  this  protection,  or  card  boxes  answer 
the  purpose  if  the  former  is  not  obtainable. 
The  greatest  enemy  to  the  buds  is  the  earwig,  but  a  pot  half 
filled  with  moss  placed  on  the  top  of  the  .stakes  and  searched 
daily  will  be  the  means  of  catching  a  great  number  of  these 
insects.  When  the  frost  destroys  the  foliage  it  is  then  necessary 
to  cut  down  the  stems  to  about  six  inches  and  to  lift  the  tuber. 
Do  this  carefully,  and  dry  them  slightly  before  storing  them  in 
a  dry,  frost-proof  place  ;  cover  them  with  a  thin  layer  of  dry 
leaves  to  be  sure  of  protection.  They  .should  be  sqen  to  .several 
times  during  the  winter  montlrs,  to  see  they  are  not  rotting. 
— G.  B.,  Berks. 
Gardenias. 
Gardenias  are  now  showing  their  flower  buds,  and  will  require 
a  little  feeding.  I  find  that  Clay’s  fertiliser  is  a  very  good  stimu¬ 
lant,  with  a  change  to  Bentley’s  Rose  and  Carnation  manure  ; 
also,  soot  water.  The  pots,  being  full  of  roots,  require  ample 
feeding  to  produce  large  and  beautiful  fl.owers’.  A  few  waterings 
of  these  manures  will  give  the  plants  a  healthy  appearance,  with 
dark  green,  leathery  foliage.  I  find  the  following  a  irery  good 
way  to  grow  the.'e  plants;  Take  the  cuttings  in  March,  inserting 
four  into  a  small  “  60’s  ”  round  the  edge  of  the  pot,  and  use  a  light 
compost  of  half  loam  and  half  leaf  soil,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of 
silver  sand.  Place  them  in  a  propagating  case  or  a  handlight, 
and  they  will  soon  root.  Now  pot  them  off'  singly  in  “60’s,”  at 
the  same  time  pinching  the  tops  out.  . 
By  June  pot  them  on  again  into  “48’s,”  using  nice  fibrous 
loam,  a  little  leaf  soil,  peat,  and  silver  .sand.  Keep  the  plants 
in  a  stove  temperature,  and  during  the  winter  months  maintain 
them  well  on  the  dry  side,  as  great  care  must  be  given  to  the 
watering.  By  January  and  February  they  will  have  formed  their 
buds,  and  so  soon  as  they  have  flowered  cut  them  clown  to  about 
four  inches;  water  very  carefully,  aud  keep  them  well  syringed. 
They  will  break  more  quickly  if  plenty  of  moisture  is  kept  about, 
witli  the  thermometer  at  70deg  by  day  and  (iodeg  by  night. 
Early  in  April  they  will  be  ready  for  repotting.  Shake  them 
well  out  and  pot  them  into  8-inch  pots,  using  three  parts  good 
fibrous  loam  and  one  part  leaf  soil  ancl  peat,  with  a  good 
sprinkling  of  silver  sand.  Pot  firmly  and  they  will  .soon  make 
fine  specimens.  Stake  them  out  as  required.  By  August  and 
September  they  will  have  sufficient  rootage  for  amirlc  feeding, 
and  during  the  next  three  months  clear,  soft,  tepid  water  only 
must  he  used,  giving  a  good  soaking  about  once  a  fortnight. 
Plants  grown  in  this  way  will  flower  freely  and  give  every 
satisfaction.  After  the  second  or  third  year’s  flowering  throw 
them  away  and  keep  up  a  young  .stock  of  healthy  plants.  As 
every  gardener  knows,  the  Gardenia  is,  like  the  Stephanotis, 
subject  to  mealy  bug.  I  find  very  little  trouble  in  this  respect. 
Fi'om  the  cuttings  you  must  keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  this  little 
pest,  and  at  the  least  signs  of  bug  I  find  the  following  a  very 
good  remedy  ;  Mix  in  every  four  gallons  of  soft  warm  water  a 
fiO-sized  pot  of  paraffin  oil ;  keep  well  .stirred  ;  they  lay  the  plants 
down  and  syringe  them  well  on  all  sides.  A  few  dressings  in 
this  manner,  and  you  will  have  practically  little  or  no  bug  or 
scale,  and  the  plants  will  be  none  the  worse.  As  the  paraffin 
always  flows  on  the  surface  the  whole  must  be  kept  well  mixed 
up.  All  stove  plants  I  syringe  in  the  same  way,  even  after 
sponging,  in  order  to  give  them  a-  bright  appearance. — 'V^'.  B. 
