March  24,  1904. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
263 
the  stigmas  of  tlie  caps  and  glutinous  substance,  choosing  a  warm 
part  of  the  dar  after  the  house  has  been  freely  ventilated.  This 
will  render  them  fitted  for  fertilisation,  which  should  be  effected 
by  brushing  them  over  with  a  brush  surcharged  with  pollen,  taken 
from  such  free-setting  sorts  as  Black  Hamburghs  and  Alicante. 
SUCCESSION  HOUSES  :  DISBUDDING.— It  is  not  good 
practice  to  attempt  this  until  the  bunches  appear  in  the  points  of 
the  .shoots,  and  then  it  ought  not  to  be  done  in  a  hurry,  or  a 
large  reduction  be  made  at  one  time.  Proceed  gradually  and 
with  determination,  so  as  to  give  as  little  check  to  thei  Vines  as 
possible.  Retain  no  more  shoots  than  can  have  the  full  benefit 
of  light,  as  crowding  is  one  of  the  greatest  evils  in  Vine  culture. 
Allow  for  the  due  extension  of  the  laterals,  for  on  this  depends 
.sustained  root  activity  till  the  crop  is  perfected. 
STOPPING  THE  GROWTHS. — The  bearing  shoots  should  be 
allowed  to  extend  in  accordance  to  the  space.  If  this  is  limited, 
the  Vines  being  close,  the  shoot  may  be  pinched  at  the  first  joint 
beyond  the  bunch,  and  this  should  be  done  when  the  leaf  at  the 
joint  is  the  size  of  a  penny.  If  there  is  a  moderate  space  between 
the  rods,  allow  two*  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  When  there 
is  abundance  of  room  allow  the  shoots  with  fruit  to  extend  three 
or  four  leaves  beyond  the  bunches  before  taking  out  their  points, 
doing  this  at  the  stopping  joint  when  the  leaf  is  the  siije  of  a 
farthing.  Eaterals  will  push  from  the  joints  both  above  and 
below’  bunches.  Those  below-  may  be  rubbed  off,  except  from  the 
two  lowest  leave, s,  which  should  be  pinched  at  the  joint ;  or  if 
there  is  a  good  distance  between  the  spurs  in  the  rods,  all  the 
laterals  below'  the  bunch  may  remain,  pinching'  to  one  leaf.  But 
laterals  above  the  bunch  may  either  be  pinched  to  one  joint  or 
allowed  to  extend  until  available  space  is  fairly  furnished;  then 
pinch,  and  keep  them  within  bounds  afterwards  by  stopping  to 
one  joint  as  made. 
THINNING. — This  is  a  very  important  operation  both  as 
regards  the  bunches  and  berries.  Remove  all  duplicate  bunches 
as  well  as  superfluous  before  they  flower.  .Setting  depends  on  the 
good  form  of  the  bunch,  and  on  its  receiving  the  essentials  of 
fertilisation.  Free  setting  varieties  may  have  the  berries  thinned 
as  soon  as  they  are  out  of  flower,  but  Muscats  and  other  shy¬ 
setting  varieties  should  not  be  thinned  until  it  is  seen  w'hich 
berries  have  been  properly  fertilised  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling.  Every  berry  should  have  room  to  .swell  wuthout 
becoming  wedged,  and  yet  leave  enough  berries  to  insure  the 
bunch  retaining  its  firm  cut. 
WATERING :  FEEDING  AND  MULCHING.— Until  the 
Vines  are' in  leaf  the.y  require  very  moderate  supplies  of  water, 
sufficient  onlj'  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  but  when  the  leaves  are 
full  sized,  the  evaporation  from  them  is  considerable,  and  from 
that  time  tintil  the  fruit  ripens  they  must  not  lack  water  at  the 
roots. _  It  is  difficult  to  state  how  often  the  borders  will  need 
watering,  through  their  being  so  variable  in  dimension  and 
formation.  A  narrow  border  will  require  watering  twice  as  often 
as  one  double  the  v/idth,  assuming  the  Vines  to  be  equally 
extended  and  ci'opped,  while  a  border  of  loose  material  will  need 
water  much  more  frequently  than  ore  formed  of  firm,  retentive 
loam.  Consequently,  the  grower  must  be  guided  by  the  sta'e  of 
the  Vines  in  ro-lation  to  the  rooting  area,  and  have  due  regard  to 
the  weather,  as  water  will  be  required  much  oftener  in  hot,  dry 
weather  than  when  cold  and  dull.  The  proper  procedure  is  to 
examiiiG  the  border,  and  when  water  is  necessary  give  it 
abundantly.  Surface  dressings  of  artificfal  fertilisers  are  of  much 
benefit  for  the  health  of  the  Vines,  and  the  swelling  and  perfecting 
of  their  crops.  There  are  several  advertised  which  are-  excellent, 
and  may  be  applied,  according  to  the  instructions,  at  intervals  of 
three  to  six  weeks.  A  dressing  may  be  given  as  scon  as  the 
Vines  start  into  growth,  a  .second  when  they  are  going  out  of 
blossom,  another  after  the  Grapes  have,  been  thinned,  a  fourth 
during  stoning,  and  a  final  one  v.dien  the  Grapes  comiucuce 
colouring  and  are  taking  the  last  swelling. 
LIQUID  MANURE  is  more  prompt  in  action  than  a  top¬ 
dressing,  and  may  be  supplied  whenever  watering  is  required, 
taking  carfe  that  it  is  not  too  strong,  and  is  warmed  to  the  mean 
temirerature  of  the  house.  Vines  restricted  to  narrow  borders 
will  need  higher  feeding  than  those  with  large  rooting  areas, 
affording  liquid  manure  whenever  water  is  requisite,  but  it  is  well 
to  change  the  food  occasionally.  A  mulching  of  short,  sweet, 
lumpy  manure,  as  stable  litter  freed  from  straw,  about  an  inch 
thick,  and  added  to  from  time  to  time,  so  as  to  maintain  that 
thickness,  is  excellent  for  ordinary  borders,  but  tho.se  composed 
of  light  porous  materials  should  have  a  mulching  of  well-decavcd 
manure,  as  it  lies  closer,  and  the  roots  of  the  Vines  are  aDracted 
to  it  through  its  retaining  moistnre  better  and  longer.--  G.  A., 
.St.  Albans,  Herts. 
Tlie  Flower  Garden. 
CARNATIONS. — Strong  plants  of  self  and  border  varieties 
which  have  been  wintered  as  rooted  layers  in  frame,s  or  pots 
under  glass  may.  as  soon  as  the.v  are  duly  hardened,  be  planted 
out  in  .sirecially  prepared  beds  or  groups  in  the  borders.  They 
veil!  succeed  best  in  fairly  strong,  loamy  soil  mixed  v,  ith  a  dressing 
of  decayed  manure,  adding  a  sprinkling  of  soot  and  bone  manure. 
Plant  firmly.  Rooted  layers  planted  in  autumn  will  need  the 
soil  making  firm  about  them,  stirring  also  the  spaces  between  the 
plants,  and  sprinkling  over  with  soot.  A  good  top-dres.sing  of 
rich  soil  will  much  improve  older  established  plants,  and  assist 
them  in  producing  a  profusion  of  bloom. 
SOWING  CARNATION  SEEDS. — It  is  a  good  plan  to  sow  a 
few  seeds  every  year  to  raise  plants  which  will  flower  well  the 
.succeeding  year.  They  prove  interesting,  and  are  valuable  for 
cutting.  Fill  pans  with  light  sandy  soil,  water,  drain,  then 
sow  the  seeds,  which  cover  lightly  with  soil.  Over  the  pan  lay  a 
square  of  glass,  and  place  in  a  greenhouse  or  frame,  maintaining 
the  soil  moist.  If  kept  close  the  seed  will  germinate  without 
artificial  heat,  and  the  seedlings  kept  near  the  glas.s  in  an  airy 
position  will  become  sturdy.  They  may  then  be  potted  into  2^in 
pots,  keeping  them  in  frames  until  still  stronger  established, 
and  they  are  ready  for  planting  in  flowering  positions.  This  may 
be  done  early  in  the  autumn,  or  sooner  if  the  plants  are  ready. 
SEEDLING  BEDDING  PLANTS. — Attention  must  be  given 
to  .seedling  bedding  plants  raised  in  heat.  Do  not  allow  them  to 
remain  too-  long  in  a  high  temperature  after  germination,  but 
transfer  as  soon  as  possible  to  a  verj'  light  position  near  the  glass 
in  an  ordinary  greenhouse  so  as  to  encourage  a  stocky  growth. 
Some  of  the  earliest  raised  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  boxes 
placed  in  a  warm  frame  until  established,  when  give  cooler  treat¬ 
ment.  Lobelias,  Ageratums,  and  Pentstemons  will  come  under 
this  head.  Propagate  stocks  of  Heliotrope,  Geranium,  Meseni- 
bryanthemum,  Iresine,  Coleus  by  cuttings.  Stock  plants  of 
Lobelia  may  be  divided  and  potted  or  boxed  now.  forming  good 
tufts.  Plenty  of  frame  room  should  be  provided  for  hardening 
off  boxes  and  pots  of  seedlings,  and  for  the  general  growth  of  a 
variety  of  .subjects. 
BEDDING  GERANIUMS. — The  stock  of  rooted  cuttings  in 
pots  and  boxes  must  be  potted  off  singly  in  Sin  pot.s.  One  crock 
will  do  for  drainage,  and  over  that  a  piece  of  turf  or  the  rough 
portions  of  the  compost,  which  may  consist  chiefly  of  loam,  with  a 
little  decomposed  manure  and  sand  added.  Stand  the  paatted 
plants  in  the  greenhouse,  giving  but  little  water  for  a  few  days. 
When  fairly  established  they  will  require  moving  to  a  frame.  If 
the  stock  of  any  variety  is  not  large  enough,  and  buttings  are 
procurable  from  old  plants,  these  may  be  inserted  now  either 
singly  in  small  pots  or  round  the  edges  of  others,  using  sandy 
compost.  They  will  endure  a  rather  dry  heat,  in  which  they  will 
soon  root,  afterwards  receiving  the  ordinary  treatment  of  estab¬ 
lished  plants. 
ECHEVERIAS. — Echeveria  secunda  glauca  which  having  been 
preserved  successfullj'  through  the  winter  in  cool,  dry  frames, 
may  be  overhauled,  and  the  offsets  taken  off.  planting  these 
closely  together  in  any  cool,  sheltered  position  where  slight  pro¬ 
tection  may  be  given  them  from  morning  frosts.  Any  kind  of 
soil  will  do  for  them,  preferably  that  which  is  loose  and  gritty. 
The  .smallest  offsets  will  grow  if  the  stock  is  short.'  The  older 
plants  with  strong  roots  of  undue  length  maj'  have  these  shertened 
conveniently.  Pick  off  all  the  dead  leaves  and  decayed  portions. 
Where  the  centres  are  decayed  the  plants  are  useless.  Water 
may  be  given  when  the  weather  is  fine  and  warm.  The  choicer 
varieties  of  Echeverias  may  be  kept  in  boxes  in  a  cco!  house  or 
frame  at  present. — E.  D.  S.,  Gravesend. 
Young  Gardeners’  Domain. 
The  Editor  welcomes  short  letters  from  under  gardeners.  Letters  should  be  con¬ 
fined  to  500  words  in  length,  should  be  written  only  on  one  side  of  the  paper, 
as  charly  as  possible  with  one  inch  space  at  both  top  and  bottom,  as  well 
as  at  the  sides,  d  he  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers  must  accompany 
all  communications,  not  necessarily  for  publication,  but  as  a  guarantee  of 
good  faith.  If  these  points  are  not  respected,  the  letters  cannot  be  considered, 
“Old  Boy’s  ”  Words  of  Cheer. 
Thanks  to  ‘‘ E.  E.  H.'’  for  his  letter  ou  page  221.  It  is  very 
encouraging,  not  only  to-  me,  for  it  must  be  of  incalculable  value 
in  quickening  an  emulative  spirit  which  exists  in  hothydom,  but 
needs  a  little  “prodding”  to  make  it  a  potent  factor  in  pro¬ 
gression.  As  your  correspondent  premises,  I  have  “trodden  the 
path,”  and,  being  well  on  to  the  far  end,  know  just  exactly  where 
the  turnings  az’e  (practically  all  in  the  early  .stages,  in  boTliydom), 
and  where  tlie  stones  lie  along  the  road  ready  to  trip  the  traveller 
up.  How  strong  is  the  temptation  to  preach!  What  grand 
sermons  in  stones!  The  one  must  be  resisted,  the  other  .shelved 
pro  tem. ;  but  all  the  preaching  I  have  been  responsible  for,  and 
all  the  stones  I  have  tripped  over,  or  avoided  through  seeing  the 
catastrophe  occurring  to  those  just  ahead,  can  never  have  the 
commanding  influence  of  such  inspiriting  letters  as  that  of 
“  F.  E.  H.,”  by  reason  of  that  long  stretch  which  lies  between 
me  at  the  end  of  a  gardener’s  path  and  young  fellows  beginning 
it  in  the  bothy.  It  is  now  .some  years  .since  I  started  prompting 
the  lads  with  memories  and  morals  of  bothydom — continued  at 
intervals,  in  some  shape  or  form,  till  now.  That  such  has  been, 
