Jlarcb  31,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
The  Culture  of  Pot  Roses/' 
(Concluded  from  page 
Tf  plants  from  tlie  open  ground  are  going  to  be  used  for  bloom 
instead  of  pot-grown  plants  (which  is  generally  the  case  with 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  strong-growing  varieties),  the  plants  should 
be  lifted  as  early  as  possible  in  September,  and  potted  straight 
into  24’s  or  lb’s  into  the  same  compost  as  is  used  for  the 
pot  plants  at  their  final  potting.  The  plants  should  then  be 
plunged  in  ashes  about  thr’eet-fourths  way  up  the  pot  in  an  open 
bed.  and  they  will  make  some  roots  before  the  frosts  become 
severe  and  stop  root  action. 
The  selection  of  varieties  of  Hoses  for  pot  culture  is  a  very 
open  (|uestion,  as  most  growers  have  their  favourites,  and  the 
oi)ject  for  which  the  blooms  are  required  must  be  known  before 
•suitable  varieties  can  be  chosen.  The  following  will  be  found  a 
goofl  selection  of  the  best  and  most  up-to-date  vaiieties  foi- 
general  purposes: — 
Foi!  Buttonholks.  — Catherine  IMermet,  T.  ;  The  Bi-ide,  T.  ; 
"W.  A.  Hichardson,  N.  ;  Queen  IMah,  China  ;  Madame  Hoste,  T.  ; 
ljil)erty.  H.T.  ;  General  Jacqueminot,  H.P.  ;  and  Sunrise,  T. 
PoR  Spray  and  Bouquet  Work.— Madame  Abel  Chatenay, 
H.T.  ;  Ivaiseriu  Augusta  Victoria,  H.T.  ;  Mrs.  Jolni  Laing,  H.P.  ; 
Bridesmaid,  T.  ;  I.,a  France,  H.T.  ;  Xiphetos.  T.  ;  Isabella 
Sprunt.  T.  ;  and  Liberty,  H.T. 
For  Vase  Work  and  Tarle  Decoration.  Frau  Karl 
Druschki,  H.P.  ;  Caroline  Testout,  H.T.  ;  Kaiserin  Augusta  Vic¬ 
toria,  H.T.  ;  Jfelle  Siebrecht,  H.T.  ;  IMadame  Viger,  H.T.  ;  Mil¬ 
dred  Grant,  H.T.  ;  Papa  Gontier,  T.  ;  Souvenir  de  Pierre 
X'otting,  T.  ;  White  IMaman  Cochet,  T.  ;  and  Sunrise.  T. 
For  Conservatory  and  Hoi^se  Decoration.  — Souvenir  de 
Catherine  Guillot,  T.  ;  Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Piince,  'P.  ;  Souvenir 
d’nii  Ami,  T.  ;  Enchantress,  T.  ;  Dorothy  Perkins.  Wich  ;  and 
Crimson  Hamhler,  Mult.  Climb. 
There  is  such  an  unlimited  number  of  varieties  suitable  for 
exhibition  purposes  that  it  is  almost  im])ossible  to  give  a  list  of 
the  best  sorts.  The  plants  should  be  taken  into  the  house  at 
least  a  fortnight  before  they  are  pinned  and  staited  into  growth, 
this  enables  the  soil  to  get  thoroughly  dry.  Full  air  and  no 
heat  should  he  given  to  the  house  during  this  period,  and  after 
the  plants  have  become  thoroughly  dry  they  should  be  pruned. 
If  H.P.’s  and  the  slower  growing  varieties  are  to  be  grown  in 
the  same  hou.se  as  T.’s,  H.T.’s,  and  the  more  excitable  or 
(piicker  growing  varieties,  the  H.P.’s  should  he  pruned  a  fort¬ 
night  to  a  month  (according  to  the  time  of  year)  earlier  than  the 
'Peas,  H.  Teas,  Arc.,  if  they  are  all  required  to  he  in  bloom  at  tlie 
.same  time.  The  subject  of  pruning  is  a  difficult  one  to  deal  with, 
as  one  should  understand  the  habit  and  character  of  each  indi¬ 
vidual  variety  to  prune  successfully.  The  pruning  can  he  divided 
into  three  sections,  the  strong,  medium,  and  weak  growing 
varieties. 
The  strong  growing  varieties,  such  as  H.P.’s,  should  have  all 
the  weak  shoots  taken  out  clean,  and  the  .strong  shoots  should  he 
cut  i)ack  to  about  four  eyes,  taking  care  to  leave  a  good,  .sound 
hud  at  the  top,  pointing  outwards.  The  medium  growing 
varieties,  viz.,  H.T.’s  should  have  the  weak  shoots  spurred  hack 
to  two  or  three  eyes  from  the  ba.se,  and  the  .strong,  robust 
shoots  should  be  .shortened  back  to  from  three  to  six  buds, 
according  to  theiV  strength  ;  the  stronger  the  shoots,  the  more 
buds  may  be  left.  The  weak  growing  varieties,  as  Teas,  will 
require  very  little  pruning,  except  the  uniipened  tops  of  the 
shoots,  which  may  he  cut  back  to  a  .sound  eye.  If,  however,  a 
strong  shoot  is  thrown,  as  is  the  habit  of  .some  varieties  of  Teas, 
it  should  be  cut  back  from  three  to  six  eyes. 
After  the  pruning  has  been  done,  it  is  time  to  turn  on  the 
heat,  gradually  at  fitst,  and  increasing  it  as  the  plants  break  into 
growth.  Full  air  .should  he  left  on  the  house,  avoiding  draughts, 
until  about  lin  to  2in  of  growth  have  been  made,  then  the  air 
must  be  taken  off  at  nights,  gradually  increa.sing  the  heat  until 
an  average  temperature  of  oodeg  is  reached,  and  this  must  lie 
maintained.  The  Hose  is  e.ssentially  an  air  and  sun  loving  jdant, 
and  if  too  hot  or  too  close  an  atmo.sphere  is  maintained,  the 
Idooms  will  come  small  and  thin,  and  vill  be  indifferent  iu  coloui-, 
150  over-rapid  growth  must  be  avoided. 
When  starting  the  jilants  water  mu.st  he  withheld  from  the 
Toots  for  a  time,  until  they  have  broken  into  growth,  which  is 
li'xcited  by  frequent  syringing  with  clean,  chilled  water;  and 
when  the  growth  has  once  .started  care  mu.st  be  taken  not  to  let 
the  ball  of  .soil  get  thoroughly  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  over- 
*  A  p.aper  read  before  the  Felthani,  Bedfont,  and  Ilanworth  Horticultural 
Mutual  Improvement  Society,  by  Mr.  Benjamin  K  Nettleron,  Bose  f;rower  to 
Messrs.  T.  S.  Ware  (1002),  Ltd. 
wat(‘ring  is  very  detrimental,  and  is  apt  to  bring  on  black 
mihlew,  so  obviously  the  ([uestion  of  i)roi)er  wati'ring  is  a  vtuy 
im])oitant  one.  Onci'  tlu‘  plants  have  liegun  to  grow  fiaudy, 
they  will  require  very  little  attention  except  watering,  syringing, 
anti  proi)er  manipulation  of  air  and  heat  until  tlu'  buds  begin  to 
appear. 
Al)out  the  time  the  buds  art'  appi'ariug,  tht'  plants  should  be 
looked  over  very  fretpiently,  and  the  points  of  the  shoots 
examinetl  to  .see  that  the  Hose  maggot  (Tortrix  Bergmanniana) 
is  not  in  evidence.  Should  it  be  making  its  appt'aianci'.  tlu' 
terminal  leaves  of  the  shoots  will  be  curled  up  and  a  tine  wt*b 
woven  round  the  leaves.  These  should  t»e  opened,  and  tlu' 
maggot  will  he  found  insith'.  It  is  of  a  i)ah'  gieenish  hut', 
spotted  black,  and  is  easily  passt'd  unob.servetl,  therefort'  it  is 
necessary  to  make  a  close  inspt'ction,  and  all  maggots  found 
should  he  picked  off  and  de.stroyed.  This  is  the  most  efft'ctual 
method  of  dealing  with  them.  Should  the  maggots  he  left,  they 
will  hole  a  hole  into  the  heart  of  the  lu'wly-formed  buds,  and 
thus  I'uin  the  flowers. 
Some  varieties  throw  a  single  flower  on  t'ach  stem,  while 
others  throw  up  a  cluster  of  buds.  The  jilants  should  Ix'  goiu' 
over  as  soon  as  the  buds  ai'e  formed,  and  where  two  or  more' 
imds  are  formed  on  one  siioot  they  should  all  he  carefully  jiicked 
off  exce])t  the  largest  or  terminal  bud  ;  for  if  all  the  buds  ar** 
left,  the  result  will  be  a  cluster  of  indifferent  blooms  instead 
of  one  good,  bold  specimen. 
Staking  is  a  subject  which  depends  largely  on  the  taste  of  tlu' 
grower.  vSome  of  the  stronger,  upright  growing  varieties 
require  no  staking  for  greenhouse  work, 
and  look  more  effective  if  left  to 
assume  their  own  naturally  graceful 
habits.  Varieties  producing  large,  j 
heavy  blooms  on  weak  wood,  as  some  ; 
of  the  Teas  do,  should  have  a  separate  ^ 
stake  to  each  bloom.  The  stake  should 
be  left  a  few  inches  longer  than  the 
shoot  when  first  put  in,  and  when  the 
bud  is  reaching  maturity  the  stake 
may  beXcut  off',  so  that  the  top  just 
reaches  the  base  of  the  bud.  A  gooil 
method  of  staking  varieties 
which  carry  their  flowers  uji 
right  is  to  put  a  good  stiff 
stick  in  the  centre  of  the  pot, 
and  each  shoot  can  then  be 
looped  up  to  it  separately ;  but 
staking  can  be  done  in  nearly 
any  shape  or  form  the  grower 
decides  upon.  The 
staking  should  be  done 
at  a  time  immediately 
after  the  buds  have 
set.  This  allows  of  the 
equal  distribution  of 
the  blooms 
around  the 
plant,  thus  at¬ 
taining  a  more 
symmetrical 
effect. 
Climbers  I 
have  not  as  yet 
mentioned,  as 
they  are  not 
cpiite  so  well 
adapted  for  pot- 
work  as  dwarfs. 
They  generally 
demand  more 
room  than  can 
be  afforded  to 
them  under 
glass.  The 
Dracocephaluni  speciosuin. 
(See  pa;;e  275.) 
pruning  is  very 
simple,  the  un¬ 
ripened  tips  of  1  •  .  i 
the  main  shoots  being  cut  off,  and  all  the  laterals  spurred  in  to  two  or 
three  eyes.  In  starting  climbers  it  will  be  found  advantageous  to 
place  the  })lauts  horizontally  on  the  ground  to  start  them. 
This  stoi)S  the  flow  of  all,  or  the  major  part,  of  the  sap  1'“' 
top  of  the  .shoots,  and  causes  breaks  to  form  at  the  base  and  all 
the  way  up  tlie  shoots.  When  about  two  inches  ot  growth  ha.s 
been  made,  the  plants  may  he  set  upright  again,  when  they  can 
lie  trained  up  a  good  stout  stake  to  form  a  iiillar,  or  round  three 
or  four  short  stakes  to  form  a  halloon.  and  are  very  ettective 
in  this  form.  Some  of  the  climbing  polyaiithas  and  \\  ichuraianas 
are  well  adapted  for  house  decoration  when  trained  in  inllar  or 
arch  form.  ,  . 
After  the  plants  are  well  .set  with  bud>,  leeding  will  hi'  toiin 
very  beneficial.  The  plants  should  not  have  any  artiticial 
