April  28,  190''. 
37:? 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENERo 
ONIONS. — Now  is  a  good  time  for  planting  ont  Onions 
which  have  been  raised  in  boxes.  The  soil  ought  to  be  trodden, 
and  the  work  done  finely.  If  tlie  soil  is  dry  on  the  surface,  a 
slight  damping  down  the  side  of  the  line  will  greatly  facilitate 
the  planting.  It  will  prevent  the  dry  .soil  from  falling  into  the 
hole  made  by  the  dibber,  which  is  often  very  annoying. 
THINNING  CROPS.  — All  crops  requiring  thinning  shonld 
leceive  attention  immediately  they  are  large  enongh  to  handle. 
No  greater  mistake  can  he  made  at  this  seasoii^than  to  neglect 
timely  thinning  of  Onions,  Parsnips,  Carrots,  'iurnips.  Spinach, 
and  such  lilce  crops. 
TURNIPS. — :More  Turnips  may  be  .sown  to  succeed  those 
sown  some  weeks  since.  Turnips  soon  become  useless  for  the 
table  in  hot  weather,  and  frequent  sowings  are  the  only  way  to 
keep  up  a  supply  of  tender  roots.  A  half  shady  border  is  the 
best  place,  and  the  .soil  should  he  rich  and  deep  to  produce  a 
quick  growth. 
SPINACH. — IMore  of  this  should  also  be  .sown.  This  will 
grow  better  and  prove  much  more  serviceable  if  grown  in  partial 
shade,  as  it  soon  pmshes  up  its  flower  spikes  in  warm  soil. 
PEAS. — More  Peas  of  the  Marrowfat  type  should  be  sown, 
and  sparingly,  noAv  that  the  soil  is  warmer  and  drier.  Place 
sticks  to  all  those  that  are  well  through  the  soil,  not  so  much 
for  support  as  for  .shelter.  It  is  astonishing  the  shelter  they 
will  afford  when  the  wind  is  in  the  east,  and  which  invari..il)ly 
happens  in  May. 
SALADS. — All  kinds  of  salading  should  be  sown  to  keep  up 
a  regular  supply.  Lettuces  should  be  pricked  off  into  rich  soil, 
and  be  frequently  sprinkled  over  in  warm  weather.  The  hoe 
ought  also  to  be  frequently  run  through  between  the  plants. 
Radishes  may  be  frequently  sown,  also  Mmstard  and  Cress. 
TOMATOES. — These  .should  have  special  attention  in'  .'iin 
pots,  in  as  Ioav  a  temperature  as  is  consistent  with  the  health 
of  the  plants.  Plants  from  lOin  to  12in  in  height  are  prefer¬ 
able  to  those  drawn  up  to  2ft  lor  planting  ont  the  first  week  in 
June. — A.  T.,  Cirencester. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
SOWING  HARDY  ANNUALS. — Hardy  annuals  sown  now 
have  a  better  chance  of  growing  away  quickly  and  .strongly 
than  if  they  had  been  sown  earlier,  when  the  soil  was  wetter 
and  colder.  The  dry  jjeriods  recently  experienced  have  serv'd 
to  bring  the  soil  into  good  condition  by  drying  up  the  super¬ 
fluous  moisture  and  absorbing  some  of  the  warm  sunshine. 
Consequently  a  good  surface  tilth  has  been  formed,  or  is  in  a 
condition  to  be  readily  broken  down  and  rendered  fine  for  seed¬ 
sowing.  Hardy  annuals  are  usually  sown  in  vacant  positions 
towards  the  front  of  flower  borders,  or  they  may  be  sown  in  beds 
set  apart  for  the  purpose.  If  in  borders,  sow  in  good-sized 
patches,  scattering  the  seed  broadcast.  Cover  lightly  with 
some  .specially  prepared  fine  soil.  In  beds  or  large  spaces  the 
more  convenient  method  of  sowing  may  be  in  drills  3in  to  Bin 
apart.  A  good  selection  of  hardy  annuals  consists  of  the  fol¬ 
lowing  : — Annual  Chrysanthemums,  Clarkias,  Coreopsis,  Corn¬ 
flowers,  Colliusias,  E.sch.scholtzia,  Godetia,  Larkspur,  iJnum, 
Lupins,  IMignonette,  Nemophila,  Nasturtiums,  Poppies.  A 
little  protection  should  be  given  the  areas  .sown  until  the  seeds 
germinate.  Should  failure  occur,  there  w’',l  he  time  to  sow 
again,  and  yet  obtain  good  plants.  As  the  seedlings  require  it, 
thin  them  out.  The  more  room  each  can  have,  the  finer  the 
plants. 
SEEDLING  VIOLAS. — Violas  from  a  .spring  .sowing  of  seed 
are,  or  will  .shortly  be,  strong  enough  to  prick  off  into  boxes. 
Afterwards,  when  .strong  enough,  they  can  be  placed  outdoors 
in  permanent  positions.  They  will  flower  abundantly  in  late 
summer  and  autumn. 
PRLMROSES  AND  POLYANTHUSES.-Plants  raised  from 
seed  flower  freely  the  fir.st  .season,  but  the  .seed  should  be  sown 
early.  To  ensure  success  in  germinating  the  .seed,  sow  in  Bin 
pots  in  the  gi'eenhotise.  They  mfty  be  grown  well  into  the  rough 
leaf  before  necessary  to  prick  them  out  into  a  frame.  With  good 
attention  to  affording  moisture  through  the  summer,  the  plants 
will  grow  to  a  good  size  for  autumn  planting.  A  packet  of  .seed 
from  a  good  firm  produces  .some  interesting  colours. 
YOUNG  DAHLIAS.  —  Single  Dahlias  rai.sed  from  seed  may 
he  potted  .singly  in  small  pots  in  a  mixture  of  liglit,  sandy 
material.  Keep  them  close  to  the  glass.  It  is  important  that 
the  stems  should  be  strong  and  the  plants  have  a  good  netwoi'k 
of  fibrous  roots  when  planting  out.  The  succeeding  growth  will 
then  be  satisfactory. 
LOBELIAS  FOR  BEDDING.-Seedling  plants  pricked  out 
in  boxes  and  advancing  rapidly  in  growth  should  be  topped  to 
make  them  bu.shy  and  prevent  premature  flowering.  Stock 
plants  wintered  in  boxes  .shonld.  if  not  already  dealt  with,  bo 
divided  into  small  portions,  replanting  in  light  soil  in  shallow 
boxes,  and  kept  moist. — E.  D.  S.,  Gravesend. 
Nephrolepis  Plersoni. 
This  beautifid  fern  is  now  in  Plnglish  nurseries.  “  Having 
heard  several  complaints  of  late  from  Iversons  having  trouble 
with  this  variety  sporting  back  or  throwing  Boston-fern  leave's, 
we  wish  to  state  our  experience,  hoping  that  this  unnecessary 
alarm  will  not  injure  the  popularit}’  of  this  beautiful  fern.  In 
cur  experience  with  several  thoiisand  Piersoni  plants,  we  find 
they  require  a  very  rich  soil  after  they  get  started  to  grow 
M  e  use  ordinary  Carnation  soil,  one-half  rotted  cow  manui  e. 
After  they  get  the  i5ot  filled  with  roots  they  will  .stand  feeding 
often,  and  at  no  time  should  they  be  allowed  to  suffer  from  want 
of  water.  Plenty  of  room  and  light  are  also  very  important.  It 
seems  to  be  the  impression  that  too  high  or  low  a  temperatuje  is 
the  cause  of  this  sporting  back,  but  we  are  satisfied  this  is  not 
the  case,  having  tried  them  in  temperatures  from  45deg  to 
75deg,  and  had  no  trouble  except  with  a  few  that  got  potbound 
or  stood  too  close  to  the  .steam  pipe  and  died  out  frequently. 
While  we  do  not  pretend  to  be  anthority  on  this  subject,  we 
would  advi.se  anyone  having  any  trouble  with  Piepson  ferns  to 
give  them  better  soil,  and  .see  that  they  never  dry  out.  You 
will  .soon  have  them  looking  different,  and  the  imperfect  leaves 
may  be  cut  off.  Piersoni  does  not  lift  well  from  the  bench  if 
very  large.  If  you  want  fine,  large  plants,  keep  them  in  pots, 
and  plunge  the  pots  in  soil  or  moss. — D.wis  Bkothers,  (in 
“  American  Flo7ist.”) 
- - 
Young  Gardeners’  Domain. 
The  Editor  welcomes  short  letters  from  under  gardeners.  Letters  should  be  con¬ 
fined  to  50U  words  in  length,  should  be  written  only  on  one  side  of  the  paper, 
as  clearly  as  possible,  with  one  inch  space  at  both  top  and  bottom, las  well 
as  at  the  side.s.  The  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers  must  accompany 
all  communic.itions,  not  necessarily  for  publication,  but  as  a  guarantee  of 
good  faith.  It  these  points  are  not  respected,  the  letters  cannot  be  considered. 
Fuchsias. 
The  old  plants  that  liave  been  stowed  away  during  the  w  intei' 
.should  now  be  shaken  out  of  their  pots  and  potted  into  a  size 
smaller  than  what  they  flowered  in  tlie  year  before,  and  the  soil 
made  moderately  firm  around  the  roots.  The  soil  that  suits 
them  be.st  is  two  parts  of  good  fibrous  loam,  not  of  a  clayey 
nature.  Good  material  is  usually  found  in  mole-heaps  ni 
meadows.  Next  we  want  something  to  lighten  the  loam  in  the 
way  of  leaf  soil,  say  about  one  part  to  two  of  loam  i  also  some 
dried  and  rotted  cow  manure,  rubbed  through  a  half-inch  sieve, 
with  a  .small  proportion  of  sand.  The  above  ingredients, 
thoroughly  mixed,  will  not  fail  to  grow  Fuchsias.  Cuttings 
.struck  in  the  autumn  and  grown  slowly,  will  now  make  fine 
plants.  If  they  are  tall  growing  varieties  they  should  be 
stopped  when  about  Bin  high,  but  the  dwarf  ones  should  be  let 
grow,  as,  being  naturally  dwarf,  they  will  break  out  below 
afterwards.  They  ought  not  to  be  left  to  get  rootbound,  as  it 
!  will  be  sure  to  throw  them  into  bloom. 
Fuch.sias  will  not  stand  a  very  cold  draught,  and  a  very 
regular  temperature  mu.st  be  maintained  ;  and  this  applies  also 
in  the  watering,  for  if  the  water  is  very  cold  their  foliage  will 
flag,  turn  yellow,  and  may  die.  Both  old  plants  that  have  been 
potted  up  and  young  ones  should  be  put  into  a  nice  heat  of 
about  .o.odeg.  An  early  vinery  is  a  very  suitable  place,  where 
!  they  can  have  plenty  of  moisture,  and  be  kept  well  syringed,  as 
it  will  help  the  old  ones  to  break  out  better ;  and  care  mu.st  also 
'  be  taken  to  keep  them  clean  and  clear  of  green  fly.  A  slight 
fumigation  will  remove  aphides  without  injury.  The  plants 
should  be  well  .syringed  with  clean  water  (the  chill  taken  off), 
and  it  is  also  important  to  keep  the  floor  and  atmo.sphere  moist. 
Fuchsias  should  be  ready  to  receive  their  last  .shift  about  three 
months  before  you  want  them  for  flowering;  and  a  cool,  airy  pit 
'  or  frame,  shaded  from  the  full  glare  of  the  sun,  is  most  de.sir- 
able  when  they  bloom.  It  will  then  take  .some  ti.me  to  tie-in  and 
stop  the  shoots. 
The  branches  must  he  staked  out  in  the  shape  you  want  the 
plant  to  assume,  the  stopping  to  be  discontinued  about  ten  weeks 
before  you  want  them  in  that  condition.  Liquid  manure  may 
then  be  given  them,  at  first  weak,  but  .slightly  strengthening  it  ; 
and  on  no  account  give  it  them  till  the  soil  is  completely 
exhamsted  and  the  pots  full  of  roots.  After  they  have  finished 
blooming,  it  is  be.st  to  put  them  outside  to  ripen  their  wood,  and 
also  better  for  .secui’ing  cuttings.  They  should  he  brought  in 
when  it  begins  to  get  cold,  and  placed  away  under  a  staging,  or 
anywhere  where  the  frost  will  not  hurt  them,  and  where  they 
can  be  kept  dry,  first  pruning  them  back  to  the  shape  you  want 
tiieni  for  the  succeeding  year.  AY.  H.  Lee. 
.  [This  letter  lias  been  held  over  for  some  weeks.  Ed.] 
