May  5,  1904. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
red  spider.  It  is  imperative  to  keep  the  foliage  clean  and 
healthy  for  as  long  as  possible.  Where  red  spider  has  obtained 
possession,  prompt  measures  should  be  taken  for  its  destruction. 
Recourse  is  .sometimes  had  to  the  .syringe,  which,  even  when  the 
water  is  clear  and  soft,  is  apt  not  only  to  more  or  le.ss  damage 
the  blooin  if  advanced  in  colouring,  but  to  leave  a  deposit  on 
the  berries  greatly  detracting  fi’om  their  appearance.  Sponging 
the  leaves  is  a  safe  means  of  preventing  the  spread  of  the  mites, 
and,  taken  in  hand  on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pests,  is  not 
so  tedious  as  it  .seems. 
HOUSES  OF  RIPE  GRAPES. -The  earliest  Vines  have 
ripened  their  crops  .somewhat  eailier  than  usual,  are  well 
coloured,  and  of  excellent  quality.  Maintain  a  circulation  of 
air,  and  allow  the  temperature  to  fall  to  6()deg  at  night.  The 
.soil  ninst  be  kept  healthfully  moi.st,  .so  as  to  keep  the  foliage  in 
good  condition.  Moderate  air  moisture  is  also  essential,  to 
prevent  the  foliage  prematurely  ripening,  and  it  benefits  rather 
than  prejudices  the  keeping  of  the  Grapes,  provided  the  air  is 
not  stagnant.  The  Grapes  are  liable  to  lose  colour  with  hanging. 
A  light  will  he  beneficial  in  helping  to  retain  colour,  especially  in 
Black  Hamhurgh  and  Madresfield  Court.  A  double  thickAfts.s-  of 
herring  netting,  or  a  single  thickne.ss  of  pilchard  netting,  placed 
on  the  roof  lights  is  sufficient.  It  is  also  desirable,  where  it  can 
be  practi.sed  without  crowding  the  principal  leaves,  to  allow  a 
moderate  extension  of  the  laterals,  which  will  tend  to  promote 
root  activity  and  assist  the  Vines  to  j-ecuperate  their  wasted 
energies. 
MUSCATS. — The  Vines  .started  in  December,  and  brought 
forward  gently  in  the  early  stages,  are  now  beginning  to  colour. 
Muscat  of  Alexandria  takes  longei’  to  colour  than  Madresfield 
Court  and  Black  IMuscat  (Muscat  Hamburgh),  and  the  berries 
of  Muscat  of  Alexandi’ia  are  liable  to  shrivel  unless  the  Vines  are 
well  supplied  with  water  and  nourishment  at  the  roots.  When 
these  are  provided  a  much  drier  condition  of  the  atmospheie 
may  be  allowed  than  is  otherwise  safe,  and  it  is  absolutel.v 
essential  to  good  finish  in  Muscats,  for  when  in  a  saturated 
atmosphere  there  is  danger  of  “.spotting,”  and  what  is  gained'-^ 
in  size  is  lost  in  colour  and  qualit.v.  Directly  the  Grapes- chaitgfej^ 
colour,  give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manurg,' fdl- 
lowing  with  a  mulch  of  sweet,  i-ather  .strawy,  material,  a  ebuple 
of  inches  thickne.ss  sufficing,  and,  being  dry,  it  will  prevent  too 
much  moisture  arising,  whilst  keeping  the  soil  moi.st.  Muscat 
of  Alexandria  is  liable  to  have  the  upper  berries  of  the  bunches 
.scorched  by  the  sun  when  the  Gi  apes  are  ripening,  which  is  due 
to  the  sun  acting  poweifully  on  the  epidermis,  whilst,  perliaps, 
though  imperceptibly,  covered  with  moi.sture.  As  a  safeguard 
again.st  .scorching,  a  slight  shade  should  be  provided,  ventilating 
early,  and  increasing  the  air  with  advancing  snn  heat,  hut 
allowing  a  high  temperatiire  by  that  means.  A  little  more  time 
is  required  with  the  shade,  but  it  well  repays  the  outlay,  as  the 
losses  from  .scoi’ched  Grapes  are  sometimes  considerable  where 
the  panes  of  glass  are  large,  and  when  the  weather  is  bright. 
MUSCATS  IN  FLOWER  .set  freely  with  a  night  temperature 
of  65deg  to  70deg,  7odeg  by  day,  and  SOdeg  to  Sodeg  or  90deg 
with  snn  heat,  always  with  a  cii’culation  of  air.  The  points  of 
the  bunches  should  be  kept  well  up  to  the  light.  When  the  caps 
of  the  flowers  are  being  cast,  it  is  advisable  to  tap  the  bunches 
lightl.y,  better  still  to  gently  go  over  each  hunch  with  a  camel’s- 
hair  bru.sh,  and  follow  soon  afterwards,  or  when  the' caps  are  off, 
with  another  brush  laden  with  pollen  taken  from  such  free- 
setting  varieties  as  Black  Hamburgh,  Foster’s  Seedling,  and 
Alicante  ;  the  influence  of  foreign  pollen  is  far  more  potent,  and 
secures  finer  berries,  than  impregnation  of  a  variety  of  Grape 
or  other  fruit  with  its  own  pollen,  which  is  often  inert  from 
continued  in-and-in  breeding. 
SUCCESSION  HOUSES. — Follow  up  the  thinning  of  the 
bunches  and  beriues,  also  tying,  disbudding,  stopping,  and  regu¬ 
lating  the  growths.  Allow  ciops  proportionate  to  the  vigour 
of  the  Vines,  and  retain  as  much  foliage  as  can  have  full 
exposure  to  light.  Examine  the  borders  at  least  once  weekly. 
a.nd  when  dry  water  freel.v,  assisting  those  in  full  foliage  and 
carrying  heavy  crops  with  tepid  liquid  manure  or  top-djessings 
of  fertilisers,  wa.shed  in  moderately,  mulching  with  an  inch  or. 
two  thickness  of  rather  lumpy,  .sweet  manure.  Well-drained 
inside  borders  will  take  almo.st  any  amount  of  water  after  the 
Vines  are  in  full  foliage,  it  liaving  a  hygienic  as  well  as  a 
moisture-.snpplying  effect.  Excessive  watering,  howevei-,  causes 
a  soddened  and  sour  condition  of  the  soil,  which  commonly 
re.sult,s  in  .shanking  and  had  finish.  Ventilate  eai'ly;  it  assists 
r.ccumulated  moisture  to  disperse,  gives  texture  to  the  foliage 
and  firmness  to  the  wood,  besides  securing  a  full  amount  of 
stored  matter.  Allow  a  high,  dry  temperature  from  sun  heat, 
closing  early,  alike  to  pu.sh  ahead  the  crop,  and  to  store  the 
sun-warmed  atmosphere.  At  night  a  temperature  of  GOdeg  to 
Godeg  is  best,  especially  for  Vines  carrying  heavy  crops. 
LATE  HOUSES. — Disbudding,  also  tying  and  .stopping  of  the 
giowths,  must  be  attended  to  as  they  become  sufficiently 
advanced.  Every  advantage  of  sun  boat  should  be  taken  to 
'ucrease  the  ventilation  earlv  in  the  day.  and  of  closing  early  in 
the  afternoon,  as  a  means  of  .securing  a  long  day’s  work,  and  of 
•FN) 
vigour  and  health  in  the  Vines,  dispensing  with  fire  heat  as 
much  as  possible,  yet  employing  enough  to  keep  the  Vines  m 
steady  progre.ss.  Make  selection  of  the  hnnches  that  are  to 
remain  for  the  crop,  large  ones,  especially  loo.se,  being  the 
worst  for  finish,  and  the  medium-sized  and  compact  the  be.st 
for  perfecting  properly  and  keeping.  Crop  lightly  rather  than 
heavily,  and  apportion  the  crop  to  the  vigour  and  variety  of  the 
Vine.  ' 
LATPl  HAMBURGHS.  —  These  and  other  summer  Grapes 
will  have  started  naturally,  and  require  disbudding,  tying  down, 
and  regulating,  not  leaving  more  growths  than  can  have  space 
for  the  full  expamsion  of  the  foliage.  In  stopping,  allow  two, 
preferably  four,  joints  of  growth  beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  and 
pinch  the  laterals  below  it  to  one  joint  as  made,  but  above  the 
i)unches  allow  them  to  extend,  so  as  to  insure  an  equal  covering 
of  the  .space  with  foliage  that  can  have  full  exposure  to  light ; 
afterwards  keep  them  pinched  to  one  leaf  as  new  growth  is 
made.  Where  the  space  is  restricted,  closer  stopping  may  be 
practised,  not  allowing  the  laterals  to  interfere  with  the  prin¬ 
cipal  leaves.  Ventilate  early  and  freely  so  as  to  insure  short- 
jointed,  stout  wood,  and  thick,  leathery  foliage.  Avoid  a 
saturated  conditioir  of  the  atmo.sphere,  yet  a  genial  state  must 
be  provided  by  syringing  the  borders,  walls,  and  paths  in  the 
morning  and  at  closing  time.  Have  the  borders  properly  moist, 
yet  avoid  saturating  them;  and  encourage  surface  roots  by  a 
light  mulching  of  lumpy  material. — G.  A.,  St.  Albans,  Herts. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
hardy  annuals  for  cutting.— Some  of  the  most 
useful  species  of  hardy  annuals  are  very  mseful  for  affording 
cut  flowers  during  the  period  of  their  blooming.  For  this  pur¬ 
pose  sow  them  in  beds  in  the  kitchen  garden,  or  they  may  in 
many  instances  serve  the  double  purpose  of  decorating  the 
garden  and  pi-oviding  material  for  cutting.  There  is  a  good 
range  of  different  varieties  among  the  annual  Chrysanthemums, 
including  Morning  S'tar,  Carinatum,  Coronarium,  Dunnetti, 
Inodoinm  plenissimum,  and  Segetum  grandiflorum.  A  good 
.strain  of  Coreopsis  grandiflora  will  be  exceptionally  useful  for 
cutting,  but  this  variety  is  not  strictly  a  hardy  annual.  The 
hardier  varieties  which  may  be  .sown  outdoors  are  the  dwarf 
mixed  Coreopsis,  winch  include  crimson,  yellow,  and  brown 
flowers.  The  taller  varieties,  Drnmmondi,  tinctoria,  atro-san- 
guinea  and  marmorata,  are  real  acquisitions  for  cutting.  Corn¬ 
flowers  are  sure  to  bo  appreciated,  especially  the  blue  variety. 
A  mixture  of  Sweet  Sultans  should  be  grown.  They  remain 
fresh  when  cut  for  a  considerable  time.  Mignonette  is  indis¬ 
pensable,  and  a  good  breadth  should  be  sown,  well  thinning  tho 
plants  as  they  increase  in  size,  so  as  to  obtain  good  spikes  of 
bloom.  Sweet  Peas  sown  now  will  follow  the  earlier  sowings, 
and  come  in  useful  late.  There  should  be  no  lack  of  these  now 
popular  flowers.  Nasturtiums  are  very  pretty  for  cutting  and 
mixing  in  with  choicer  flowers. 
PLANTING  DAHLIAS. — Dahlia  roots  which  are  .starting 
groAvth  may  be  planted  now.  Too  large  clumps  of  roots  may_be 
divided,  securing  a  portion  of  the  growth  to  each,  and  removing 
some  of  the  large,  coar.se  tubers.  Plant  in  well-prepared 
ground,  not  made  over-rich  with  manure.  The  growths  may 
be  further  thinned  out  as  they  are  produced. 
HARDENING  BEDDING  PLANTS.— All  plants  intended  for 
filling  flower  beds,  whether  in  boxes  or  pots,  and  sufficiently 
advanced  in  size,  may  now  be  placed  in  cold  frames.  Protect 
until  they  have  become  used  to  the  changed  conditions,  then 
gradually  inure  to  more  air,  fully  exposing  on  fine  days,  and 
subsequently  altogether  when  danger  of  frost  is  past. 
SOWING  WALLFLOWERS.— A  liberal  .sowing  of  seed  of 
the  best  varieties,  including  yellow,  brown;' dark  red,  and 
choice  mixed,  ought  to  be  rnade  now,  as  it  is  not  too  early  to 
sow  to  obtain  good  plants  of  dwarf  and  bushy  habit.  Prepare 
a  piece  of  open  ground  of  a  fertile  and  friable  character,  break¬ 
ing  down  the  surface  to  a  fine  tilth.  If  the  weather  is  dry  give 
a  watering,  and  then  sow  a  square  yard  or  so  of  each  colour 
moderately  thinly  broadcast,  and  cover  with  fine  soil.  Shade 
and  water  in  hot,  dry  weather  until  the  seed  germinates,  and 
maintain  the  seedlings  moi.st  afterwards.  As  they  advance  in 
size  thin  out  the  most  crowded  patches,  so  that  the  majority 
will  be  in  a  .sturdy  condition  for  planting  out  in  nursery  beds 
later  on. 
SWEET  VIOLETS. — Offsets  from  old  plants  which  have 
now  done  flowering,  may  be  detached  and  lifted  from  the  ground 
with  any  soil  which  may  adhere  to  the  roots.  For  planting 
choose  a  partially  shaded  position,  and  work  into  the  .soil  some 
rotted  manure  and  good  leaf  soil.  Plant  the  offsets  9in  apart 
in  roAvs  a  foot  asunder.  Water  frequently,  and  hoe  between 
tiie  plants  to  keep  down  weeds,  continuing  this  throughout  tlio 
summer.  Runners  will  start  from  the  offsets,  but  these  must 
be  cut  off  as  they  appear  to  prevent  the  main  plants  being 
robbed  of  support.  Syringing  the  ptants  on  waiun  evenings 
will  greatly  assist  in  keeping  down  red  spider,  which  ficquently 
attacks  Violets.— E.  I).  S.,  Gravesend. 
