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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  19,  1904. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
PLUMS. — It  is  a  mistake  to  allow  these  to  carry  heavy 
crops.  This  particularly  applies  to  young  trees  and  those  on 
walls.  They  will  carry  with  impunity  heavier  loads  than  will 
Peaches  and  Apricots,  but  w'here  closely  set  some  of  the  fruits 
should  be  dispensed  with.  Some  of  the  clusters  may  be 
entirely  removed,  but  the  thinning  must  be  managed  according 
to  the  strength  and  age  of  the  trees,  together  with  some  know¬ 
ledge  as  to  the  ultimate  size  of  the  ripe  fruits  of  each  variety. 
Train  and  lay  in  young  shoots  as  needed  for  filling  up  and 
extending  the  trees,  stopping  very  strong  growths  that  appear 
to  be  taking  the  lead. 
PEARS. — Choice  varieties  will  need  thinning  if  heavy  crops 
have  set,  or  the  trees  cannot  produce  fine  specimens.  Young 
pyramids  and  horizontals  on  walls  and  espaliers  must  receive 
attention  to  the  growths,  disbudding  and  pinching  those  not 
required  for  extension.  Merely  pinch  out  the  points  of  growths 
not  needed,  leaving  five  or  six  leaves  from  the  base.  If  the 
stopping  is  too  severe,  the  lower  buds  will  break  into  growth, 
and  the  prospect  of  fruit  for  another  season  is  at  once  destroyed. 
FIGS  ON  WALLS. — There  is  indication  of  a  good  crop  of 
these.  Attend  to  stopping  and  arranging  the  growth,  never 
allowing  this  to  become  crowded.  Pinch  out  the  points  of 
growing  shoots  at  the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf  unless  it  is  desired  to  fill 
up  bare  spaces,  when  they  may  extend  as  required.  Remove 
some  of  the  worst-placed  and  smallest  fruits  if  the  crop  be  too 
heavy,  and  give  water  if  the  soil  is  dry. 
STRAWBERRIES. — Continue  to  mulch  these  with  long, 
strawy  litter  as  the  material  comes  to  hand,  if  all  the  plants 
have  not  yet  received  this  attention.  Give  water  should  dry 
weather  be  experienced.  In  the  case  of  old  plantations,  this 
watering  may  be  followed  by  an  application  of  liquid  manure. 
This  will  assist  the  plants  in  swelling  the  berries  to  a  good  size. 
Remove  all  trusses  from  young  plants  put  out  late,  and  remove 
I'unners  also,  unless  these  are  wanted  for  early  layering  for  pot 
Strawberries. 
INSECT  PESTS.  — Con.stant  attention  will  be  needed  in 
combatting  these.  Cherries  must  be  dressed  and  syringed  to 
resist  and  destroy  aphides.  Red  spider  is  almost  sure  to  be 
present  on  wall  trees  after  a  spell  of  dry  weather.  Washing 
must  be  persisted  in  to  keep  this  pest  in  check.  Orchard  trees 
and  others  liable  to  attacks  from  the  larvce  of  the  winter  moth 
may  be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of  Paris  green,  the  application 
to  be  repeated  in  two  or  three  weeks’  time  if  the  attack  is  a 
serious  one. 
GENERAL  REMARKS. — See  that  no  wall  trees  suffer  from 
a  lack  of  moisture.  If  the  soil  has  become  hardened,  first 
loosen  it  with  a  fork,  and  then  apply  copiously.  Neglect  of 
this  may  often  result  in  many  of  the  fruits  turning  yellow  and 
tailing  prematurely.  Give  mulchings  to  Raspberries 'if  growing 
in  hot,  dry  soils.  If  manure  is  not  plentiful,  spread  the  lawn- 
mowings  over  the  roots.  Remove  the  clusters  of  blossom  from 
small  Apples  and  Pears  that  were  planted  in  spring,  or  they 
may  fail  to  start  into  f>'rowth  properly.  Frequently  hoe 
amongst  tree.s  and  liushes,  thus  keeping  down  weeds  and 
Jitaintain  the  soil  in  an  equalile  state  of  moisture. — 
•L  VV.,  JNewent,  Glos. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES:  EARLY  FORCED  HOUSES.-Where  the  Grapi 
to  prevent  the  temperature  fallin 
below  GOdeg  Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  with  free  ventih 
tion  when  the  weather  is  favourable.  Do  not  allow  the  horde 
moist,  and  mulch  with  rathe 
litter,  both  prevent  excess  of,  air  moisture  an 
eep  the^  soil  from  cracking.  A  little  moisture,  however,  i 
injurious  to  the  Grapes,  and  is  high! 
beneficial  to  the  foliage,  which  must  be  kept  clean  and  healths 
If  thrips  appear,  recourse  must  be  had  to  fumigation  wit 
toDacco  paper,  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine  compound.  Fc 
sulnlfpriifil  better  plan  than  either  heating  an 
sulnbtiT  pipes,  or  vaporising  with  Campbell 
ove?c  nnP  r?  these  must  be  done  carefully,  for  i 
iPBiriously  affect  the  tender-skinne 
a.  d  ntlU!  ^  the  Frontignans  and  Muscat  of  Alexandrii 
ana  otnei  white  varieties. 
with^th^^stPa^?^  VINERIES.-As  little  fire  heat  as  is  consisten 
w  th  sun  progress  of  the  crops  should  be  employed,  fo 
at  and  abundance  of  atmospheric  moisture  more  rei 
benefit  is  gained  in  a  week  than  a  month  of  dull  weather  with 
the  aid  of  fires.  The  Vines  being  in  full  growth,  the  tempera¬ 
ture  may  be  allowed  to  rise  to  90deg  or  95deg,  closing  the  house 
at  8odeg,  employing  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  a  day  tempera¬ 
ture  of  TOdeg  to  75deg,  and  to  prevent  it  falling  below  65deg 
at  night,  yet  odeg  less  will. do  no  harm,  but  good  when  the 
weather  is  cold.  These  remarks  apply  only  to  Vines  in  full 
growth  and  swelling  their  crops,  as  those  that  have  the  Grapes 
approaching  ripening  should  have  a  rather  free  circulation  of 
air,  those  advanced  in  ripening  being  kept  cooler  and  drier. 
Air  should  be  admitted  very  early  in  the  morning,  as  the  sun, 
acting  powerfully  on  the  condensed  moisture  formed  on  the 
foliage  during  tlie  night,  usually  causes  scorching  unless  air 
has  been  previously  admitted. 
^Vatering  the  borders  must  be  attended  to  as  required,  not 
having  stated  times,  but  being  guided  by  the  soil’s  condition. 
More  failures  are  due  to  under  than  over-watering  Vines,  the 
borders  being  properly  constructed  and  the  drainage  complete. 
Water  may  be  required  twice  a  week  in  the  case  of  Vines 
restricted  to  narrow  and  shallow  borders,  and  once  a  week  for 
those  that  have  a  good  run  of  border  from  the  time  of  thinning 
the  berries  until  the  Grapes  are  changing 'colour,  but  retentive 
soils  may  only  require  water  at  fortnightly  intervals,  or  even 
three  weeks.  This  difference  must  be  considered,  for  there  is 
no  question  about  a  soddened  soil  being  injurious  to  Grapes 
and  a  prolific  source  of  shanking. 
Liquid  nourishment  is  more  frequently  required  by  loose  and 
light  soils  than  by  compact  and  retentive  ones.  All  will  need 
top-dressings  of  some  approved  fertiliser  (1)  when  starting  the 
Vines,  (2)  when  the  Grapes  attain  to  thinning  size,  (3)  when  the 
berries  commence  ripening,  supplying  4oz  per  square  yard  at- 
each  dressing,  and  working  in  lightly.  If  more  stimulation,  or 
rather  nourishment,  be  needed,  supply  the  manure  oftener ; 
this  is  better  than  increasing  the  quantity  each  time  and  at 
long  intervals. 
LATE  HOUSES. — In  most  places  the  work  now  in  hand  is 
considerable  in  thinning  the  berries,  and  it  will  continue  for 
Jackanapes=on=Horseback. 
