May  19,  1904. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
4.39 
some  weeks,  as  in  many  instances  the  Vines  are  only  in  flowej’. 
In  the  latter  case  maintain  a  minimnm  temperature  of  hOdeg  to 
70deg,  5deg  more  for  Muscats,  shaking  the  Vines  twice  a  day  to 
distribute  the  pollen,  which  will  be  sufficient  for  all  but  the  shy 
setters,  and  these  ought  to  be  carefully  fertilised,  going  over 
the  bunches  judiciously  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush,  and  supplying 
pollen  where  it  is  deficient  from  those  that  afford  it  freely. 
All  the  large-berried  and  free-setting  varieties,  such  as  Gros 
Colman  and  Gros  Guillaume,  should  be  thinned  whilst  they  are 
in  flower,  and  with  those  that  are  likely  to  have  closely-set 
berries  it  is  advisable  to  thin  before  the  flowers  expand,  as  a 
practised  eye  can  tell  which  flower  will  set  by  its  vigour,  and 
the  removal  of  the  weaker  strengthens  those  left  wonderfully. 
While  the  Vines  are  in  flower,  moderate  moisture,  with  a  rather 
tree  circulation  of  air,  is  desirable.  It  is  also  inadvisable  to 
stop  or  remove  laterals  while  the  Vines  are  in  bloom,  but  Avhen 
the  Vines  are  fairly  set  remove  superfluous  laterals,  and  pinch 
as  required,  both  to  prevent  overcrowding  and  concentrate  the 
supplies  of  nourishment  in  the  Grapes. 
PLANTING  GROWING  VINES. — From  now  to  the  early 
Ijart  of  June  is  a  good  time  to  plant  out  those  raised  from 
eyes  in  February  or  ilarch,  and  grown  in  pots  or  turves.  The 
roots  need  not  be  disentangled.  Indeed,  it  cannot  be  done 
without  injury,  hence  turf-raised  Vines  are  better  than  potted 
ones,  as  they  form  a  straight  yet  fibrous  root,  and  are  not 
prone,  to  descend  deeply  or  form  a  corkscrew  root-stem  as  those 
turned  out  of  the  pots  with  ball  entire.  Make  the  .soil  firm 
about  the  turves  or  balls,  give  a  good  .soaking  with  water  at 
OOdeg,  and  mnlch  with  about  an  inch  thickness  of  short  and 
rather  lumpy  manure.  iMaintain  a  rather  humid  atmosphere, 
and  shade  from  bright  sun  untii  the  Vines  become  established. — 
G.  A.,  St.  Albans,  Herts. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
SPRING  FLOM  FRING  PLANTS  AFTER  FLOWERING.— 
Primro.ses,  Polyanthuses,  Forget-me-nots,  Aubrietias,  Arabis, 
hardy  annuals.  Tulips,  Narcissi,  and  Hyacinths,  u.sed  to  make 
a  spring  display  of  bloom  in  the  flower  beds  are,  or  are  approach¬ 
ing,  the  end  of  their  flowering  period,  and  will  need  removal  so 
as  to  make  room  for  the  summer  bedding  plants.  Forget-me- 
nots  may  be  thrown  away  if  a  fresh  .stock  is  raised  later  from 
seed.  The  hardy  annuals,  such  as  Silenes,  are  of  no  further 
use  after  their  flush  of  flowering  is  over.  Primroses  and  Poly¬ 
anthuses  should  be  lifted  and  laid  in  a  moist  part  of  tlie  garden 
with  a  view  to  dividing  and  replanting  at  a  convenient  oppor¬ 
tunity.  Treat  the  Aubrietias  and  Arabis  the  same.  Wallflowers 
pull  up  and  throw  away.  Rulbs  are  the  most  difficult  to  deal 
with,  as  thej"  ought  to  remain  to  mature  before  disturbance,  but 
as  this  is  impossible  in  the  case  of  flower  beds,  lift  ana  replant 
thickly  in  a  sunny  part  of  the  garden.  Cut  off  all  withered 
flow’er  .stems,  but  leave  the  foliage  intact.  Beds  of  Pansies  are 
at  their  best  now,  and  may  remain  until  they  decline  in 
effectiveness.  Spring  planted  Violas  will  continue  flowering  a 
long  time  in  moi.st  .soil,  especial!}’  if  afforded  a  mulching  of  some 
ricn  material  between  the  plants,  and  watered  liberally  when 
necessary. 
BEGONIAS  FOR  BEDDING.— The  tubers  having  been 
placed  in  boxes  of  soil  to  commence  growth,  should,  if  at  all 
crowded,  be  thinned  out  to  prevent  the  foliage  and  stems  being 
drawn.  The  growth,  now  dwarf  and  sturdy,  should  be  main¬ 
tained  so  by  fully  exposing  the  plants  on  every  favourable 
occasion  until  the  bedding  time.  Seedlings  of  the  fibrous- 
rooted  section,  pricked  out  in  boxes,  may  be  kept  close  and 
growing  if  small,  so  that  by  the  additional  heat  and  moisture 
they  may  progress  w'ell.  Tlie  early  raised  i^lants  will  be  ready 
for  bedding  out  in  June.  They  are  invaluable  as  an  edging  to 
beds  and  borders,  and  form  attractive  beds  also. 
WEEDS  ON  WALKS. — The  present  month  during  dry 
periods  is  a  suitable  time  to  apply  a  dre.ssing  of  weed  killer  to 
gravel  paths  and  drives  where  small  weeds  are  obtaining  a  foot¬ 
hold.  The  preparations  advertised  are  found  to  be  good, 
applying  according  to  the  directions  given.  One  or  two  appli¬ 
cations  will  destroy  a  number  of  weeds,  leaving  the  paths  bright 
and  clean.  Due  care  must  be  taken  in  applying  it  not  to  injure 
grass  or  Box  edging. — F.  1).  S.,  Gravesend. 
Primroses. 
Jackanapes-on-HoPseback  and  the  Galligaskins. 
Polyanthuses  and  Primroses  rank  among.st  the  most  popular 
of  hardy  flowers,  and  they  are  of  the  easiest  culture,  while  a 
number  of  attractive  varieties  are  readily  raised  from  seed.  A 
correspondent  recently  desired  to  know  the  difference  between 
these  flowers.  The  Primrose  is  distinguished  by  each 
flower-.stalk  that  springs  direct  from  the  root-stock  bearing  only 
one  flower.  No  matter  what  the  colour  may  be,  if  there  is  one 
flower  only,  double  or  single,  at  the  summit  of  each  stalk,  the 
plant  is  a  Primrose.  A  Polyanthus,  on  the  contrary,  produces 
.several  flowers  in  the  form  of  an  umbel  or  cluster  from  one 
stout  stalk  that  .springs  from  the  plant.  Polyanthuses  are 
The  Galligaskins  Primrose. 
very  beautiful  flowers,  the  laced  varieties  charming,  and  the 
self-coloured  or  border  varieties  effective.  These  latter  are  often 
known  as  Clu.ster  Primro.ses,  because  many  of  them  have  been 
raised  from  Primro.se  seed,  while  others  have  sprung  from  Cow¬ 
slips.  These  may  be  referred  to  in  future  ;  at  the  present  the 
curious  or  grotesque  members  of  the  family  are  under  notice. 
The  Jackanape.s-on-Hor.seback  is  a  very  old  variety,  and  was 
called  the  Franticke  or  Foolish  Cowslip,  or  Jackanapes-on-Horse- 
back,  by  the  famous  old  author,  Parkinson,  in  the  time  of 
Shakespeare.  It  appears  to  be  a  proliferous  form  of  the  Galli- 
gaskin. 
The  singularity  of  these  varieties  consi.sts  in  the  development 
of  the  bracts  and"  calyx  tubes  into  leaves,  which  imparts  to  the 
plants  when  in  flower  a  remarkable  appearance.  They  are 
hardv,  but  best  flowered  in  a  cool  frame,  and  are  increased  by 
division  of  the  loots  and  crowns. 
The  Galligaskin  has  the  collar  of  leafy  bracts  much  enlarged, 
and  forming  ([uite  a  collar  round  the  flower.  A  special  feature  of 
the  Jackanapes,  or  Jack-in-the-Green  (as  it  is  also  called),  is 
tiiat  when  tlie  green  and  crimson  flowers  have  faded,  the  bract.s 
which  remain  show  blood-coloured  or  crimson  .stains,  and  the 
gieen  and  the  crimson  become  intensified  during  the  season. 
For  this  reason  it  is  a  most  interesting  little  plant.  These 
curious  old-fashioned  flowers  are  seldom  met  with  now,  but  we 
saw  a  very  fine  collection  of  all  the  rare  old  favourites  in  Messrs. 
Isaac  Hoirse  and  Son’s  nur.sery  at  We.stbury-on-Trym,  near 
Bristol,  a  week  ago.  The  Hose-in-ho.se  Polyanthus  was  there 
also  admirably  represented. 
Marquis  Ito,  the  father  of  Marquis  Ito,  the  unofficial  Prime 
Minister  of  Japan,  was  a  rustic  gardener  at  one  time  without 
the  privilege  of  two  swords. 
