482 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  2, 1904. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
WALL  TREES.— There  is  every  indication  of  heavy  crops 
of  Pears,  and  if  fine,  well-finished  fruit  is  to  be  gathered,  early 
attention  must  be  given  to  thinning.  See  that  the  trees  suffer 
no  lack  of  water,  and  attend  to  the  proper  arrangement  of  the 
growths,  removing  .strong  fore-right  shoots,  and  pinching  or 
depressing  others  which  appear  to  be  getting  away  too  strongly. 
Young  trees  in  particular  v'ill  need  attention.  Morello  Cherries 
will  need  attention  in  laying  in  the  shoots  to  supply  next 
season’s  crop  of  fruit.  Look  over  the  trees,  and  leave  only  the 
requisite  number  of  growths  for  furnishing  them  with  the 
required  number.  This  obviates  the  excessive  use  of  the  knife 
in  autumn  and  winter.  Have  nets  in  readiness  to  protect  the 
fruit  of  dessert  varieties,  as  immediately  they  take  on  the 
least  amount  of  colour  birds  will  attack  them.  If  attacked  by 
aphides,  syringe  the  shoots  with  a  solution  of  quassia  or  one  of 
the  recognised  remedies. 
ESPALIER  APPLES. — Pinching  and  discarding  unneces¬ 
sary  shoots  may  he  with  benefit  accorded  these.  The  stopping 
of  side  growths  nnist  not  be  severe ;  five  or  six  leaves  should  he 
left,  or  the  basal  buds  start  into  growth  and  produce  a  mass 
of  small  useless  spray.  Thin  heavy  crops  as  soon  as  it  is  seen 
which  fruits  are  likely  to  he  the  largest,  though  in  the  case  of 
some  of  the  Codlin  family,  such  as  Lord  Suffield,  Gro,svenor, 
and  others,  the  crop  may  well  stand  until  the  fruit  is  of  some 
service  in  the  kitchen. 
STRAWBERRIES. — The  nets  for  these  must  be  in 
readiness.  Birds  quickly  take  toll  of  the  ripening  fruits^  and 
the  earliest  to  change  colour  are  frequently  the  finest.  A'oung 
plants  with  but  a  small  amount  of  foliage  must  have  the  nets 
supported  over  them  on  frames  or  sticks.  Where  a  slight 
framework  can  be  erected,  this  is  by  far  the  best,  as  gathering 
can  then  take  place  without  the  removal  of  the  nets.  Royal 
Sovereign  produces  such  an  abundance  of  tall,  strong  foliage 
that  well  supports  the  nets.  Last  sea,son,  owing  to  the  con¬ 
tinuous  wet  and  rampant  growth  of  this  variety,  we  found  it 
necessary  to  tie  up  the  foliage  in  bundles  to  allow  the  berries 
to  ripen.  Mice  quickly  play  havoc  if  existing  in  any  numbers, 
and  the  mulching  material  placed  among  the  plants  no  doubt 
harbours  them.  Traps  should  at  once  be  set  for  these  annoying 
pests  if  their  presence  is  suspected. 
GOOSEBERRIES  AND  CURRANTS.— Where  there  are 
heavy  crops  of  the  former,  the  bushes  may  he  quickly  relieved 
of  a  portion  of  their  load.  The  berries  gathered  for  culinary 
purposes  should  always  be  taken  from  the  lower  branches.  By 
reducing  the  present  heavy  crop,  those  remaining  will  attain 
finer  proportions  for  sending  ripe  to  table.  It  is  but  seldom 
that  Currants  are  gathered  in  a  green  state,  but  they  are  at 
times  in  request  for  bottling  purposes.  Where  the  bushes  are 
swelling  excessive  crops  (and  Black  Currants  are  tremendous 
crops  in  this  district)  some  assistance  may  with  profit  be 
afforded.  I  have  found  the  trees  perfect  and  retain  heavy 
crops  much  better  when  the  swelling  was  aided  by  one  or  two 
applications  of  superphosphate  or  meat  manure.  All  bushes — 
especially  those  growing  in  light  soils — will  benefit  from  a 
mulching  of  manure,  or  failing  this,  spread  the  lawn  mowings 
over  the  roots.— J.  W.,  Newent,  Glos. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. -Plants  in  houses  that  have  been  in  bearing 
since  the  beginning  of  the  year  may  be  cleared  out,  and  the 
house  cleansed  preparatory  to  replanting  with  young  plants  or 
'Melons  for  a  late  crop.  This  answers  where  there  are  several 
houses,  and  the  plants  are  grown  to  provide  fruit  for  market¬ 
ing  as  regards  Cucumbers;  but  where  the  old  plants  are  fairly 
healthy,  and  fruit  not  supplied  from  other  sources,  such  as  pits 
and  frames,  they  may  be  kept  fruiting  a  little  longer  by  re¬ 
moving  some  of  the  soil,  and  replacing  with  lumpy  loam,  after¬ 
wards  surfacing  with  sweetened  horse  droppings.  Thin  out 
the  old  growths,  and  encourage  young  in  their  place,  shade 
from  powerful  sun,  syringe  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  and 
damp  well  before  nightfall.  Admit  a  little  air  at  75deg,  in¬ 
creasing  with  the  advancing  sun,  keeping  through  the  day  at 
85deg  to  90deg,  and  closing  eariy,  .so  as  to  retain  the  latter 
degree,  or  advance  to  95deg  to  lOOdeg.  Fire  heat  need  only 
be  employed  to  maintain  a  night  temperature  gf  GOdeg  to 
b5deg,  and  to  insure  70deg  to  75  deg  by  day. 
^  :  EARLY  HOUSE. — As  soon  as  the  Grapes  are 
cleared  off  the  ^  ines  give  the  inside  borders  a  thorough  supply 
of  liquid  manure,  or  a  top-dressing  of  some  fertiliser  washed  in. 
This,  with  adequate,  Init  not  exce.ssive  supplies  of  iva-ter,  will 
help  to  iDlump  the  buds  and  encourage  root  action,  so  es.sential 
to  the  activity  of  the  laterals,  which,  if  allowed  moderate 
extension,  is  the  best  preventive  of  the  premature  ripening  of 
the  foliage.  Keep  the  ventilators  open  constantly,  even  in 
cold  weather.  Syringe  thoroughly,  to  cleanse  the"  foliage  of 
dirt  and  insects,  and  repeat  occasionally  or  as  found  neces.sary, 
to  keep  the  old  or  main  leaves  healthy.  Fresh  laterals  will 
soon  be  produced,  and  cultivators  should  maintain  an  even 
growth  over  the  Vines,  pinching  the  gross  laterals  and 
encouraging  the  weak..  The  mulching  or  covering  having  been 
removed  from  the  outside  border,  with  just  enough  of  the 
lighter  part  left  to  protect  the  roots,  a  watering  with  liquid 
manure  may  be  given,  but  this  will  not  he  necessary,  except 
as  a  source  of  nutriment,  where  rain  in  suflScient  amount  has 
already  fallen. 
GRAPES  SCALDING. — Muscats  and  Lady  Downe’s,  with 
other  varieties,  are  liable  to  scald  in  the  later  stages  of  stoning, 
therefore  must  l)e  watched  in  hot,  bright  weather,  and  air 
admitted  more  freely  for  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  until 
colouring  commences  and  is  advanced.  Muscats  are  sometimes 
scorched  when  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of  the  snn,  even  after 
colouring  has  commenced,  which  must  be  provided  against  by 
a  little  extra  ventilation,  especially  early,  and  in  bright 
weather  a  slight  shading.  Black  Hamhurghs  also  are  scorched 
occasionally  when  the  berries  are  exposed  to  the  direct  rays  of 
the  sun,  which  can  easily  be  avoided  by  a  good  spread  of 
foliage,  or  by  a  bountiful  supply  of  air  by  day  and  a  little 
ventilation  constantly  at  the  upper  part  of  the  house,  with  a 
genial  warmth  in  the  hot  water  pipes,  being  very  particular  as 
regards  early  ventilation. — G.  A.,  St.  Albans,  Herts. 
The  Flower  Garden. 
HALF-HARDY  ANNUALS.— Beds  of  these  of  one  species 
or  mixtures  may  now  he  planted.  If  not  planted  in  beds  they 
are  suitable  for  borders,  forming  groups  of  irregular  size  and 
shape.  Some  of  the  dwarfer  growing  annuals  may  he  planted 
in  lines,  while  the  taller  and  most  useful  for  cutting  should 
have  positions  in  the  rear,  or  where  they  can  have  room  to 
develop  their  natural  habit  of  growth.  For  furnishing  beds 
the  following  may  be  employed : — Ten-week  Stocks,  good 
plants  of  which  placed  out  now  will  bloom  freely  in  July,  also 
Phlox  Drummondi,  Verbenas,  and  Petunias.  As  these  three 
latter  grow,  some  regulation  of  growth  is  desirable,  and 
pegging  down  with  hooked  pegs  or  pins.  Salpiglossis  also 
make  excellent  beds,  the  plants  being,  however,  rather  slender 
in  habit,  but  produce  beautiful  flowers  of  various  hues  and 
markings.  Zinnias  are  tall  and  stately,  msefui  chiefly  for 
moderate-sized  beds.  They  produce  a  succession  of  bloom  over 
a  long  period.  A  good  variety  of  A.sters  are  indispensable  for 
decoration  and  cutting  in  the  autumn.  Bright  effects  are  pro¬ 
duced  by  French  and  African  Marigolds  planted  in  borders 
with  a  background  of  shrubs.  Upon  the  whole,  half-hardy 
annuals  require  rich  and  deeply-worked  soil,  so  that  they  can 
make  abundance  of  roots,  which  assists  them  to  flower  well. 
SUBTROPICAL'  PLANTS.— A  few  beds  of  subtropical 
plants  add  greatly  to  the  attractions  of  a  garden,  and  create  a 
healthy  intere.st.  A  judicious  mixture  of  such  plants  as  Cannas, 
Ricinuses,  'Wigandias,  Eucalyptuses,  Cineraria  maritima, 
Solanums,  Abutilons,  Zea  japonica,  and  Ficus  elastica,  will 
produce  good  effects,  providing  the  plants  have  been  iireviously 
well  grown,  and  are  of  fair  size,  well  rooted,  and  hardened  to 
outside  conditions.  A  few  palms  from  the  greenhouse  may  be 
used  in  sheltered  places,  also  small  or  large  plants  of  Araucarias 
in  pots.  Agapanthns  umbellatns  in  large  pots  or  tubs,  and 
Agave  americana  fol.  var.,  are  admirable  in  positions  suitable 
for  them  on  balustrades  or  the  sides  of  paths. 
TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS.  — The  tubers,  having  made  strong 
growths,  which  have  become  duly  hardened  to  outside  condi¬ 
tions  by  the  judicious  treatment  accorded  them,  may  now  be 
planted  out.  They  should  lift  from  the  boxes  or  frames  where 
they  have  been  growing,  with  plenty  of  fibrous  roots  and  soil 
adhering,  which  mu.st  l)e  moist.  Prepare  beds  for  them  of  good 
tilth,  and  moderately  rich,  so  that  they  may  have  a  good  root¬ 
ing  medium.  "With  beds  of  ordinary  good  loam,  the  addition 
of  well  decomposed  manure  and  leaf  soil  will  provide  good 
material.  Indiscriminate  mixing  of  the  varieties  of  double, 
single,  and  semi-double  will  result  in  uneven  beds,  so  it  is  best 
to  make  beds  of  one  variety  onh^ 
DAHLIAS. — Young  plants  of  Dahlias  raised  from  cuttings 
this  spring  will  now  be  of  sufficient  size  and  strength  to  plant 
out  finally.  Place  them  in  an  open  position  in  Avell-i)ulverised 
soil,  seeing  that  the  ball  of  roots  is  moist,  and  a  stake  is  placed 
to  each  plant,  to  which  loosely,  but  securely,  tie  them.  Where 
a  border  is  planted  wholly  with  Dahlias  give  the  plants  a  space 
of  3ft  between  each.  Thin  away  some  of  the  weaker  shoots  of 
old  roots  previously  planted  out,  and  now  commencing  to  make 
giowth.  Seedling  plants,  too,  of  the  single  varieties  may  now 
be  safely  planted,  and  if  pos.sessing  a  fair  quantity  of  roots,  they 
will  soon  grow  away  vigorously. — E.  D.  S.,  Gravesend. 
