114 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  30,  1903. 
soon  cause  the  wood  to  harden  and  the  buds  to  plump,  insuring 
rest,  Avhich  for  Vines  to  be  started  in  December  should  be  com¬ 
plete  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  September.  When  the  wood 
is  ripe  ventilate  fully  day  and  night. 
VINES  CLEARED  OF  GRAPES. — Through  crops  hanging 
after  being  ripe  the  Vines  often  become  infested  with  red  spider, 
and  by  growing  plants  in  the  house  they  are  sometimes  attacked 
by  scale  and  mealy  bug,  the  dry  atmosphere  also  encouraging 
thrips.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  Vines,  fumigate  or  vaporise  on  two 
or  three  consecutive  evenings  for  the  thrips,  and  repeat  in  a  week  ■ 
or  ten  days  ;  .syringe  forcibly  two  or  three  times  to  eject  red 
sihder.  Mealy  bug  and  scale  may  be  eradicated  by  syringing 
with  the  following  solution; — Softsoap  ^Ib,  water  igal.  Dissolve 
by  boiling,  and  while  hot  add  \  pint  of  paraffin  oil,  stirring  bri.skly 
till  emulsified;  then  dilute  to  Ggals  with  hot  water,  and  when 
cooled  to  135deg  apply  with  a  syringe,  wetting  every  part  of  the 
Vines.  Repeat  in  the  course  of  four  days  or  a  week,  and  again 
at  a  similar  interval. 
Have  the  laterals  fairly  in  hand,  not  closely  pinched,  unle.s.5 
the  Vines  are  very  vigorous  and  not  ripening  the  wood  kindly, 
Avhen  keeping  the  house  rather  dry  at  night,  with  all  the  ventila¬ 
tion  possible,  and  somewhat  close  and  warm  by  day,  will  promote 
the  ripening  of  the  wood  and  buds.  In  stopping  vigorous  Vines 
regard  must  be  had  to  the  principal  leaves  and  buds,  for  when 
all  the  growth  is  removed  as  made,  and  the  leaves  injured,  it 
may  cause  the  pruning  buds  to  start,  which  must  be  prevented 
by  allowing  a  little  lateral  growth  and  keeping  the  soil  dry  at 
tlie  roots  to  the  extent  of  causing  the  foliage  to  become  a  little 
limp.  Weakly  Vines  may  be  fed  with  liquid  manure  and  the 
laterals  allowed  to  extend,  but  whatever  extension  is  permitted 
the  extraneous  foliage  must  not  in  any  way  interfere  with  the 
free  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  principal  leaves,  which  must 
be  kept  healthy,  and  thus  appropriate  some  of  the  food  and  store 
it  in  the  adjacent  wood  and  buds.  Free  ventilation  will  be  neces¬ 
sary  day  and  night. 
GRAPES  RIPENING. — Whilst  ripening  Grapes  swell  con- 
.siderably,  therefore  do  not  allow  any  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the 
border.  Give,  if  needed,  a  good  supply  of  water  or  liquid 
manure,  and  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  so  that  superfluous 
moisture  may  be  dissipated  before  night.  Heavily  cropped  Vines 
require  time  and  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure,  which  if  it 
does  not  help  the  current  crop,  will  prevent  the  exhaustion  of  the 
Vines.  _A  good  rest  at  night  in  a  temperature  of  GOdeg  to  Godeg 
with  air  is  a  great  aid  to  Vines  taxed  to  the  utmost  by  weight  of 
Grapes.  A  moderate  amount  of  air  moi.sture  is  essential  to  the 
health  of  the  Vines,  sprinkling  the  paths  and  borders  occasionally, 
and,  if  po.s.sible,  allow  the  laterals  to  extend,  but  full  or  over¬ 
cropped  Vines  rarely  can  cater  for  more  than  the  principal  leaves 
and  Grapes.  Admit  air  constantly,  enough  with  gentle  warmth 
in  the  hot-water  pi^aes  to  ensure  a  circulation,  and  maintain  a 
temperature  by  day  of  TOdeg  to  75deg,  keeping  through  the  day 
at  SOdeg  to  85deg,  or  90deg  with  sun,  and  full  ventilation. — 
St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
CELERY. — Where  previous  attention  has  been  given  to  an 
early  row  or  two  of  Celery  with  a  view  to  having  some  ready  for 
use  shortly,  the  final  earthing  ought  now  to  be  given.  Should  the 
soil  be  dry  first  give  a  liberal  soaking  of  water  or  liquid  manure, 
or  a  dressing  of  artificials  may  be  washed  in.  Secure  the  leaves 
together  in  an  upright  position  so  as  to  protect  the  hearts  of  the 
plants,  and  aid  also  in  blanching.  Only  good,  well-grown  plants 
po.ssessing  size,  substance,  and  moderate  length  ought  to  receive 
the  final  earthing  at  this  comparatively  early  date.  If  still  small 
and  growing  well,  defer  the  last  earthing  for  a  time,  even  if  this 
makes  the  time  of  obtaining  blanched  produce  later  than  desirable. 
During  the  course  of  growth  Celery  will  need  several  copious 
waterings,  so  as  to  maintain  a  constant  supply  of  .soluble  food  for 
the  active  roots.  Clear  water  is  best  at  first ;  but  after  the  roots 
become  numerous  and  ramify  well,  rapidly  absorbing  the  available 
food  in  the  soil,  liquid  fertilisers  can,  with  great  advantage,  be 
given.  Natural  stimulants  made  from  cow  manure,  fowl,  pigeon, 
or  horse  dung,  are  excellent.  As  a  change  scot  water  ivill  be 
found  beneficial.  Occasionally  supply  guano  or  a  general  arti¬ 
ficial  mixture  soaked  in  water  and  mixed  at  a  safe  strength. 
Although  good  for  the  plants  liquid  manure  mu.st  be  supplied 
intelligently,  not  surfeiting  the  soil  or  giving  it  when  the  latter 
is  in  a  dry  state.  Once  or  twice  a  week,  according  to  the  vigour 
of  the  plants,  will  be  found  ample. 
After  the  first  extended  period  of  active  growth  Celery  usually 
needs  some  attention  in  trimming,  removing  sucker  growths  and 
the  small  ba,sal  leaves  and  leaf.stalks,  at  the  same  time  clearing 
away  weeds.  The  principal  and  remaining  leafstalks  should  then 
be  lightly  drawn  together,  and  held  with  ties  of  raffia  grass.  The 
first  earthings  are  then  easily  carried  out. 
SOWING  CABBAGE. — In  many  di.stricts  the  main  sowing  of 
Cabbage  for  spring  use  is  best  made  now,  while  in  others,  deferring 
doing  so  later  will  be  found  to  answer.  It  is  not,  howeyer, 
desirable  to  depend  on  one  sowing  only.  A  later  one  may  be 
made  a  week  or  ten  days  hence,  and  plants  from  both  cultivated. 
Should  the  soil  be  very  dry,  after  preparing  it  and  breaking  it 
well  down,  give  a  copious  watering.  Then  sow  the  seed  broadcast 
thinly,  and  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  soil.  The  varieties  most  in 
favour  for  present  sowing  are  Flower  of  Spring,  Ellam’s  Dwarf 
Early,  Mein’s  No.  1,  and  Wheeler’s  Imperial. 
Feeding  tomatoes. — Tomatoes  outdoors,  or  under  glass 
in  pots,  boxes,  or  borders  constantly  require  attention.  Having 
made  strong  growth,  produced  fruit  freelju  and  being  furnished 
with  a  good  root  .sj’stem,  the  demands  for  moisture  are  imperative 
and  must  not  be  neglected  or  the  swelling  of  the  fruit,  already 
set,  will  be  arrested,  and  further  bunches  of  flowers  prevented 
setting.  It  is,  in  the  first  place,  highly  important  that  the  soil 
moisture  about  the  roots  be  fully  maintained.  This  forms  a 
good  foundation  for  any  stimulants  which  it  will  be  necessary  to 
give  as  a  means  of  supplying  nutriment.  Various  solutions  made 
by  soaking  different  manures,  such  as  cow,  horse,  fowl,  at  the 
rate  of  a  peck  to  30gals  of  water  can  be  given  at  frequent  intervals. 
Plants  with  the  roots  confined  will  require  it  most.  The  outdoor 
plants  may  be  provided  with  a  mulch  of  manure  over  the  roots, 
tills  serving  to  prevent  rapid  drying  up,  and  promotes  the  pro¬ 
duction  of  rootlets.  Also  under  glass  a  mulching  serves  the 
same  useful  purpose,  after  one  or  two  top-dressings  of  soil  have 
been  added. 
PEAS  AND  BEANS. — Rows  of  Pea.s-  for  a  late  crop  and 
Scarlet  Runner  Beans  need  moisture  at  the  ro-ots  to  enable  the 
flowers  to  set  well.  To  facilitate  the  application  of  water  and 
liquid  manure,  and  also  to  prevent  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture, 
lay  down  a  mulching  of  manure  on  each  side  of  the  rows. 
TURNIPS. — Turnips  sown  now  will,  if  the  ground  is  fairly 
moist,  germinate  and  grow  away  more  freely  than  hitherto.  A 
spell  of  hot  weather,  however,  coming  just  a.s  the  seedlings  push 
through,  an  attack  of  Turnip  fly  often  carries  them  off.  The 
best  course  to  follow  is  to  sow  a  little  stimulating  mixture  in  the 
drills  at  the  time  of  sowing  to  enable  the  plants  to  push  rapidly 
along  after  germination.  Equal  parts  of  salt  and  guano,  about  21b 
of  each  to  a  square  rod  of  ground,  sown  in  the  drills,  is  excellent. 
Superphosphate  also  scattered  along  the  drills  is  a  good  stimu¬ 
lant.  The  seed  must  not  be  .sown  thickly,  so  that  the  plants  may 
.start  strongly  from  the  first.  Thin  the  seedlings  as  early  as 
possible,  and'  keep  the  hoe  at  work  when  possible ;  also  giving 
light  dustings  of  soot. — East  Kent. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
MUSCAT  GRAPES  SHANKING  AND  SHRIVELLING  IN 
THE  STALKS  (J.  T.). — The  Grape,s  are  affected  by  shanking,  one 
of  the  most  perplexing  maladies  that  affect  Grapes,  and  still 
remains  the  most  obscure.  It  has  been  attributed  to  over-crop¬ 
ping,  thus  overstraining  the  power.s  of  the  Vine,  but  over-burdened 
Vines  may  not  show  signs  of  shrinking,  the  berries  being  only 
defective  in  colour.  Destruction  of  foliage  by  red  spider  or 
scorching  is  another  assumed  cause,  yet  the  scarcity  of  leaves  or 
elaborating  power  does  not  always  result  in  shanking.  Chills  or 
sudden  changes  of  temperature  is  another  of  the  suggestions  lead¬ 
ing  up  to  shanking,  but  there  may  be  rusted  Grapes  yet  no 
shanking.  Excessive  dryness  at  the  I’oots  has  also  been  saddled 
with  shanking,  but  our  experience  is  the  opposite.  The  real  cause  in 
our  practice  has  proyed  to  be  that  of  the  roots  getting  into  a  cold 
subsoil,  or  the  border  becoming  sodden  and  sour,  whereby  the 
young  rootlets  are  de.stroyed,  or  the  food  supplied  of  a  corrosiye 
nature.  This  may  be  accelerated  or  even  produced  by  exce.s.sive 
supplies  of  water 'or  too  abundant  applications  of  liquid  manure. 
Planting  in  borders  composed  of  too  close  or  too  rich  materials 
is  a  common  cause  of  shanking,  as  the  food  elements  are  too  crude 
and  not  sufficientlv  nitrified',  and  the  roots,  though  sometimes 
plentiful,  are  veiV  soft  and  spongy,  often  perishing  in  wet 
periods.  Indeed,  we  regard  an  unfavourable  rooting  medium 
and  a  sodden  and  sour  soil  as  the  real  cause  of  shanking.  In  this 
we  are  justified  by  the  fact  where  the  roots  are  at  fault,  as  they 
usually  are.  either  through  being  in  a  border  which  is  too  rich 
and  close,  or  toO'  wet  and  sour,  the  only  remedy  that  can  be 
adopted  is  to  take  the  Vines  up  carefully  and  renew  the  border, 
taking  care  to  introduce  a  greater  proportion  of  porous  materials 
than  before,  providing  good  drainage  with  underdrainSi^^to  carry 
off  superfluous  water,  these  having  proper  fall  and  outlet,  and 
then  replant  the  Vines,  keeping  the  roots  well  up  to  the  surface. 
The  recent  heavy  rains  Avould  no  doubt  further  the  .shanking,  but 
