284 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  24,  190?. 
The  Climbing  Varieties. 
{Concluded  from  page  174.) 
Nowadays  this  section  is  much  more  sought  after  than  formerly. 
Pergolas,  arches,  and  poles  are  so  much  more  in  evidence  in 
gardens  that  a  list  of  varieties  specially  adapted  for  this  purpose 
may  be  of  service  to  intending  planters. 
Crimson  Rambler  still  holds  the  place  as  the  most  gorgeous 
Rose  in  existence.  It  is  difficult  to  plant  this  Rose  out  of  place, 
except  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall,  where  it  does  not  succeed  owing 
to  red  spider  attacking  it.  Growing  over  a  rustic  arch,  up  a  pole 
backed  by  evergreen  shrubs,  or  in  front  of  a  specimen  golden 
Yew,  or  allowed  to  grow  in  a  natural  manner  on  grass,  are  the 
ideal  spots  for  this  Rose. 
Aglaia  is  a  disappointing  Rose  to  those  who  do  not  understand 
its  re<iuirements,  as  until  it  is  established  and  thinly  trained  it 
fails  to  flower  abundantly.  When  it  does,  its  appearance  is  simply 
magnificent,  smothered  as  it  is  by  a  full  crop  of  pale  yellow 
blossoms  in  clusters. 
Celine  Forestier  is  not  now  planted  as  much  as  its  merits 
deserve.  Given  a  south  wall  or  another  sunny  spot,  and  liberal 
treatment  at  the  roots,  then  abundance  of  its  light  yellow  blo.s- 
soms  would  be  forthcoming. 
Ards  Rover  is  seldom  seen ;  no  Rose  that  I  know  of  gives  more 
pleasing  blooms.  The  colour — crimson-shaded  maroon — is  pleas¬ 
ing,  while  it  has  a  perfume  all  its  own.  In  growth  it  is  vigorous, 
carrjung  large  deep  green  leaves.  Claire  Jacquier,  for  a  pergola, 
is  unequalled  where  a  mass  of  nankeen  yellow  is  required. 
Dorothy  Perkins  is  quite  an  autumn  flowering  Rose,  and  all 
the  more  valuable  in  consequence.  The  small  double  rose  pink 
flowers  are  produced  in- large  clusters,  most  sweetly  scented.  The 
growth  is  vigorous,  making  shoots  twelve  feet  long  in  a  season. 
This  Rose  is  said  to  be  of  American  origin,  and  has,  I  should  say, 
some  Wichuraiana  blood  in  it. 
Felicite  Perpetue,  for  freedom  of  growth  and  flower,  is  quite 
one  of  the  finest  of  climbing  Roses.  Planted  at  the  foot  of  a 
south  wall  and  allowed  to  ramble  away  at  will  is  an  ideal  way 
of  cultivating  this  variety.  Over  a  pergola,  tree,  stem,  pole,  or 
arch,  in  any  aspect,  this  Rose  is  a  gem.  The  small  flowers  are 
produced  in  huge  clusters,  and  are  white,  with  a  faint  flush  of 
pink. 
Mdme.  Alfred  Carriere  is  a  good  pillar  Rose,  giving  shapely 
blossoms^ — white  with  a  flush  of  yellow  at  the  base  of  the  petals. 
Noella  Nabonnand  has  rich,  velvety  crimson,  semi-double  flowers, 
most  beautiful  in  bud  and  gorgeous  when  fully  expanded.  Its 
growth  is  vigorous. 
P.syche  is  a  pale  rosy  pink,  suffused  at  jthe  base  of  the  petals 
with  salmon  and  yellow  ;  a  free  flowering  variety,  and  capitally 
adapted  for  a  pei'gola  or  pole. 
Queen  Alexandra  is  best  described  as  a  rose-coloured  form  of 
Crimson  Rambler,  from  which  it  is  a  seedling.  Reine  Olga  de 
Wurtemburg  is  semi-double  in  form,  having  vivid  red  blooms. 
The  Wallflower  is  a  desirable  Rose,  flowering  most  abundantly, 
rosy  lake  crimson  in  colour. 
Thalia,  or  White  Rambler,  is  a  pure  white  free  flowering 
variety  worthy  of  extended  cultivation.  Waltham  Climber  No.  3 
is  a  vigorous  growing  variety,  producing  large  deep  crimson 
blossoms  quite  freely. 
Paul’s  New  Tea  Rambler  promises  to  be  an  acquisition.  The 
colour  is  so  attractive — salmon  pink,  heavily  suffused  with  a 
coppery  sheen.  The  flowers  are  .small,  quite  shapely,  and  abun¬ 
dantly  produced. 
Climbing  Mrs.  Grant  is  a  sport  from  that  popular  Rose,  Mrs. 
W.  J.  Grant,  and  is  characteristic  of  that  variety  in  every  way 
except  growth.  The  blooms  are  most  shapely ;  colour,  salmon 
pink. 
England’s  Gloi-y  may  best  be  described  as  a  pink  Gloire  de 
Dijon.  Alister  Stella  Gray  is  a  glorious  pillar  Rose,  flowering 
quite  late,  rendering  it  all  the  more  valuable;  white  wdth  yellow 
centre. 
Lamarque,  where  a  southern  wall  can  be  given  it,  is  quite  one 
of  the  best  climbing  Roses.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  clusters. 
When  in  bud  the  colour  is  pure  white;  fully  expanded  blooms 
have  a  cream  or  yellow  centre. 
The  Garland  has  huge  bunches  of  small  semi-double  flowers, 
nankeen  and  pink,  which  change  to  white.  Fellenberg  has 
crimson  lake  flowers,  which  are  freely  produced  ;  a  good  variety  for 
a  pole  or  tree  stem. — E.  Molyneux. 
Rose,  Morning  Glow. 
Tills  we  saw  in  Win.  Paul  and  Sou’s  nursery  at  Waltham 
Cross  on  September  16,  giving  a  grand  account  of  itself.  The 
flowers  are  bright  rosy  crimson,  suffused  with  orange;  it  is 
dwarf,  vigorous,  and  very  floriferous. 
Cucumber  Culture  for  Market. 
{Conchided  from  page  103.) 
The  question  is  often  asked  rvhether  it  is  better  to  grow  two 
crops  in  one  season  or  let  one  planting  run  right  through.  A 
house  that  i.s  planted,  say,  the  middle  of  February,  or  after,  is 
better  let  run  through  the  season.  I  can  generally  get  more 
Cucumbers  with  one  planting  than  if  I  planted  twice.  I  find  it 
best  to  cut  all  the  old  wood  out  of  them  about  June;  and  by 
giving  them  a  good  thinning  out,  they  will  then  make  a  lot  of 
fresh  growth  with  a  bit  of  coaxing  and  feeding,  and  in  a  short 
time  be  practically  a  new  house,  and  will  throw  some  first-class 
fruit. 
In  giving  air  to  “  Cues  ”  the  temperature  of  the  external 
atmosphere  must  be  taken  into  consideration,  as  the  lower  this  is, 
the  greater  care  is  necessary  in  its  admission.  I  find  during 
March  and  April,  before  you  have  got  them  shaded,  it  is  better  to 
air  them  early,  say  between  eight  and  nine  o’clock  if  it  is  likely 
to  be  a  hot  day  :  just  a  crack  about  this  time ;  and  increase  a 
bit  later  in  the  morning.  This  saves  them  from  scorching,  which 
checks  them  considerably.  I  never  shade  until  I  am  obliged  to, 
and  then  only  just  .sufficient  to  stop  the  glare  of  the  sun.  After 
shading  you  should  reduce  the  air,  only  opening  the  ventilators 
after  the  thermometer  has  reached  85deg. 
Cucumbers  should  be  closed  up  early  in  the  afternoon,  always 
give  them  a  good  damp  down,  and  close  up  by  half-past  three 
o’clock.  In  applying  water  there  is  one  rule  to  be  observed,  and 
that  is  :  water  only  when  necessary,  applying  such  a  quantity  as 
will  soak  the  whole  mass  of  the  soil.  I  have  known  cases  where 
it  is  a  rule  to  water  every  morning  and  damp  down  a  stated 
number  of  times  per  day,  regardless  of  the  outside  weather  con¬ 
ditions;  and  the  plants  receive  a  soaking  at  the  roots  at  equally 
regular  intervals  with  a  supreme  indifference  as  to  whether  they 
require  it  or  not,  until  the  soil  becomes  sodden  and  sour,  resulting 
in  the  inevitable  decay  of  the  roots  and  consequent  inability  of 
the  plants  any  longer  to  produce  first  rate  fruit.  It  is  wise, 
therefore,  to  be  careful  in  the  application  of  water  to  the  roots 
of  the  plants,  for,  depend  upon  it,  more  failures  are  brought 
about  by  the  excessive  use  of  this  than  from  all  other  causes  put 
together.  It  is  better  to  closely  examine  the  beds  before  water¬ 
ing,  and  if  the  plants  rquire  watering,  perform  the  operation  ; 
but  a  good  deal  depends  upon  the  weather,  for  sometimes  two 
waterings  per  week  will  be  found  sufficient ;  other  times  they 
will  require  three  or  four  waterings. 
Disease  and  Pests. 
Cucumber  disease,  commonly  called  “gumming,”  sometimes 
attacks  the  plants,  and  there  is  no  cure  for  it.  The  origin  and 
cause  are  very  obscure.  There  are  two  things  which  I  believe  are 
most  likely  to  cause  it ;  they  are  bad  drainage,  and  watering 
with  the  water  at  too  low  a  temperature.  Should  anyone  be  so 
unlucky  as  to  get  disease  in  the  house,  the  best  plan  is  to  root- 
out  the  plants,  and  after  cleaning  the  house  thoroughly,  make 
a  fresh  start  with  new  plants  and  soil.  This  is  the  only  safe 
plan,  and  the  sole  one  I  can  recommend.  Green  fly  and  thrip  can 
both  be  exterminated  by  fumigating. 
Red  spider  is  one  of  the  worst  enemies  the  Cucumber  grower 
has  to  contend  with.  Dryness  at  the  roots,  and  where  atmo¬ 
sphere  is  not  kept  sufficiently  moist,  will  give  cause  for  the  pest. 
Tffiere  are  several  fumigators  on  the  market  that  guarantee  to 
kill,  but  I  have  failed  to  find  one  as  yet  wuthout  doing  serious 
harm  to  the  foliage.  My  plan  with  red  spider  is  to  apply  clean 
water  plentifully  through  a  fine-rosed  syringe,  morning  and 
evening.  This  is  repeated  for  about  a  week,  and  the  air  kept 
surcharged  with  moisture  will  clear  them  off.  Woodlice  do  injury 
in  some  cases,  but,  as  a  rule,  it  is  not  of  much  moment  unless 
the  insects  are  verj'  numerous,  in  which  case  they  must  be 
cleared  off  as  soon  as  possible.  The  best  plan  is  to  stop  the 
drainage  holes  in  some  flower  pots,  and  place  a  piece  of  boiled 
Parsnip  or  Potato  at  the  bottom  of  each,  and  then  fill  up  lightly 
with  some  moss  or  hay.  Take  up  the  pots  first  thing  in  the 
morning  and  empty  the  contents  into  a  pail  of  boiling  water. 
Follow  this  up,  and  you  will  soon  clear  them  out.  Wireworm 
being  occasionally  present  in  the  loam,  and  causing  much  injury 
to  the  plants  by  feeding  on  the  roots,  a  close  inspection  of  the 
soil  before  it  is  used  is  necessary.  If  on  examination  you  find  it 
contains  the  wireworms  you  must  either  break  the  soil  up  into 
small  pieces,  and  thoroughly  examine  it,  or  bake  the  soil  until 
it  is  too  hot  to  handle.  No  preparation  will  destroy  wireworm 
without  being  injurious  to  the  plants. 
Mildew  is  induced  by  a  dull,  stagnant  atmosphere.  Its  pre¬ 
vention  is  easier  than  its  cure,  as,  with  a  proper  amount  of  air, 
mildew  will  be  absent.  If  it  should  appear,  the  best  remedy  is 
to  get  some  flowers  of  sulphur  and  make  it  into  a  thin  paste ; 
then  spread  it  on  the  hot  water  pipes.  This,  with  a  fair  amount 
of  air,  will  soon  dry  off  the  mildew. 
Careful  selection  as  to  the  size  of  marketed  fruit  is  necessary, 
for,  while  small  fruit  is  small  priced,  that  which  is  large  and 
coarse  is  of  still  less  value.  “  Cues  ”  from  a  foot  to  18in  in  length 
are  the  most  remunerative,  as  they  sell  freely  at  a  fair  price; 
while  longer  ones,  if  in  fine  condition,  obtain  relatively  higher 
