September  24,  1903.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
297 
WOKK.fo^theWEEK., 
KLl 
Fruit  Forcing. 
MELONS  :  IN  HOUSES. — The  days  are.  now  shortening,  the 
nights  being  relatively  cold,  even  white  frost  occurring  in  the 
morning,  and  the  moisture  increa-ses,  therefore  it  is  neces,sary  to 
exercise  care  and  judgment  in  watering,  never  doing  it  unneces¬ 
sarily.  The  latest  plants,  however,  with  the  fruit  swelling  must 
not  be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  at  the  roots  as,  to  prejudice  the 
foliage.  Maintain  moderate  moisture  by  damping  thei  floors, 
walls,  and  sides  of  bed  every  morning  and  at  closing  time,  earth¬ 
ing  up  the  roots  as  required,  but  late  plants  require  less  soil  to 
grow  on  than  the  midseason  plants.  Remove  all  superfluous 
growths  as  they  appear,  and  maintain  a  temperature,  of  Godeg  to 
70deg  at  night,  5deg  less  on  cold  nights,  70deg  to  75deg  by  day, 
up  to  8odeg  or  OOdeg  with  sun.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  at  about 
80deg.  Fruit  ripening  will  be  better  for  a  little  extra  fire  heat 
and  a  circulation  of  air  constantly.  A  dry  condition  at  the  roots, 
but  not  so  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  flag,  accelerates  the  ripening 
process  and  enhances  the  quality  of  the  fruit. 
IN  PITS  AND  FRAMES. — In  those  heated  solely  by  ferment¬ 
ing  materials  no  water  will  be  required  after  this  time  unle.ss  the 
soil  is  dry  and  the  foliage  becomes  limp,  which  it  must  not  be 
allowed  to  do.  Any  water  supplied  should  be  so  as  not  to  wet 
the  foliage,  or  even  the  surface  of  the  bed  more  than  can  be  helped. 
Keep  the  frames  well  lined,  admitting  a  little  air  constantly, 
which,  with  the  fruit  raised  well  above  the  sui'face  of  the  bed, 
will  do  m,uch  to  accelerate  the  ripening,  prevent  decay,  and 
impart  flavour.  Any  fruit  it  is  wished  to  keep  for  a  time  should 
be  cut  when  it  is  changing  colour  with  a  good  portion  of 
.stem,  and  be  kept  in  a  dry,  airy  room,  or  if  wanted  ripe  at  once 
it  may  be  placed  in  a  warm,  airy  house  on  a  shelf  in  the.  full  sun. 
Melons  ripen  better  there  than  in  frames  or  pits  devoid  of  fire 
heat. 
VINES :  EARLY  FORCED  IN  POTS.-  This  is  the  most 
advisable  method  of  securing  a  supply  of  thin-skinned,  fresh,  ripe 
Grapes  early  in  spring,  which  are  a  necessity  in  some,  establish¬ 
ments.  The  best  varietie.s  we  have  tried  are  White  Frontignan. 
FosteFs  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court.  The 
great  evil  in  early  forcing  Vines  in  pots  or  anywhere  is  over¬ 
cropping,  the  berries  not  attaining  the  size  and  perfection  of 
colour  and  finish  so  essential  to  their  high  appreciation.  Where 
bottom  heat  can  be  given  to  start  them  they  will  show  their 
estimation  of  it,  and  the  soft  glow  of  moisture  given  off  by  the 
fermenting  material  in  breaking  freely.  It  is  de.sirable  to  stand 
the  pots  on  brick  pedestals,  placing  the  bricks  loose  and  so  high 
that  the  rims  are  slightly  raised  above  the  pot  edge,  the  arrange¬ 
ment  being  .such  that  the  pots  will  be  in  the  centre  of  the  bed, 
which  should  be  3^ft  or  4ft  wide,  and  as  much  in  depth.  Leaves 
(Oak,  Beech,  or  Spanish  Chestnut)  being  placed  in  to  fill  the  pot, 
a  gentle  warmth  will  be  afforded  the  Vines,  and  the  roots  will 
pass  rom  the  pots  into  the  leaves,  deriving  .support  for  the 
swelling  and  perfecting  of  the  Grapes. 
To  have  Grapes  ripe  at  the  end  of  March  or  early  in  April  the 
Vines  should  be  started  not  later  than  the  early  part  of  November, 
and  they  ought  to  be  placed  in  position  by  the  middle  of  October, 
so  that  they  may  have  about  a  fortnight  of  preparation  in  the 
way  of  admitting  air  freely  above  oOdeg,  this  being  secured  by 
artificial  means,  and  then  the  sap  will  become  quickened,  ready 
for  starting  the  Vines  away  strongly  when  forcing  proper  com¬ 
mences.  The  canes  must  be  depressed  to  a  horizontal  po.sition,  or 
lower,  to  secure  them  breaking  regularly.  Damp  the  canes  morn¬ 
ing  and  afternoon,  but  do  not  keep  them  con.stantly  dripping  with 
water.  In  an  atmosphere  kept  at  a  temperature  of  .50deg  to 
.'iSdeg  the  buds  will  soon  begin  to  swell,  then  gradually  raise  it 
day  and  night  to  GOdeg  to  Godeg  when  they  are  breaking,  allowing 
an  advance  of  lOdeg  to  lodeg  from  sun  heat.  The  temperature 
at  the  base  of  the  pots  ought  not  to  exceed  7.5deg,  and  it  is  better 
to  commence  with  it  at  Godeg  about  the  pots,  and  increa.se  the 
warmth  as  the  growth  advances.  Water  must  be  given  carefully 
at  first,  that  the  soil  be  kept  evenly  moist,  not  in  any  case  wet, 
as  this  retard.s  rather  than  forwards  root  formation',  and  it  is 
only  when  the  Vines  have  leaves  and  evaporate  largely  that 
plentiful  supplies  of  water  are  re<iuircd. 
MIDSEASON  HOUSES.  —  Black  Hamburgh  and  other 
descriptions  of  thin-skinned  black  Grapes  have  the  colour  taken 
out  of  them  by  hanging,  and  it  can  only  be  lessened  by  good 
spread  of  foliage,  or  drawing  a  double  thickness  of  herring  net 
over  the  roof  lights.  The  latter  is  the  preferable  plan,  as  lateral 
growths  interfere  Avith  light  to  the  principal  leaves,  and  the  fi’ee 
access  of  light  and  air  so  desirable  for  maturing  the  wood.  The 
Vines  from  which  the  Grapes  have  been  cut  may  have  the  growths 
cut  back  to  a  few  joints  above  the  pruning  buds,  finst  curtailing 
the  laterals,  and  then  cutting  back  the  main  growths,  this  insures 
the  buds  becoming  plumper,  whilst  the  freer  access  of  light  and 
air  affects  the  wood  favourably.  A  free  circidation  of  air  i.s 
necessary  to  expel  damp,  with  a  little,  constantly,  to  prcA-ent  the 
deposition  of  moisturei  on  the  berries.  Maintain  Avarmth  in  the 
hot-water  pipes  Avhen  the  external  air  is  cold  and  damp,  but  the 
Avood  being  ripe,  and  the  growth  matured,  it  Avill  suffice  to  main¬ 
tain  a  temperature  of  oOdeg,  and  the  cooler  by  day  the  house  is 
kept,  the  longer  the  Grapes  Avill  keep  plump.  Vines  that  have  not 
the  Avood  ripe  should  not  have  a  less  temperature  than  GOdeg,  and 
this,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  must  be  continued  until  there 
is  no  doubt  on  the  point.  Keep  the  laterals  Avell  in  check,  not 
alloAving  them  to  interfere  Avith  the  chief  groAvths.  The  border 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  too  dry,  or  the  Grapes  Avill  shrivel, 
therefore  afford  a  supply  of  Avater  Avhere  necessary,  ahvays  in  the 
morning  and  on  a  fine  da.y,  so  that  air  can  be  given  and  the  super¬ 
fluous  moisture  pass  off.  The  Avatering  Avill  not  do  the  least  harm, 
for  it  is  not  moisture  at  the  roots,  unle.ss  excessive,  that  cause.s 
Grapes  to  spot  and  decay,  but  a  confined,  stagnant  atmosphere. 
It  is  conden.sed  moisture  (may  be  imperceptible)  on  the  berries 
that  giA'es  moulds  their  opportunity,  Avhich  they  never  let  pass 
by,  but  groAv  and  multiply  under  the  favouring  circum.stances. 
Keep  Avell  ventilated,  and  have  no  leaks  in  the  roof,  then  all 
will  be  Avell  Avith  the  Grapes. — St.  Albans. 
Kitchen  Garden. 
LETTUCES.^ — If  a  good  supply  of  seedling  plants  are  at  hand, 
dAvarf  and  stocky  in  groAvth  through  being  groAvn  thinly,  the  re¬ 
sult  of  sowing  .sparingly  or  thinning  out  early,  these  may  safely 
be  transplanted  to  permanent  po.sitions.  The  best  places  for 
groAving  Avinter  Lettuce  are  undoubtedly  south  borders  Avhich  lie 
dry  and  sheltered.  The  soil  may  be  rich  and  capable  of  sustaining 
a  steady  growth,  but  Avhere  any  excess  of  moisture  naturally 
drains  aAvay.  Lift,  if  possible,  the  plants  with  small  balls  attached, 
and  plant  them  Gin  apart  in  roAvs  a  foot  asunder.  This  permits  of 
the  necessary  cultural  operations,  Aveeding  and  hoeing,  being 
carried  out  with  ease.  W^here  natural  shelter  for  the  plants 
cannot  be  commanded  it  Avill  probably  be  possible  to  extemporise 
a  temporary  .shelter,  for  a  portion  at  least,  with  moveable  lights. 
Too  close  confinement  Avill  cau.se  damping.  Some  may  be 
planted  in  frames,  but  the  fullest  exposure  should  be 
giA’en  until  it  is  really  necessary  to  protect.  In  addition 
to  planting  a  good  supply  of  .strong  seedlings,  some 
plants  of  larger  groAAth  and  commencing  to  heart  may  be  lifted 
Avith  a  liberal  quantity  of  roots  and  soil,  and  be  eistablished  in 
frames,  the  lights  of  which  ought  not  to  be  placed  over  them 
except  during  severe  frosts  or  heaA^y  rains.  These  Avill  come  in 
useful  for  early  Avinter  use.  Plants  standing  in  seed  beds  may 
Avith  great  advantage  be  thinned,  as  if  croAvded  they  will  certainly 
succumb  to  damp  and  frost. 
CAULIFLOWERS. — The  autumn  CaulifloAvers  are  turning  in 
noAv,  and  need  protection.  This  may  be  afforded  to  the  heads  by 
laying  over  them  a  leaf,  Avhich  preA'ents  discolouration.  Cater¬ 
pillars  may  be  troublesome,  and  if  so  ought  to  be  searched  for 
and  destroyed.  Seedlings  from  a  soAving  made  last  month  will 
be  of  sufficient  size  to  prick  out,  either  on  a  sheltered  border  or  in 
a  frame.  The  latter  offers  the  advantage  of  giving  slight  pro¬ 
tection  from  frost  and  damp  in  Avinter. 
TURNIPS. — Thinning  out  must  be  continued  until  the  plants 
stand  'at  a  sufficiently  Avide  distance  apart  for  developing  roots 
satisfactorily.  Those  Avhich  have  adAunced  to  a  useable  size  mu,st 
be  kept  free  of  Aveeds  and  useless  leaves.  Later  some  of  the 
roots  may  be  taken  up  and  stored  for  use  in  winter  Avhen  roots  in 
the  open  ground  cannot  be  obtained.  To  encourage  the  groAvth 
of  young  seedlings  dust  lightly  Avith  soot  and  hoe  in.  Hoe  also 
to  keep  doAvn  Aveeds,  and  to  break  the  caked  surface  of  the  soil 
Avhen  it  has  dried  after  rain. 
POTATOES. — Diseased  crops  are,  unfortunately,  prevalent 
this  season,  and  the  bulk  of  varieties  should  be  lifted  as  soon  as 
possible,  carefully  examining  them  and  picking  out  all  those 
affected,  Avhich  it  is  best  to  burn.  All  tubers  apparently  clean 
should  be  placed  under  cover  to  dry  thoroughly,  laying  them  at 
present  thinly,  and  excluding  light,  except  from  those  intended 
for  seed.  In  a  feAv  Aveeks  another  examination  may  be  made,  after 
AA’hich  store  the  sound  tubers  in  a  frost-proof  place,  but  cool  and 
thoroughly  dry.  After  lifting  a  crop,  collect  and  destroy  the 
haulms  bv  burning.  ,  ,,  ,  n  , 
ONIONS. _ The  soAving  of  Onions  made  last  month  should  need 
little  if  any  thinning,  but  the  removal  of  weeds  from  among  the 
seedlings  ought  to  be  effected  ea,rly  before  they  become  strongly 
rooted.  ...  -.i 
SPIXACH. — Thinning  out  and  weeding  is  necessa.ry  Avith  tho 
crop  of  w'inter  Spinach.  The  final  thinning  should  be  made  to  the 
extent  of  leaving  the  plants  8in  apart.  Frequent  hoeing  betAveen 
tiie  rows  is  of  advantage  in  promoting  a  healthy  groAvth. 
TOMATOES. — Outdoor  plants  may  be  encouraged  to  ripen 
their  fruit  more  quickly  if  lights  can  be  set  up  before  them.  Fruits 
commencing  to  colour  Avill  cpiickly  ripen  if  gathered  and  placed  on 
a  shelf  in  a  AAarm  house. — East  Kent. 
