630 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
December  10,  1903. 
Laella  anceps  Oweniana. 
Tliis  received  A.M.,  R.H.S.,  1902.  The  sepals  and  petals  are 
brilliant  rose,  paler  at  base,  with  white  patches.  Lip,  rich  magenta, 
the  yellowish  throat  being  streaked  with  the  same  colour.  It  was 
shown  by  Mr.  Owen,  Selwood,  Rotherham. 
Vanda  crlstata  and  V.  Denlsoniana, 
In  Vanda  eristata  we  have  a  very  peculiar  species,  the  construction 
of  the  lip  being  very  singular.  It  is  triangular  with  a  three-lobed  tip, 
yellow,  with  blood-red  streaks.  The  outer  segments  are  narrow  and 
greenish-yellow.  It  thrives  with  V.  emrulea.  A  chaste  and  lovely 
plant  is  V.  Denisoniana,  a  stout  grower,  bearing  pure  white  blossoms, 
which  is  rather  rare  in  Vandas.  It  is  a  native  of  high  altitudes  on  the 
Arraean  Mountains,  and  enjoys  a  cool,  moist  regime  all  the  year 
round. 
Vanda  Hookeriana 
is  a  tall,  scrambling  species,  with  cylindrical  leaves  and  short  spike  of 
flower.  These  are  very  beautiful ;  the  sepals  and  petals  whitish,  with 
spots  of  purple ;  the  lip  purple,  with  crowded  spots  of  a  deeper  hue. 
No  one  should  attempt  the  culture  of  this  species  who  has  not  ample 
heat  at  command.  It  grows  in  sweltering  heat  and  moisture,  and 
except  for  a  week  or  two  after  being  planted  should  be  fully  exposed 
to  the  sun’s  rays.  In  many  collections  it  is  the  custom  to  cut  the 
stems  into  lengths,  and  plant  these  in  beds  of  sphagnum  in  a  house 
fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  A  luxuriant  growth  and  abundant  supply  of 
flower  is  thereby  assured. — B.  G. 
Laelia  anceps. 
Tha  flowering  period  of  this,  the  most  beautiful  of  winter  blooming 
Lselias,  is  at  hand,  and  although  the  gi’owing  season  has  not  been  what 
one  would  call  favourable  to  its  success,  yet  we  are  assured  of  a  good 
supply  of  blooms.  Those  who,  perchance,  live  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  foggy  towns  are  generally  precluded  from  growing  it,  or  give  up  the 
idea  altogether,  because  of  the  risk  incun-ed  of  losing  the  bloom  by  a 
visitation  of  the  fog  fiend.  Yet  I  think  it  is  worth  all  the  risk,  for 
what  is  more  beautiful  or  useful  at  this  time  of  year  than  a  display  of 
Lfelia  anceps  in  bloom  ?  Those  who  have  the  good  fortune  to  live  in 
rural  districts  and  who  grow  them  in  quantity  know  full  Avell  their 
value.  There  is  everything  to  recommend  them  in  all  collections ;  the 
flowers  will  last  from  a  month  to  six  weeks  in  beauty ;  we  get  a  variety 
of  colours,  ranging  from  deep  purple  to  pure  white ;  they  have  fail- 
size  ;  and,  lastly,  they  are  by  no  means  difficult  plants  to  grow 
successfully. 
Where  a  large  quantity  are  grown,  a  house,  or  part  of  it,  is 
generally  devoted  to  them.  In  the  former  ease  the  necessary  cultural 
details  can  be  applied  to  better  advantage.  There  are  several  im¬ 
portant  cultural  details  to  be  remembered  attending  their  success,  but 
the  difficulty  is  to  know  when  and  how  to  pi’ovide  these  various  con¬ 
ditions  to  advantage.  Therefore  a  few  remarks  on  the  most  essential 
points  will  not  be  out  of  place. 
Firstly,  they  r^qiiife  plbhly  of  light.  This  is  necessary  all  the  year 
round,  whilst  in  summer  only  enough  shade  is  required  to  prevent  the 
sun  burning  the  foliage.  Secondly,  plenty  of  fresh  air.  This  also  at 
all  times  of  the  year,  night  and  day,  less,  of  course,  in  cold,  windy 
weather.  In  summer,  however,  if  occupying  a  house  by  themselves 
give  more  at  night  than  day.  Thirdly,  watering.  W’^ater  must  be  given 
sparingly  when  the  plants  start  into  growth,  increasing  the  quantity 
as  the  growth  advances  and  the  bulb  begins  to  show. 
As  the  spikes  begin  to  push  rapidly  a  good  supply  is  required,  and 
on  no  consideration  should  they  be  allowed  to  shrivel  at  any  time.  In 
summer,  cn  warm  afternoons,  we  give  our  plants  a  thorough  spray 
overhead,  the  results  of  which  are  always  beneficial.  When  the 
flowering  period  is  past,  and  until  growth  commences,  they  should  be 
given  a  rest  in  a  minimum  winter  temperature  of  55deg,  with¬ 
holding  water  so  long  as  the  pseudo-bulbs  remain  plump.  AVhen  in 
flower,  however,  a  temperature  of  60deg  will  be  found  the  most 
suitable. 
The  time  for  repotting  must  be  decided  by  each  grower,  but  un¬ 
doubtedly  the  best  time  is  when  root  action  takes  place,  and  not 
before.  A  suitable  compost  will  be  found  in  good  fibrous  peat  and 
sphagnum  moss,  using  Bracken  rhizomes  for  drainage  instead  of 
crocks.  Perforated  pans  are  preferable  to  baskets,  these  being  much 
neater  and  more  easily  potted  when  occasion  demands.  Overgrown 
specimens  should  have  their  projecting  leads  cut  off  with  three  or  four 
bulbs  attached,  thus  leaving  the  original  plant  in  its  receptacle  to 
develop  growths  from  dormant  buds,  which,  if  in  good  condition,  does 
not  take  long  to  accomplish,  as  very  often  strong  leads  will  form  the 
first  year  and  produce  flower  spikes.  This  is  a  very  successful  way 
of  increasing  one’s  stock  of  good  varieties.  With  the  severed  pieces 
another  specimen  can  be  made  up,  arranging  the  growing  points 
inwards,  so  that  disturbance  will  not  be  again  necessary  for  a  few 
years. 
Place  pieces  of  charcoal  and  turfy  peat  firmly  amongst  the  roots, 
finishing  off  by  inserting  alternately  lumps  of  peat  and  clumps  of 
picked  heads  of  sphagnum  moss.  Plants  that  have  to  be  repotted 
require  little  water  at  the  roots  for  some  time  afterwards,  beyond  an 
occasional  spray  overhead  on  bright  days.  Amongst  the  best  known 
white  varieties  may  be  mentioned :  L.  a.  Schroderiana,  L.  a.  Sanderiana, 
L.  a.  Bull’s  alba,  L.  a.  Hilli,  L.  a.  Williamsi,  L.  a.  Stella,  L.  a.  Holli- 
dayana,  L.  a.  Dawsoni ;  and  among  the  many  dark  forms,  L.  a. 
Chamberlainiana,  L.  a.  Crawshayana,  L.  a.  Amesice,  L.  a.  Pereivaliana, 
L.  a.  Measuresiana,  L.  a.  Ballentineana  and  L.  a.  Protheroeiana. — 
J.  Mackay,  Highbury. 
Cultural  Notes;  Dendroblums  and  Odontoglossums. 
The  autumn  flowering  Odontoglossums  of  the  grande  and  Insleayi 
types  have  sometimes  a  little  lee-Avay  to  inake  up  with  their  growth 
after  the  flowers  are  past,  and  where  this  is  necessary  a  little  extra 
warmth  and  moisture  should  be  allowed.  Sometimes,  too,  the  roots 
may  be  moving,  and  a  little  top-dressing  of  the  compost  may  be 
needed.  But  after  the  growth  is  pi’opei'ly  made  up,  these  Odonto¬ 
glossums  like  a  much  more  decided  period  of  rest  than  '\hose  of  the 
crispum  and  similar  types.  The  drying  of  the  roots  must  not  ga 
to  the  length  of  shrivelling  the  pseudo-bulbs,  or  weakness  will  be 
caused. 
O.  citrosmum,  on  the  other  hand,  has  to  be  thoroughly  dried  to 
ensiu’e  its  flowering,  and  any  shrivelling  of  the  pseudo-bulbs  that  takes 
place  in  winter  is  soon  picked  up  again  in  spring,  when  the  moisture 
supply  is  again  freely  given.  There  are  many  of  the  short-bulbed 
sections,  such  as  O.  Cervantesi,  O.  Rossi,  and  even  O.  naevium,  that 
must  not  be  dried  although  at  rest,  for  the  small  pseudo-bulbs  cannot 
stand  the  strain,  while  O.  luteo-purpureum,  O.  Halli,  O.  triumphans, 
O.  Pescatorei,  O.  Andersonianum,  and  O.  eirrhosum  will,  many  of 
them,  be  both  growing  and  rooting  now,  and  consequently  must  be 
kept  moist. 
The  earlier  batch  of  Dendrobiums  will  usually  contain  specimens  of 
I),  aureum,  D.  nobile  and  the  hybrids,  having  one  or  both  of  these  well- 
known  species  as  parents.  Avoid  over-moistening,  in  the  atmosphere 
more  especially,  as  this  will  lead  to  many  of  the  nodes  producing 
growths  instead  of  flowers.  D.  nobile,  D.  crassinode,  D.  Wardianum 
and  D.  Endocharis  are  especially  prone  to  this  mishap,  and  many 
plants  have  been  spoilt  for  the  season  by  these  means.  With  the  later 
plants  there  is  not  so  much  danger,  though  even  here  a  dry,  warm  air, 
with  hardly  any  root  moisture,  is  essential. 
D.  mosehatum  rarely  ripens  its  growth  of  the  present  year 
thoroughly ;  but  all  the  same  a  rest  is  needed  by  the  older  stems  if  a 
good  flowering  return  is  expected.  A  cool  vinery,  or  some  similar 
structure  where  the  specimens  can  obtain  plenty  of  light,  suits  them 
now.  It  may  be  noted  here  that  the  stems  of  this  fine  Dendrobium  go 
on  producing  flowers  year  after  year  until  exhausted,  so  that  they 
should  not  be  removed.  D.  Dalhousianum  is  like  it  in  the  latter 
respect,  but  is  more  regular  in  its  routine  of  growth,  and  usually 
finishes  up  its  stems  annually.  D.  formosum  must  be  kept  dry  and 
warm,  but  as  the  leaves  usually  remain  on  through  the  winter,  sufficient 
moisture  to  keep  them  fresh  is  necessary. — H.  R.  R. 
- - 
Book  Notices. 
The  Journal  of  the  Koyal  Horticultural  Society. 
The  October  volume  lies  before  us.  It  is  a  mine  of  pressing 
information  on  many  aspects  of  scientific  and  practical  garden¬ 
ing.  One  feature  of  these  Journals  of  the  R.H.S.  is  the  up-to- 
dateness  of  the  matter  and  the  subjects  ;  the  writers,  too,  are 
leaders  in  science  and  in  horticulture.  Besides  the  interesting 
notices  about  the  hall  and  the  garden — notices  that  are  of  the 
keenest  interest  in  these  passing  days — and  the  abstracts  from 
current  periodicals  (one  of  the  best  sections  of  the  R.H.S. 
Journal),  there  are  the  following  papers.  Fungoid  pests  of  the 
garden,  in  which  Dr.  M.  C.  Cooke  deals  with  over  eighty  diseases 
of  fruits,  alphabetically  arranged.  Besides  woodcuts  and  half¬ 
tone  illustrations,  these  diseases  have  three  coloured  plates,  on 
which  are  figured  forty-two  subjects.  We  think  a  little  more 
space  between  each  might  be  good,  or  divisional  lines  might  be 
devised.  After  this  comes  a  paper  on  the  use  of  ether  and 
chloroform  for  forcing  shrubs,  which  brings  the  discoveries  and 
experiments  with  these  anaesthetics  up  to  date. 
There  is  a  growing  knowdedge  and  interest  in  the  lesser-known 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  both  Mr.  Nicholson’s  paper  and  that  by 
Mr.  James  H.  Yeitch  (the  latter  describing  new  Chinese  tree.s 
and  shrubs)  will  be  studied  widely.  Mr.  Veitch’s  paper,  which 
is  well  illustrated,  is  a  grand  contribution  to  the  “Journal” 
(R.H.S.).  Prof.  G.  Henslow  goes  into  Darwin’s  natural  selection 
V.  adaptation,  in  his  usual  able  and  attractive  style;  while,  in 
his  paper,  “The  Blue  Nymphseas,”  Mr.  J.  Hudson,  of  Gunners- 
bury  House  Garden,  gives  the  gardener  some  cultural  hints. 
Every  paper  is  of  high  value.  We  have  read  Mr.  Bentley’s 
remarks  on  the  Show  Tulip  with  eagerness,  but  alas!  the  Show 
