December  10,  1903.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
547 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editoe,”12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.C.  It  is  reqnested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seokijig  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifi¬ 
able  trouble  and  expense.  In  naming  plants  we  only  undertake 
to  name  species,  or  well-marked  varieties,  and  only  six  on  any 
one  occasion.  Florists’  flowers  we  do  not  name. 
CATALPA  WOOD  (H.).— The  wood  of  tlie  Catalpas  is  very 
light,  but  of  a  pleasing  greyish-white  colour,  and  has  a  fine 
texture.  It  requires  to  be  thoroughly  seasonied,  and  is  then 
reputed  to  be  durable,  taking  a  brilliant  polish.  No  doubt  you 
might  have  many  articles  of  domestic  utility  constructed  from 
the  tree  when  the  wood  is  properly  seasoned. 
GRAFTING  VINES  (A  Working  Gardener). — The  Grape  sent 
is  the  Black  Morocco,  which  is  a  good  lato  Grape,  requiring  .stove 
heat  to  ripen  it  perfectly,  and  special  care  in  setting  its  berries, 
a  globule  of  liquid  fre<]uently  forming  on  the  stigma  and  im¬ 
peding  fertilisation.  This  moisture  should  be  removed  by  gentle 
agitation,  so  that  the  pollen  may  come  in  contact  with  the 
stigma.  You  may  graft  or  inarch  any  of  the  Vines  you  name. 
DESTROYING  WEEDS  ON  GRAVEL  WALK  (G.  Foster).— 
Dissolve  lib  of  powdered  arsenic  in  three  gallons  of  cold  water, 
stirring  until  it  boils,  then  add  seven  gallons  of  cold  water  and 
2Ibs  of  crushed  soda.  Stir  the  whole  well  whilst  boiling,  and 
with  a  rose  watering-jxit  apply  to  the  walks  in  dry  weather  from 
March  to  May.  An  inclining  board  should  be  placed  .so  as  to 
keep  the  hot  liquid  from  the  grass  or  Box  edgings.  The  quantity 
named  is  .sufficient  for  25  square  yards.  Carbolic  acid  has  been 
recommended  to  our  correspondent  for  the  purpose.  We  should 
be  obliged  by  particulars  as  to  the  quantity  and  mode  of 
apiilication. 
BEGONIAS  FOR  WINTER  (O.  S.).— All  the  .species  and 
varieties  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  may  be  inserted  at 
any  time  when  a  brisk  bottom  and  top  heat,  say  of  75deg  to 
SOdeg,  can  be  maintained.  The  precise/  time  for  insertion  nimst 
be  determined  by  the  .size  of  plant.s  that  you  desire.  If  you 
wi.sh  to  have  large  specimens,  and  have  heated  structures  for 
growing  the  plants,  you  may  insert  the  cuttings  during  February 
and  March.  If  smaller  plants  are  coveted,  May  and  Junoi  will 
be  soon  enough  for  propagating,  and  a  cool  frame  kepti  closs'  will 
be  suitable  for  the  plants  during  the  .summer.  An  ordinary 
mixture  of  loam,  loaf  soil,  decayed  manure,  and  sand,  is  suitable 
for  growing  these  plants.  The  old  plants  can  either  be  thrown 
away  or  repotted  after  they  have  flowereol.  Young  plants  are 
usually  thei  most  satisfactory. 
PEAR  TREES  ENHEALTHY  (Amo.s). — Judging  from  the 
spur  sent  we  suspect  the  cause  of  the  unhealthiness  of  your  trees 
to  be  ungenial  and  po.ssibly  water-logged  soil.  If  the  soil  is  wet 
drain  it  thoroughly  to  a  depth  of  3ft,  having  a  clear  outlet  for 
the  water.  If  the  .subsoil  is  not  wet,  then  the  condition  of  your 
trees  is  attributable  to  poverty  of  the  soil.  The  remedy  in  thi.s 
case  is  to  remove  the  surface  soil,  just  bareing  the  roots,  and 
cover  them  with  tlie  best  soil  you  can  obtain,  and  over  the  .soil 
place  a  good  covering  of  rich  manure.  Limewash  the  tree.s,  or, 
what  is  equivalent,  dust  them  with  dry  lime  when  the  branches 
are  wet.  If  blossom  buds  predominate  over  wood  buds  remove 
some  of  the  former,  especially  taking  off  any  at  the  tips  of  the 
branches.  Your  aim  must  be  to  induce  clean  healthy  young 
.shoots,  not  permitting  the  trees  to  blo.ssom  profusely,  and  your 
trees  will  regain  their  vigour. 
FORCING  LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY  (E.  D.  Lyon).— If  you 
require  Lilies  of  the  Valley  early,  the  crowns  are  best  forcecl  in 
bottom  heat.  A  bed  of  leaves  about  3ft  high  is  usually  required, 
and  in  this  the  pots  are  placed,  covering  with  about  .six  inches  of 
dry  loose  leaves.  It  is  much  better  if  a  frame  and  lights  be 
placed  upon  the  leaves,  which  throw  off  rains  and  maintain  a 
more  eejuable  temperature :  besides,  it  may  be  necessary  in 
severe  weather  to  line  the  sides  of  the  frame  and  bed  should  the 
heat  decline,  which  ought  not  to  be  less  than  75deg,  nor  exceed 
90deg.  When  the  flowers  have  grown  4in  to  Gin  above  the  pots 
the  covering  should  be  removed,  and  the  plants  be  placed  in  a 
light  position  in  a  stove,  where  they  expand  and  attain  colour. 
Wo  have  seen  them  .successfully  forced  by  placing  a  rough  frame 
of  boards  around  the  pots,  and  over  that  some  boards  .so  as  to 
form  a  cover,  leaving  G  to  8  inches  of  space  from  the  surface  of 
the  pots  to  the  boards,  covering  with  leaves  or  litter  about  a 
foot  to  15  inches  deep,  removing  the  Lilies  to  a  warm  house  when 
the  flower  spikes  were  G  inches  long. 
PROPAGATING  EPACRISES,  HEATHS  AND  CAMELLIAS 
(W.  P.). — Epacrises  and  Ericas  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of 
about  l.j  to  2  inches  in  length.  Thc'  tips  of  the  shoots  when  of 
that  length  are  inserted  in  pots  half  filled  with  drainage',  some 
rough  peat  placed  over  it,  the  pot  filled  to  within  half  an  inch 
of  the  rim  with  fine  sandy  peat,  and  the  remainder  with  .silver 
sand  pressed  firmly;  water  thoroughly,  and  a  few  hours  aftei'- 
wards  put  in  the  cuttings,  and  cover  them  with  a  bell-glass, 
placing  in  a  cold  pit  or  frame,  shading  from  sun.  Camellias  are 
increased  by  grafting  upon  stock  of  the  single  kind.  Cuttings 
for  .stocks  require  tO'  be  of  the  ripe  wood,  in.serted  firmly  in  sand, 
kept  in  a  close  frame  for  a  month  or  .«ix  weeks,  and  then  placed 
in  a  gentle  bottom  heat.  The  plants  you  name  can  be  bought 
from  the  trade  growers  more  cheaply  than  thej’  can  be  propa¬ 
gated  in  private  gardens. 
MAKING  AN  ASPARAGFS  BED  (A.  C.).— This  is  be^t 
done  at  the  end  of  March  or  early  in  April,  being  the  best  timo 
also  for  planting.  If  the  ground  is  common  loam  and  well 
drained,  or  having  a  sub.soil  of  gravel  or  chalk,  nothing  more  is 
needed  than  to  trench  the  space  intended  for  the  bed,  and  to 
mix  with  the  soil  as  much  rich  thoroughly  decayed  dung  as  can 
be  worked  in.  Have  only  two  rows  of  plants  in  each  bed,  as 
this  enables  them  to  be  cultivated  and  cut  from  easily.  Set  the 
rows  out  2ft  apart,  stretching  the  line  and  drawing  with  a  lioo 
a  drill  on  each  side  of  it  sufficiently  deep  for  the  roots  to  bo 
extended  on  each  side  of  the  little  ridge  which  is  thus  left 
between  the  two  drills,  and  on  which  ridge  the  plants  are  placed. 
Their  roots  being  equally  divided  on  each  side,  nothing  more  is 
required  than  filling  up  the  drills  with  a  hoe  or  rake.  The  plants 
should  he  chosen  when  they  have  .started  intO'  growth  2  or  3 
inches;  they  should  be  forked  out  carefully  and  their  roots  not 
allowed  to*  get  dry  after  being  taken  up.  No  heads  .should  be 
cut  the  fir.st  year  after  planting,  and  very  few  the  second. 
NAMES  OF  FRUITS. — Correspondents  whose  queries  are  un¬ 
answered  in  the  present  issue  are  respectfully  requested  to  consult  the 
following  number.  (F.  T.). — 1,  Cox’s  Pomona  ;  2,  Bismarck  ;  3, 
Allington  Pippin. 
NAMES  OP  PLANTS.  —  Correspondents  whose  queries  are 
unansicered  in  the  vresent  issue  are  respectfully  requested  to  consttU 
the  following  number,  (.1.  L.). — 1,  Browallia  speciosa  ;  2,  Costns 
ignei ;  3,  Begonia  sanguinea.  (J.  T.). — 1,  Cestrum  (Habrothamnus) 
aurantiaeum  ;  2,  Grevillea  Thelemanniana ;  4,  Oncidinm  incinwinn. 
(F.,  S.  Hants). — 1,  Araucaria  Bidwclli. 
Thorn  Hedges. 
The  common  White  Thorn  (Crataegus  Oxyacantha)  thrives  so 
well  in  this  country  and  makes  .such  an  excellent  fence  when  it 
is  properly  tended,  that  it  is  without  doubt  the  best  form  of 
enclosure  where  low  cost  and  durability  are  to  be  combined.  It 
grows  well  on  all  good  and  deep  soils,  but  fails  on  very  thin  and 
stony,  or  very  dry,  sandy  soils.  It  has  been  an  old  axiom  amongst 
farmers  that  a  good  Thorn  hedge  is  a  sure  sign  that  the  land  is 
worthy  of  good  cultivation,  and  anyone  going  over  a  prospective 
holding  should  bear  this  fact  in  mind,  and  beware  of  the  farm 
the  fences  of  which  are  declared  by  the  agent  to  have  been 
neglected,  but  which  may  really  be  a  number  of  danger  signals 
to  those  who  can  see  them.  We  do  not  suggest  that  farmers  are 
never  negligent  about  their  hedges.  On  the  contrary,  such  is 
often  the  case ;  and  for  want  of  timely  cutting  down,  fences 
adjoining  pastures  are  allowed  to  become  gappy,  and  ultimately 
expensive  to  keep  in  an  effective  condition.  Tbe  excuse  is  that 
the  shelter  could  not  be  spared.  That  may  have  been  true,  but 
there  could  be  no  reason  why  a  portion  could  not  have  been 
taken  off,  and  the  remainder  at  intervals.  These  big,  old  hedges 
are  useful  as  shade  when  they  are  on  the  south  or  wost  side  of  a 
pasture,  but  they  give  but  little  shelter  from  the  wind  when  they 
are  on  the  north  or  east,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  lower 
portion  has  no  foliage  upon  it  to  break  off  the  cold  w'inds. 
It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  a  Thorn  fence,  to  be  effective, 
should  be  widest  at  the  bottom  and  taper  to  the  top,  and  this 
shape  is  more  easily  attained  when  the  Thorn  plant  has  been 
planted  in  double  rows,  at  least  two  feet  from  each  other.  Three 
feet  of  space  between  the  rows  may  not  be  at  all  too  much  to 
allow  where  strong  hedges  to  turn  bullocks  and  horses  are 
